That
dumb rooster started crowing outside our truck at 4am!! I thought they were
suppose to crow at sunrise!! He didn’t stop then either but it was too cold to
get up and throw something at him.
6am
12 degrees, clear sky. The rooster is strutting around our camp as proud as
punch!! I suppose it isn’t his fault so I gave him my banana peel which he
demolished quickly.
Into
Quilpie – nice wide streets like all the other outback towns.
Topped
up the fuel – watching the price rise as we go (163.9c/l), hence we are doing
the top ups. Found St Finbarr Catholic Church and I went inside to check out
the opal altar. ‘In 1976, Father John Ryan decided to compliment the opal
mining background of the area by commissioning local miner, Des Burton, to
install a border of opal around the carving of Our Lady of Perpetual Succour.
Instead Des generously donated an entire wall of opal which was installed on
the altar, baptismal font and lectern. The late Des Burton is remembered as the
father of the boulder opal industry as he was largely responsible for putting
Queensland boulder opals on the world stage.’
Next
door was St Joseph’s Convent.
Big
brick building of Hotel Quilpie now called the Quilpie Heritage Inn.
Lovely
murals in a park, shame they planted a hedge in front which is blocking some of
the mural.
Checked
out the railway museum next to the park.
I
went into the Information Centre to check road conditions south and ask where
we can fossick for boulder opal. She showed me some nice specimens. It is a
man-made site just out of town – they drop of tailings from a mine somewhere so
we can have a dig through.
Headed
out of town – the centre island has cut outs of cattle and the stockman at the
end.
Turned
off into the airport to check out the Amy Johnson (1903-1941), pioneer
airwoman’s history information. Unfortunately the information boards are
cracked and hard to read but I got most of the information. “Amy was born in
Yorkshire, England. In 1928 Amy became the first woman in Britain to be granted
the Air Ministry’s ground engineer’s licence along with gaining both her
commercial and private pilot’s licences as well as qualifying as a Navigator in
1929. In 1930 Amy decided to fly solo from England to Australia in an attempt
to break Bert Hinkler’s record of 16 days. Amy’s father and Lord Wakefield,
head of the Wakefield Castrol Oil Company purchased a used de Havilland DH-60G
Gipsy Moth (G-AAAH) for 600 pounds. This plane, Amy named ‘Jason’. Amy left for
Australia on the 5th May, 1930. Her first stop was Karachi on the 10th
of May. En-route from Karachi to Calcutta, India, her plane suffered damage
during at landing at Jhansi on the 11th May. Due to repairs and bad
weather, the final leg of Amy’s 11,000 mile journey to Darwin was completed on
the 24th of May, 19 and a half days after leaving Britain. Whilst in
Australia, Amy was headed on a scheduled flight to Charleville, on her way to
Brisbane. On the map she used to navigate, Charleville was incorrectly shown as
being the end of the railway line. In fact, Quilpie this distinction, and much
to the excitement of the locals, she landed here, before heading off on her
final leg to Brisbane.” (I tried to make the other sign easier to read.)
Continued
along the road to the Council fossicking area and had a dig around. Found some
interesting bits in one pile. Got a nice little collection which we admired
while having our cuppa under the shade shelter. Steve found some cut stone in
another pile which showed the veins well so we added to our collection. Poor
‘Pat’ – more weight.
Drove
out of town and turned off to check out Baldy Hill Lookout. It was a climb up
to lookout so we decided we will do that on our return when we can got up for
sunset.
Steve
amazed how there is mains power to all these outback towns and stations which
doesn’t happen in WA.
Narrow
bitumen road through scrubby country with ranges around us. Stopped at the
intersection of the Diamantina and Cooper Development Roads. Nice new RV stop
with toilets and information. Even handicap parking area.
Continued
on the Cooper Development Road which is also narrow bitumen towards Eromanga.
Lots of dead emus along the road side as well as kangaroos. We past one live
emu then a couple of young emus sauntered across the road ahead of us. No speed
in these ones. The sheep are hiding in the shade and a roo was cooling under a
tree too. Nothing much for them to eat out here.
Wide
flat plains. Stopped to check out Rambutta Station’s ‘art’.
More
emus still wandering in the heat while the roos are under the trees.
Past
a sign ‘oil fields’ then we spotted a ‘rig’ which wasn’t working.
Further
along was the entrance to Kenmore Oil Field which is owned by Bridgeport and we
could see a rig going up and down in the distance.
Continued
on and spotted a pipeline going under the road and then up to where we could
see smoke. It was from a diesel engine which Steve thinks is pumping the oil
along the pipes.
Into
Eromanga which is the furthest Qld town from the sea and is also known for its
oil and dinosaur discoveries. We topped up the diesel again beside an oil
storage facility.
Two
guys were filling up their tanks and we got chatting. He said the oil here has
a high sulphate content and is mainly used by the mines to keep their
stationary machinery going. The diesel we were filling up with comes from their
company in Singapore or something!
