Sunday, 17 April 2016

Wed, 13th Apr, 2016 164k Peg Rest Area, Nullarbor National Park to Koonalda Homestead, Nullarbor National Park, SA (Cliff views & Koonalda Caves)


15 degrees at sunrise, got the heater going!! A bit misty too.


Continued along the Eyre Highway till the Cook turnoff. The old township of Cook was a busy centre for the Transcontinental Railway line. There were over 500 people living there at its peak. It is now used as a refuelling point for the diesel locomotives. It was well known for its bush hospital, ‘if you are crook go to Cook’. It is 107 km north over a dirt road. Might get there one day – probably when we take the train!!

We turned to the south and followed another part of the dog fence down to the ocean.

A long way down (80-90 metres).



Walked along the edge to a point to the east for better view of the different layers of the cliffs.


Pretty little flowers.

National Parks have been blocking off areas to ‘revegetate’. There is another track going to the east and to the west but they are not on our Hema map so decided to head back to the main road.

The next 500m is an emergency landing spot for the RFDS (wider bitumen area). Hope it doesn’t get used much.

More tracks leading off the road which have now been ripped up so you can drive on them and to allow vegetation to regrow on those tracks.

Pulled into the first Lookout the National Parks has put in. Unfortunately they don’t provide bins and some people are just too lazy to take their rubbish with them – it is everywhere.

Walked along the designated path to the viewing platform for a magnificent view back on the coastline to the east.






Of course the sign has been scribbled all over. They advise why they have closed the other viewing spots.

A couple of love locks.

Shiny crows.

Back onto the main highway, the motorhome was crawling along so Steve got to overtake someone!!

Further along we turned north along a rocky dirt road with only a little corrugation.

Spotted a wild dog – must be a cross-bred dingo.


A lot more trees around here.

After 17km we reached the intersection of the Old Eyre Highway. Looking west then east.


Continued along the road north to the old Koonalda Homestead which was also a roadhouse back when this was the only way across the Nullarbor. Of course there wasn’t the 4WDs like we have and the old cars that didn’t make it are all out the back. We pulled into the service station to fill up!! Can’t read what the last price was on the bowser.


The old homestead. Will check it out later.

Drove over to the Shearer’s Quarters which has been reroofed and two water tanks put in. It is made from railway sleepers. Inside was clean with a few old items and newer ones added by visitors. A few left messages recently on the wall. The fridge has lots of old ones. Might have a fire in here tonight.



There are even beds in the next room to bunk on if needed.

Even a verandah out the back.

Good spot to stop tonight.

Had some lunch relaxing on the verandah. Steve left his Pepsi can with the others.

Unhooked and drove further north to the old shearing shed.

Steve checking his weight!!

It is amazingly intact.




Steve was impressed with the ‘original’ sliding door.

There was even wool on the floor and millions of sheep’s poo under the floor boards. I wonder when it was used last.

Outside was a water trough.

They were very resourceful using whatever they could get their hands on.

The old sheep pens were made from old railway sleepers.

Continued along the road then turned east to a big hole. A sink hole rather than a cave and obviously it became the rubbish dump.



The wombats and rabbits like it.

Walked to the dump end.


Further up we went around a little hill and found the Koonalda Cave. It is huge. It provided the water supply for the Koonalda Station. Somewhere down there is supposed to be old pumping equipment, probably under the shrubbery.



Steve went one way and I went the other. He looks so small on the other side.


I sat on the edge and hung the camera over for some shots. Long way down to the fenced entrance to the deep cave area. You need permits to enter and they have found old aboriginal paintings etc in there.

Further around I got a better shot of the fenced area.

A hole through the rock but the boulder didn’t make it through yet. You can see the bottom of the cavern through the hole.



I walked to the other end to look back at the cave entrance area.



Back away from the cave opening was a grate over another hole in the roof. It has a trap door. Steve thought they might get down that way via a long rope ladder.


Peered through the grill. Maybe it was the original blow hole before it all collapsed in.

Someone left their keys behind.

Drove up onto the hill for a better view.

Back to the homestead to check out the car graveyard.



 Even an old mini.

Who said Landrovers never die.

Back to the homestead for a look. It was used up till 1988.





Nothing much inside. Plenty of rooms.



Found some old newspapers from 1960.




Out the back.

Drove down the road back to the Old Eyre Highway – it was smoother than the track up from the new highway. Across a grid. The shrubs are slowly reclaiming the road.


Headed east for 7km to the Guinewarra Tanks. Presume they were for stock but I suppose they were also helpful to the weary traveller or for boiling radiators.

Mr Grasshopper getting a free ride.

Back to the van for a cuppa. I had put lamb chops in the Ecopot but we decided it would be nice to have steak, sausages and vegies in the bushcooker. I worked on my blog while Steve got the bushcooker ready.

I looked out and found him cleaning up all the rubbish around the area. People dump it in the drums but birds and wind then spread it everywhere. Why can’t they just take it back out when they leave!!

Two cars with camper trailers behind pulled in. Steve got the fire going in the fireplace.

I put my phone onto the aerial in the van to see if we got reception with the higher aerial. I did, then I got a text from Telstra about a deal. Then the time changed to WA time but we aren’t there yet. It will take some adjusting to going back 1.5 hours when we cross the border. I decided to add our card and name to the traveller’s wall.

The sun was setting behind the trees as we chatted. Jack & Vicki and their friend Geoff are from Sydney. Actually Camden. I said my cousin Pete & Marion leaved in Grassmere in Camden and they knew them. Vicki plays tennis with Marion and they live in the close up from Pete’s place. What a small world!! I sent off a text to Marion. My phone has changed back to SA time again!!


Had delicious dinner (nice to be able to cook with a fire again) by the fireplace inside. Cooling off outside now. The others came in to join us and we chatted the night away. We could hear dingos howling in the distance. They had seen a light coloured one on their way here. Maybe one came home with some dinner – a juicy rabbit or wombat!!

No stars out tonight with the cloud cover. Steve did the washing up so I went outside to tip out the left over sauce from the lamb stew. I was very quick about it as a dingo howled nearby!


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