Sun, 7th August, 2022 Turf Club 72hr RV Area, Port Hedland to Settlers Beach campsites, near Cossack, WA (exploring Roebourne and Cossack)

13.2 degrees, clear sky. Said bye to Mick and Anne. Poor Anne fell over this morning taking their dog for a walk and has badly twisted her ankle. They are heading to Cleaverville Beach today so we might see them there.

Headed out of town. Stopped at the site of the old well.

Spotted the truck filling the road train’s carriages with salt. I bet the maintenance on that machinery is high with all that salt.

Back onto the Great Northern Highway - the wind is back. We are listening to traffic pilots advising trucks etc as they guide two 8.5m loads south. First we had to pass two flat other semis who had pilots too. They stopped and let a heap of us pass as the other pilots had blocked the road ahead for the wide loads to get across narrow sections and bridges.

Crossed the Turner River - water one side and sand the other.

Other trucks had to pull off to let the wide loads pass so they were just coming back onto the highway.

We are now just behind the two wide and tall loads.

They continued on the Great Northern Highway while we turned onto the north West Coastal Highway. Unfortunately the road train in front of us is stuck behind the wide loads so he will be having a slow trip.

It is flat open country, red sand and salt bush and spinifex, so I can still see the tower heading along the other road for quite a while.

Across a wide Yule River but it only has a small pool of water now and lots of sand.

Stopped for a cuppa then continued on. A few small rocky hills and long low sand ridges. A bit of water in Poverty Creek as we travel alongside smooth spinifex covered long hill set which is called Yirrakulanha Hills - no trees.

Little purple wildflowers and yellow blooms on the little shrubs look lovely. Across Whim Creek which is dry.

Turned off at the Pub replica.

There is a caravan parked in a cleared area and two other campers near the pub as it was a good place to pull in for the night and enjoy a good meal. Unfortunately it is now closed. My booklet (which is a few years old) said that two local indigenous organisations reopened the pub as a joint venture. The hotel was built in 1886 after copper was discovered at Whim Creek and was once named Australia’s most iconic hotel by the National Geographic. There was a town here too which had another hotel, police station, a racetrack, blacksmith and population of 400. The mural down the fence is good with ‘bouncing’ caravan, the wheelbarrow race and an emu who looks right at you.

There is a small graveyard nearby and a memorial has been erected for the members of a local Aboriginal family, Lockyer, who served in the Australian armed forces.

Looking across to the old mine, I presume.

The hills continue - some very rocky. Across Sherlock River which has lots of water.

A range of exposed rock hills to our left and open flat country covered in grass - not spinifex. Easy for mustering as there is nowhere for the cattle to hide! Not that we have seen any cattle.

Lunch at the Info Bay before Roebourne. Lots of information boards with great photos. Across the Harding River which is dry here. There is a dam 27km to the south with picnic areas etc.

Into Roebourne which was settled in 1866 and named after WA’s first surveyor, General John Septimus Roe. The town was originally founded as an administrative and service centre for the emerging pastoral industry. Looking across to the old gaol precinct - looks impressive.

We turned left at the Police Station then around to the old gaol carpark. Unfortunately it is undergoing renovations so we can’t get in but we can wander around the outside. It was the Information Centre according to my brochure so that must be somewhere else now. The gaol was built in the 1880-90s. The buildings were designed by George Temple-Poole and built by William Lambert Owen. We wandered around the fenceline. The main gaol area has 4 ‘arms’ meeting in the middle and another building next to it.

Below there is another couple of buildings fenced off.

We continued along the retaining wall but didn’t take the steps! There is a collection of minerals along the fenceline with labels facing inwards.

More buildings further along. This one needs more repairs but it has a new roof.

Up some steps to some toilets and another building which isn’t fenced off. Chatted with another couple who were having a look too.

Looking down on the gaol.

I walked back to the road where I had seen a sign. It was the heritage trail and some information about the gaol precinct. Great photo at the top. Looking at the map provided the other buildings were Wardens quarters etc and the one up higher was the Courthouse. The police station is next to where the new ‘lock-up’ was built which is probably this building.

Great photo at the top of the heritage trail info which will be taken from the Harding River.

