Wed, 9th May, 2018 Georgia Bore, cnr CSR & Talawana Track, WA (exploring Talawana Track and Canning Stock Route)

6.30am 17 degrees, clear sky. Mozzie net worked well – they are all looking at me but can’t get in!!

The flies are up early so on with my fly net while we pack up camp.

Headed east onto the Talawana Track. Very sandy. No other recent wheel tracks – just camel hoofprints.

Talawana Track

Len Beadell and the Gunbarrel Road Construction Party built this track in late 1963 as part of the road system developed for a geodetic survey of Australia by the Department of National Mapping. It is about 450km from Well 23 to Newman.

Passing the other side of the range we came past the other night.

Flat country to the north side of us.

The hills continue now to our left as we now run along the side of a sand ridge.

Long straight road – as he says on his DVD – much easier to put in than corners.

Looking at the map where Well 22 and 23 are situated I reckon the drovers would have come straight up to Well 23 rather than the track we took to Georgia Bore. The CSR probably adjusted when Len put the Talawana Track through.

Lovely sloping hills around here compared to the stark rocky ones of Durba and Diebil Hills.

Stopped to check out Well 23 that is marked with a fuel drum. We only found a bit of troughing and a depression in the grass where the well was.

Well 23 (19 feet, 5.8m)

Well 23 is a focal point for most travellers, not for water but for fuel dropped by Capricorn Roadhouse on order.

Further up that track we found the fuel dump spot. Lots of empty ones, a couple that are quite swollen from being in a fire and a few with names on them still with some fuel in them. I wonder how many of them get raided. When Steve’s parents came through they had to get their fuel dropped off as they couldn’t get fuel at the Communities like we can now.

Back onto the TT/CSR and on to Well 24. Across salt pan area as we run beside big hills with a cute little rock pile beside it.

A herd of camels were lolling around near the road – run to the hills!!

Across a wide flat area that didn’t have any spinifex on it then back into the spinifex again.

Had to detour off the track which was washed out and follow another newly made track up on the higher bit.

Interesting hills – nice for a change from sand ridges.

Through a low area with lots of trees the out on the flat again.

Running along parallel with the sand ridges again.

Another badly eroded section that requires a detour.

Then down into the track again which is more like a creek bed now.

Turned off the main track to find Well 24. First we had to cross a creek. First Steve checked it was safe to cross then over we went. Took a quick video of that as it was all good.

Lots of pretty flowers around.

Big salt pan area with lots of layered rock hills around.

I got out and walked to try and find where the well was. Steve checked out the track to make sure it was ok then followed me around.

We walked out to the creek again then back and through the shrubs looking for the well. The water is lovely and clear but I didn’t try it to see how salty it was.

I found it further over behind some trees. It was just a green pool but there was a sign next to it.

Well 24 – Curara Soaks (33 feet, 10m)

Canning was shown this site by his Aboriginal guides. The native soak was a meeting place for Aborigines. In 1952 when Wally Dowling was bring down a mob of cattle from Billiluna, he discovered the body of an Aboriginal boy down the well. After removing and burying the child’s body, Dowling had no option but to continue drawing water for the stock and the droving team.

Steve tossed a rock in and he thinks he is still pretty deep.

Back out to the main track and continued along. Spotted some camels resting but they didn’t stay sitting for very long.

We have left the rocky hills and back into the red sand ridges again as we approach the turn off back onto the CSR proper.

Steve put the sign back up pointing the way to Windy Corner which is 200km to the east and meets the Gary Highway (another of Len Beadell’s). We could have called this corner Windy too as it is blowing a gale. Another sign is buried in the sand. No one has been on that part of the Talawana Track for a while. Decided this was a good enough spot to stop for a cuppa as we haven’t seen anyone at all.

We are now heading into the Gibson Desert according to my maps. 10.30am and 30 degrees though the wind is cool so it is very pleasant.

Two kilometres further on we hit softer sand.

I started to video then we reached the end where water has covered the track. We backed up to where the ground was firmer then I walked back to take photos while Steve followed a detour track around to the right. Someone has driven across recently but we won’t be.

Lots of water – looking from left to right.

This is where we turned around.

Steve came back and said the track continues around a dune and then up the hill further around from the other exit we could see so off we went.

Looking across the low land where the water is sitting. There is a lot more further around.

Up onto the sand ridge where we stopped to look over all the wet land trapped by the sand ridges. Took a video.

A bit further on we found a gorge and you can see the water sitting in the basin in the distance. On the other side (but I didn’t take a photo) you could see a big white salt lake area running alongside another sand ridge.

Continued along on the flat spinifex covered ground with a few salt pans here and there for a long. A little quail flew out of the grass flapping his little wings like mad but he was too quick for me to get a photo. Alongside a ridge before turning to cross over it.