He
and his mate are mining opal further north west and he said the emus and roos
are just dropping dead everywhere because of the drought. He showed us some
very lovely rocks with beautiful colours of opal. Wasn’t game to ask to take a
photo as one bit he said would become a $10,000 pendant. Wow. It had flashes of
red which is very popular now. He used an endloader and he explained what they
look for and how to get to the opal etc. Very interesting and very beautiful.
We
are a long way from home and have a long way to go yet to get back to the van.
Drove
across the road to a plaque beside the artesian bore.
Another
one was about the iOR (Inland Oil Refinery).
Drove
into the little township and pulled up beside some big trees laden with yellow
fruit.
The cairn out the front says it is Opalopilis Park and there is lots of lovely opal set into the concrete.
The
ground is covered in roo droppings and they are lazing under the tree after
filling their bellies with the lovely green grass here. Had our lunch in the
shade shelter as it is 34 degrees.
Checked
out the information board and the big map.
Next
door in the Hall was a museum and it was open so we went in for a look. Lots of
information and photos. There were videos playing of locals telling their
stories which will be interesting to hear when we have more time. Snapped a few
photos of interesting things.
The
flood ones were amazing and the three comparison aerial shots are fabulous.
More
info about the artesian basin and the gas and oil drilling and refinery.
A
lot of info about boulder opal and some nice specimens on display.
A
bit of information about the discoveries of the largest dinosaur in the world
near here but most of that info is at the Eromanga Natural History Museum
further out of town. Three dinosaurs are known as Cooper, Zac and George.
The
blacksmith shop was near here.
Went
along to the Royal Hotel but it didn’t have a history sign. In another brochure
I read that it was built in 1885 and was a Cobb & Co staging post.
There
was one across the road about the general store.
Drove
further down and checked out a new park where ‘Knot-O-Saurus’ has been erected
with his little family. They have come a long way.
Continued
along the Cooper Development Road. Sky getting darker as a cloud band comes
over us. No more dead animals by the road which is interesting and good. Saw a
few good willy willies in the distance as the wind is whipping up the dust.
Turned
south and travelled through the same sort of country but up and down long
ridges on a straight bitumen road.
Stopped
for a cuppa at the Innamincka turnoff. Chatted with a couple from Bowral, NSW
who were towing a Nova caravan.
We
continued south – saw two emus where some bore water was present. Shame they
didn’t leave a phone number so we could make an offer for the ute.
Turned
off onto the Warri Gate Road to head to Noccundra. Two chaps on motorbikes
waved us down at the intersection. They were looking for the pub and had become
confused as just up the road is Nockatunga Station where as they were looking
for Noccundra further along the road. I said they had their nocckers mixed up!!
We
pulled up at the toilets and checked out the info board. Only the hotel and hall
are left of the township now.
Wandered
over to the Hotel and read the plaque about Andrew Hume on the cairn. Lovely green
grass here.
The
guys on the bikes weren’t far behind us. They were both from England and had
hired the BMW motorbikes (like the French guys we met on the Birdsville Track)
to do a trip inland up to Cairns and then down the coast. They had just come up
from Tibooburra and said the road was rough and sandy – for them of course, ok
for us. They both had a fall off their bikes in the soft bull dust holes but
were ok though one bike has a broken lever.
We
went inside for a drink and chatted with some other chaps who were going to the
Innamincka races tomorrow. One of them worked for Santos (oil) and had missed
his flight so his mates were driving him up to work with a slight detour. The
lady publican was giving him cheek, calling him a ‘Smurf’. Apparently they only
wear blue work clothes and don’t have to wear high visibility clothing like all
other work places. Interesting – he didn’t offer a reason why – just gave her
some cheek back.
The
old pub has very thick sandstone walls and the bar is in one small room on the
end so it echoed a lot. Finished our drinks and headed down to Wilson River
nearby to camp for the night.
There are a lot of other campers – maybe race goers too. We chose a spot and set up. The flies have found us.
Drinks
down by the water. Lots of water in this lagoon but light brown like the
others. A turtle is popping his head up. The ladies in the next camp have
fishing lines out but aren’t hopeful of catching anything.
A
flock of galahs arrived and fought over who got to sit on the little sticks in
the water so they could have a drink. The smart ones just sat on the edge and
had a drink. Then they all flew off together and peace came back to the camp
area.
Our
route today.
It
is still quite windy and we had one big gust come through whipping up the dirt
on the ground and covering us with it!!
Steve
had prepared a fire to heat some water for showers but the wind was getting
stronger rather than dropping. We waited for a bit but eventually gave up on
that idea. Lovely colour as the sun heads to bed.
I
cooked dinner on the stove with Steve holding up one of the big lids to try and
block the wind. The wind has changed direction now and is coming across the
water bringing a nice coolness to it.
Had
a quick birdbath then climbed into bed at 8.30 as it was too windy to stay
outside. Pulled down the kitchen door to stop the wind coming in that side. We
both read for a while then gave up and went to sleep with the wind howling
outside. I was able to leave the bedroom door up as it was mainly hitting the
other side and back of the truck.
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