I joined Steve in the truck and we headed down the streets looking for the heritage buildings. It is great to see the old photos to be able to compare them with how they look now. Not much difference at the Post Office.

Walked along Roe Street reading the heritage trail signs.

I love all the old buildings but sadly they do take a lot of upkeep. I am not so keen on the ‘modern’ versions.

On the other side of the street.

Back down the street I checked out a cairn for Emma Withnell in the middle of the street.

Walked through the park to check out Harding River which has water in it compared to when we drove across it on the highway.

Nice war memorial.

Back in the truck we drove around the block and found another heritage sign but the building looks nothing like the old one. Interesting note about the Bunning brothers who were the founders of Bunnings Warehouses.

Up another street then I walked up to the church on the top of a hill. It was locked so I couldn’t have a peak inside. Great view from up here. Looking across to the race course.

Steep drive up Mt Welcome which was named by Emma Withnell. There is a 52km heritage drive & walk trail (created for the Bicentenary) which takes in Cossack, Wickham and Point Samson.

Nice view of the town on the other side of Mt Welcome and the Harding River. I zoomed in on the river as it winds its way towards the coast. In the distance we can see ships lined up to get their cargo at Point Samson.

There are 6 cut-outs showing the different tribes that lived on the land around here. They are facing the land their ancestors walked. The first one looks over the view I just took photos of.

Back down the hill where I spotted one of the Emma Withnell history plaques in front of this old home.

Past the old school house and the hospital.

A bit further along on the opposite side is a brick wall that was once part of Roe’s residence - a new building has been built behind it. Below that is the old homestead of the Withnells. The photo on the board was taken in 1995, compare it to the one now. Looking up at Mt Welcome.

The map showing the 4 towns of this area though Cossack no longer has residents.

We drove around the base of Mt Welcome and past the other section of Roebourne which seems to have more homes, school etc. Continued on to the turn off to Cossack, 5km further on. Around the edge of large salt flats then water and mangroves as we near Cossack.

Lovely picture of one of the heritage buildings on the sign. Cossack was established in 1863 as the North West’s first port for the pastoral and pearling industries. It was abandoned in the 1950s.

We turned off first to check out the old school house. Malcolm rang so we stopped and had a great chat. What a shame we won’t be able to catch up while they are in WA but they are too far south, exploring Kalgoorlie then up to Leonora etc before heading to the coast.

Only a small building and it seems a long way from the town. Some more info from the Cossack trail brochure says, “In Sept, 1905 a children’s plain and fancy dress ball was held. It was attended by 70 children dressed as various characters, including fairies, Buffalo Bill, sailors, clowns and jockeys. A special 6.45 train brought them from Roebourne to attend the festivities and carried them home again at 11pm.” Next to the school house was the tramway.

Steve walked around the back of the school house and found the door was open and set up ready for a school day. There is a small storeroom attached.

We could hear music and there were lots of cars at the wharf. We parked and made a cuppa. The sandflies were wanting a nibble too. Got out the spray - no wonder no-one lives here any more. We asked a couple why there are so many people here - one of the mine companies held a special art day for children which is just finishing. Erica’s cousin, John, rang from hospital returning our call to wish him all the best. It was lovely chatting with him and we hope he can stay comfortable and painfree.

Checked out one of the info boards. Not sure if something was supposed to be on the pole.

On the old wharf looking out to the sea to the lighthouse and building on Jarman Island in the distance. Back along the wharf looking out Butchers Inlet.

Across the road to another sign about the tram station - just some concrete slab now. Love all the old photos. We can just make out the wreck because of the buoys.

Further along we found the Heritage Trail sign.

Walked up Pearl Street. People are starting to pack up from the art day. Another Emma Withnell plaques and the newer ones. This store has not survived the harsh conditions.

Continued up the street. First the Post Office then the Courthouse that was built in the town’s declining years. It was the building on the sign as we came into town. Certainly was grand.

Out the back is an old well.

Across the road is another lovely building. Galbraith & Sons originally started in Scotland in the 1890s and by the 1940s there were over 200 stores. It has an interesting roof line.

