Fri, 13th Mar, 2026 (part2) Thornbury-Aparima Bridge freedom camp, Thornbury to Freedom campground, Lumsden, NZ (Clifden, Mataura, Gore & Lumsden)

Right onto Clifden Highway heading up the left side of the Waiau River. Green fields and cows again.

Onto Clifden Bridge across the Waiau River - further upstream. The suspension bridge we will walk across shortly.

Turned off and back a bit to the car park for the suspension bridge. Freedom campsite too. A chap was whipper-snippering etc and his friend was at the vehicle so I asked about the helicopter we saw whizzing around. It is spraying pastures with sulphate etc. The friend was the chap’s father and he told us about growing up around here and the limestone caves we were going to look at. Take a torch and be prepared for wet feet. I found more information on the board nearby.

Nice photo of Lake Hauroko, NZ’s deepest lake.

Along the road and over the bridge. Amazing engineering. Another info board. Downstream to road bridge and then upstream.

Didn’t see any trout in the very clear water.

The chopper is back.

Bit of fluffy stuff and orange algae but it is still very solid.

Reached the other end. Nice curved limestone and pine tree.

Zoomed further upstream.

Back across and down some steps to the picnic area. Found some more info about the Waiau River and the hydro power scheme as it comes down from Lake Te Anau and Lake Manapouri.

Nice bridge photo spot too.

Back onto the main road then left turn to find the limestone Clifden Caves. Small parking area opposite so we turned around and parked behind another vehicle. Three people had just come out and heading back to their car so we asked what it was like. They said it was hard going and you get wet. They turned around at a big pool - took them one and a half hours for that. We decided to have a look at least.

Got our headlamps and climbed over the fence steps and read the information. We don’t have helmets and crawling doesn’t sound like fun.

We went around to the entrance to have a look. We bent and then crawled along. 

Deciding it probably isn’t our thing we turned around at No. 3 chamber - number marked on wall, as the next bit is a narrow crawl down. Looking back out to the entrance. It was interesting but we have seen better.

Continued on a country road to Ohai - heading to the east. Limestone cliffs above the farms. Daisies by the road edge. Pretty drive.

Into Ohai - houses each side of the railway line and road. Pulled off at a playground with a long machine to have lunch. This area has coal mining.

Big seat but it doesn’t look very comfortable.

Continued on through pine plantations to Nightcaps which is a bigger town than Ohai. Couldn’t find any history boards though.

Following the back roads we headed towards Winton (yes another one, Victoria & Qld have one too). Flatter country with green pastures.

Through Wreys Bush then just before Otautau we turned off and headed across the wide area of Aparima River, upstream from where we camped beside last night.

Continued on through the farms then across the Oreti River (upstream from Invercargill) as we near Winton, est 1861.

Turned off before entering the township to continue east on the back roads. Through Browns - another village. Lots of freedom camping throughout this area. Another NZ word - Where livestock go under the road is called a ‘subway’ - not sure what we call it.

Back into low hills covered in pastures. Spotted cornfields near another village called Hedgehope. Nice view from a low hill.

Stopped at hedge-lined park with gated entrance, Glencoe - rather grand. In the middle of the grassy paddock is the Glencoe Monument, 1692 massacre in Scotland. Will have to check that out when we go through there on my UK tour.

Another nice view as we continue along.

Left onto Main Street (SH1) into Mataura. Turned off to cross over the Matarua River. Rocky edges and big buildings further along.

Drove down a bit and spotted an open car park with information - the Maori story. Old photo of the falls before they were changed when the paper mill was built. No info about the paper mill so I googled it - It was established in the mid 1870s and was NZ’s longest-running pulp and paper mill. It used the Matarua Falls to provide cheap power. There was a flour mill too on the west bank. After it ceased operation the buildings became a storage place for toxic products from the Tiwai Point Aluminium Smelter in the late 2010s. After the close call of the 2020 floods it was decided to remove the products from beside the river.

Walked down to the water’s edge. View downstream with the bridge we drove over. All rock edges along here. Upstream to the old flour mill and the waterfall at the end.

We drove along the old paper mill buildings to see if we there was an access track to the falls but we couldn’t find one.

Turned back and over the bridge - view downstream.

Pulled into a park beside the water. Walked back over the solid bridge for another view upstream. You can see a weir above the waterfall area.

Onto the SH1 through town and continued northward with river on our right. A few drops of rain from a big black cloud over us.

Into Gore - ‘World’s Capital of Brown Trout Fishing’. Geoff & Virginia lived here at one stage.

Checked out the Hokonui Moonshine Museum ($10 each). We have been watching the TV series, Outlander which is based around the Battle of Culloden in Scotland which is mentioned here. I have Scottish heritage so this is all very interesting. Lots of information and a great video of Mary’s story.

Of course there were all the anti-alcohol people too - info set in a ‘church’ room.

Other rooms were like hotels etc. Wonderful displays.

Next section was scenes of different events - very well done.

Next section about the different people of the area.

Last was a big still then the lady offered us a ‘wee’ taste of different flavours of Whisky. The honey one was the best. Great displays, well worth the visit.

It had rained while we were inside but the sun is out again now. Back through town to find some diesel as the prices are still climbing. Cheapest is $2.34/l - some places are 20 cents higher and we still have the diesel tax to pay at the end!

Another black cloud came over and dropped rain as we had a late cuppa by a park.

Continued northward with the upper reaches of the Mataura River still on our right and bigger hills to our left.

We turn away from the river now then pass through Manderville. Freedom camping allowed here and at the next two townships. Back to flat pastures with hills and mountains on 3 sides.

Continued on to Lumsden as it is the closest freedom camp to Te Anau and the Sounds. Big parking area near toilets so we pulled into a spare park. Went for a wander across to the railway station.

Found a sign about the free camping spots and realised we weren’t in a proper spot. Back to the camper and shifted to the ‘blue-lined’ spots near the railway station as the other were full where we had first pulled in.

Found some more info and about a historic bank robbery.

Chatted with lady who is trying to sort out her return flight now Dubai airports etc have been closed with the Iran business. She is heading back to Germany so might have to go via Canada instead.

Walked to the other end of the station - this one is beyond repair I think. The old goal?

Still overcast and only 15 degrees! Late drinks watching other travellers trying to decide where to park etc. I don’t envy the ones who have to cook outside etc.

Lots of travellers here and the surrounding takeaways are doing well. We decided to try out the pizza shop across the road as a treat.

We are a day ahead of my planned itinerary so will go to Milford Sound tomorrow. I had booked the Doubtful Sound tour with Get Your Guide so I wouldn’t miss out on that. Will just wing it for a Milford cruise tomorrow.

Our route for today - reverse S direction.

More showers of rain, down to 13 degrees outside when I came back from the pizza shop.

Our Tandori chicken pizza was very nice.