Steve said there is something dead in the bush over there – I thought he meant an animal but it was an old fuel tank. Got a photo of it as we went up the dune in 2^nd gear but oops should have put it into 1^st so he had to have a second go – there goes the reputation again! Got a video of that too – lots to show the boys.

Next was a very eroded section that we slowly crawled along in low range 4WD – a bit of scraping underneath the truck!!

 At one point we were on such an angle Steve could put his hand out the window and touch the ground – I wanted to get out!! Took a video of a bit of that too before I stopped to hang on properly.

More scraping so Steve got out to check the track and then we found a way up onto the flat bit to make a detour track. After a bit we found other wheel tracks so we must have missed the original detour section.

Back to the edge of the sand ridge for a while. Though some softer soil but ok then up and over another sand ridge which I videoed. No messing about this time – up in first. When we looked back we could see a lot more water in the middle than we could see from the track.

Continued on heading to Well 25 when again the water is across the road. Took a video of the wet scene stopping our progress further north. We aren’t far from the well but we won’t be seeing it but here is the information. There is a sand ridge on each side which must be making it into a basin where the water has pooled around the Well area.

Well 25 (37 feet, 11.3m)

This well was originally about 12 metres deep. It was not restored by Snell because of a shortage of timber but was later rebuilt by Canning in 1930.

The map of the area we just came over from Georgia Bore and the end of the trail just before Well 25 (the big white dot) on the Hema.

We backed up a far bit where Steve had seen some wheel tracks heading off hopefully around the wet area. Maybe the Rangers have pushed a track around the wet areas. He went for a walk to check it out but it didn’t go far till it disappeared into more water. He said it was boggy off the track too and got mud all over his boots.

Back to the main track where we drove along till we found a shady tree to have lunch.

Interesting mushrooms are appearing in the middle of the road.

Headed back then Steve noticed another track heading off so of course we followed that one too.

It was only fresh and went up and over spinifex etc then came a sand ridge. We decided to give it a go and after 3 attempts made it up the first one as we had to bounce over the spinifex etc. Video of that of course.

Back on the flat bouncing along.

Made it to the top of the next one but then bogged down so the Treds got their first use and we were on our way again. Another video – will have lots to show the boys.

It appears the track is heading straight to the next spot on the main track. Unfortunately they should have run along the base of the next ridge to get to the track as we ended up in a basin. 

Steve climbed up and spotted the track so we turned around and made our own short track to the main CSR track. Turned left back towards Well 25 in case we can get to it from this end.

But we didn’t get far before the water stopped us again.

We turned around to see if we can continue north now. No wheel tracks on this part of the CSR. Took a video as we climb over a couple of sand ridges.

We climbed another ridge and there was more water in front of us. Zoomed in on the ridge on the other side but what lay ahead of that. Another video of the other detour track down to the water.

The other track maker had come out at the top of this ridge and came down onto the straight heading to the water as we can see their wheel tracks. Doesn’t appear to be any coming back so we presumed they pushed on. Maybe it was the rescuers who had to pull the people out we heard about. As we don’t want to be stuck we turned around.

Headed back along the CSR till we found our track then headed back to the new detour track.

Unfortunately no one has been up from this side so after one attempt we realised we needed to do some ground work first to make the bumpy climb easier. Video of two attempts before we made it over.

The next one was a lot harder as the growth was thicker this side. We tried the track we came down then tried a different approach in high and low range. Did lots of filling up holes with spinifex and dead branches to try and smooth out the track. Backed up for a longer run off and eventually made it to the top but then bogged down. Out with the Treds again and off we went. Lots of videos.

Another difficult climb – 3 attempts and then down the other side. I took video from the top of the ridge this time.

Across the spinifex flat and back onto the CSR south of Well 25 again. I for one am glad to be back on the track!!

Going back over the sand ridges seemed very easy now. At least Steve is seeing what the ridges are like to go over from North to South – he says ‘very easy’. A couple more videos – glad I have spare batteries for my camera.

Back on the open flat again with the hills on our left. An interesting valley.

Sadly we spotted 4 dead camels not far off the road but didn’t stop this time. Obviously the Rangers are out working at the moment.

Just a bit further I noticed a lone camel at the base of the hill. Obviously wondering where his herd has gone!

The ‘racing’ birds are having a ball as we zoom along this flat section doing 50kph. Wish I could video them – they are amazing.

Back at last to Georgia Bore and into our camp spot again. No one else is here again. What a day. So glad we got back ok. Bit too much adventure for me but Steve had all the faith in his trusty Nissan and of course his skills which I am very grateful that he is so competent and so cool headed.