Walked back via the courthouse and found this old map. The art gallery was unattended so we couldn’t go in.

Steve checked out the dragon boats.

Walked back around the back of the Post Office and found the old bakery.

Opposite that is the old Police barracks, cookhouse and lockup. The small buildings are the shower room and behind that is the toilet. The cookhouse is further up with the well in between.

We checked inside which had information and old photos in each of the rooms.

Interesting information about the Leprosarium near here and also on Bezout Island.

Also a couple of photo boards of Jarman Island which has the lighthouse but no other information.

Lots of people still milling around the back of the Customs Building. There is an accommodation place on the other side of the cookhouse.

Around to the front of the Customs House. The curved wall on one end is unusual.

Back to the truck and up the hill to the lookout. Pretty flowers everywhere.

On the way up the hill we spot the lonely boab tree, a long way from the Kimberleys.

From the Emma Withnell history trail plaque which is a bit hard to read - The lookout is named after the ship Tien Tsin that brought the first pastoralist, Walter Padbury, to the area in 1963. He settled on the banks of the De Grey River. The town around this port was originally called Tien Tsin but changed to Cossack in 1871 after the warship that carried the State’s Governor, Frederick Weld to the Pilbara. More info from the tourist brochure. Nice mural on the water tank.

More information about the Leprosarium which was over there, I think. We couldn’t find the butcher’s stone house which was also mentioned.

Fabulous 360 degree view from up here. Looking across the bay to Point Samson and further over to where Rio Tinto’s iron ore loading facilities and jetty are at Cape Lambert. Around over the townsite and up Butcher’s Inlet. The old school house and then the salt flats. Wickham is nestled below the hills.

We went back to the town and then headed out to Reader Head Lookout. First we stopped at the Chinese Market Gardens.

Next was the cemetery. They have a nice resting place by the water.

I continued down the path to the Japanese section while Steve drove around to the picnic area. There was no exit from here so I had to climb through the fence.

More of the exposed rocky hills.

View from the picnic area back up Butchers Inlet.

Continued over the hills. Spotted a van parked in what looked like a camping area by the water.

Pulled into Reader Head carpark and walked up to the Lookout. Great view back down Butchers Island then over the carpark and Settlers Beach below. Across to Point Samson and we can see the Rio Tinto loading facilities and jetty at Cape Lambert from here.

Chatted with a chap from Karratha who said when it is a real low tide you can walk across to Jarman Island. It was named after the captain of the Tien Tsin. He was very knowledgeable about all the different mining companies. He also said there are camp sites at Settlers Beach as well as the other spot and we should see the caretaker back at Cossack.

Back to the truck looking down on the beach and one caravan parked up. As it is getting late we decided this would be a good spot to stop for the night.

We drove back to Cossack and found the caretaker. He said the camps were actually closed today because of the childrens’ art festival but now it was finished he could give us a site. $20 for the night so we chose to go back to Settlers Beach.

Jarman Island looks so close from down here. There are a few sandflies around here too. The caretaker said he uses Palmer moisturiser which has coconut in it and they don’t bother him.

I walked back to read the info boards. Will have to walk back to the beach and have a look for the spot.

Not far back along the track was another one about the Afghan Transit Camp. The date palm stands out but I didn’t go wandering in the long grass looking for an old campsite.

Back to the beach and I wandered along checking out the shells. Huge fingernail!

I looked at all the rocks but couldn’t see one with the markings on it.

Steve is more interested in his book - he has become such a book worm now.

A band of mackerel clouds are coming over.

The sea in the bay is flat and calm.

The sun set over the land creating pretty colours on the clouds.

Rang Rebecca for a catch up chat - doing well.

We watched Red Dog - True Blue which was the fictional story of how Red Dog came to be in Dampier etc. It was really good and I still cried at the end. We had watched Red Dog years ago and I howled at the end of that so I knew I didn’t want to watch it again. Will read more about him in Dampier where there is a statue. On Wikicamps I noticed a mark for his grave along the Cossack Road, so will try and find it tomorrow.

The tide has gone out so it is very quiet as there are no waves crashing on the beach. We can just hear the machinery working at the port and see all the lights.