Fri, 28th Mar, 2026 Kawatiri Beach Reserve, Westport, NZ (exploring north West Coast)

Editor note - at last I have started writing again. Thank you for your patience as there are still lots of NZ then UK/Europe to do over the months again. 

17 degrees, still overcast. More rain overnight as it is pouring off the roof now we are moving.

Back to Westport then continued northward under a grey drizzly sky.

The black swans are sitting in the little waterways in the fields. The sun is trying to get through the clouds.

Across a wide waterway/lagoon which goes to the sea (as per Wikicamps map) as we leave the Westport area.

Past Stephen Road - he is everywhere. Very special if we find a Sharon road etc.

Long straight road through farms. A few homes in Waimangaroa. The turn off to Denniston is here - if it is brighter when we return we might go there.

Over the Waimangaroa River - major bridgeworks on the rail bridge.

Continued on with the mountains in cloud on our right and farms on the left.

Heading back to the coast to Granity. Stopped in parking bay opposite the Northern Buller Museum which is closed.

Walked up the street. A Theatre and nice brightly painted places.

Checked out Granity Creek - not far for it to flow into the sea.

Back to the camper and noticed a sign on the rotunda - 100 years of coal production.

Walked across the railway line to the big power shovel and checked out the displays around the museum. As it was drizzly weather we skipped the walk.

Continued on over the creek, passed the turn off up to the mining area. Another thing to do on the return drive.

Passed a line of homes on the sea side then along the coast with the foreshore covered in flax.

Next line of beach homes at Ngakawau (Hector) and its tavern.

Turned up the road to check out the Ngakawau Complex. Continued along a bit to spot the aerial ropeway coal carts going up the hill to the Stockton Mine to transport the coal back here. It goes into the building and onto conveyor belts then piled up at the other end. Nice archways on the 1905 building.

Back to the main road, quick view of the beach then across the Ngakawau River in a shower of rain.

Turned off into the Hector freedom camp area. Big dolphin statue for the Hector’s Dolphins, only ones endemic to NZ. They are the smallest and rarest marine dolphins in the world.

Cuppa by the beach which is lined with big boulders.

Continued past the beachside homes and farms up the coast which is still in mist - seaspray or fog?

Into Mokihinui area. Turning inland then along the edge of the Mokihinui River before it heads out to sea. There is beach campground near the river mouth.

Turned inland, across a one lane bridge over the Mokihinui River.

Started climbing a winding range - 13 kilometres. Just like our Gillies Range at home. Misty views. Map. Landslide repaired.

Down a bit to flat pastures at Corbyvale for a bit then another 6km of downhill winding road in natural forest.

Across Glasseye (1953) Creek bridge then climb up and down for a bit. Luckily there isn’t any traffic today.

Disturbed a hawk/falcon trying to take a dead possum off the road as we continued downward on a very tight wiggly bit of road. So glad Steve is doing all the driving.

Just like our range roads - continual maintenance.

Straighter section but still descending to Lake Hanon. 750m 15 min walk in the sign said. Needs to say that it is uphill for 500m then down for 250m - complete with a hairpin turn! But it was worth the walk. No fish but lots of birds singing.

Back down - walked across to see where Lake Creek goes under the road. Lots of blackberries everywhere.

Road follows the creek for a bit. Thin strip of grazing between the hill, road and creek.

Across Tidal Creek three times - narrow but flowing swiftly as it heads to Little Wanganui River which we then cross.

Through village of Little Wanganui and back to the coast.

Big hill on other side of the river mouth. Still foggy out to sea. Open pastures - lovely and green.

Alongside a hill for a part of the 15km up to Karamea which started as a Special Settlement in 1874. Around the edge of a big estuary. Big logs lining the edge brought in by the big tides. Across the Karamea River.

Along to Market Cross village at a cross-road, hence the name. There are shops, bakery, supermarket and info centre. We turned left and continued on past houses towards Karamea Tavern then down to the estuary for lunch.

Read the info and followed the short walk around to the ‘river’.

Back to Market Cross and the info centre. Very helpful lady. She suggested going to the end of the road to the north and gave us a map. It is as far north you can drive up the West Coast then you have to walk the Heapy Track. It is a beautiful area, used in brochures - especially Scotts Beach. Honeycomb Caves is in a restricted area and access only by organised tour. Finan Caves is 3hour return hike so will skip that.

Back to Karamea and turned off at the 1876 Hotel which was where the wharf was nearby - big change to the river direction.

Right turn at the Hotel and continued across Oparara River.

Continued along North Beach - a bit more blue sky showing but still foggy out to sea.

Snapped a couple of photos of a lovely stag on a farm.

Very windy here - the trees are leaning over.

But further along the palms stand tall.

Road narrows as we crawl around the edge of the mountains into Kahurangi National Park.

Pulled over for a look at the beach and creek.

Continued on across the creek.

Reached the end of the road north at Kohaihai. Day use area to the right and campsites to the left which have views over the beach - now that’s a first. Normally the day use get the view and the campers are shoved back in the bush!

Parked in the day use then walked down to the information boards. Another big hike but not for us, we can just look at the pictures. Old style BBQs here.

Lots of sandflies by the river so we skipped the walk to the suspension bridge which is further up the river. Looking to the mouth then up the Kohaihai River.

Over a sand dune to the beach. View up the valley then southward, the Tasman Sea and the mouth of the river which is very dark (tannin stained).

Deep cut into the sand near the river mouth.

Looking up to the suspension bridge.

Lots of palms. Watched the waves hit the rocks and meet the river water. 

Selfie time.

Walked back via the campsites. Very nice.

Turned around and headed back - lots of tall palms. Car says it is 20 degrees.

Saw some fawns at the farm this time.

Back to Karamea. Found an interesting statue of an eagle and the Maori story about it. Also the big granite boulder from this area. Also info about this site.

Back to Market Cross - the crossroads.

Better photos as we headed back across Karamea River.

Along the straight road looking at 3 bluffs right on the sea edge.

3pm - milking time.

Stopped for a cuppa at Lake Henlon.

Back to the range. At least there is no rain through the clouds are still hanging on the mountain tops.

Clicked over 4000km as we pulled up at a great letterbox near the turn off to Gentle Annie - nice spot apparently.

Back over the Mokihinui River - upstream view.

Turned left then along a bit to the Chasm Creek Walkway where the old railway line was. Great photo.

Followed rail line along the river to Chasm Creek - lovely walk. New bridge over the creek.

Road bridge above us.

Continued on to another bridge which is closed. Peered around the edge for a photo.

Back through the tunnel which is dripping water from the moss.

Headed back to the coast then continued south through the sea fog. Through Hector - view up the coal cable car.

Another photo of Waimangaroa River rail work on the bridge.

Turned off to Denniston Scenic Reserve. Still a free camp at the start of the Bridle Track up to Denniston Mine. Photo from my info brochure too.

Skipped the 8km winding drive up into the clouds as it is 5pm so we continued back to Westport.

Turned off down Stephen Street, passed the Pig & Whistle Hotel. Stopped to top up with diesel where it is cheaper, 317.9c/l - 333.6 in town.

Quick stop at New World - I got some Cornflakes. Woolies only had little gluten free ones. Cordial is hard to get too. Lots of cherrios and savaloys - amazing the different food choices to home.

Back to the free camp but in Site No. 3 this time. Late drinks. Our route for today.

Relaxed and read. The wekas are wandering about looking for tidbits.