The
sun is up before 5am (WA time). We got up at 6am, 16 degrees and cool breeze
though you can feel the sun’s heat when you stand in it. All quiet here – no
animals moving about at all.
Spotted
6 camels just up the track. I can count - the other one was further away.
Slow
driving to Mount Beadell over a rocky-based track and then through the trees.
Big
information board at the base of the mount about Len Beadell.
On
the other side was a map and lots of Len’s drawings.
Climbed
up the hill.
Near
the top we noticed there was a track up the other side. We need the exercise
and the track is loose rocks so I don’t want to do that again after the one at
Desert Queen Baths!!
Checked
out the replica of Len Beadell’s theodolite and the plaque.
I
added a stone to the cairn.
Steve
uncovered a plaque at its base.
Took
a video and photos of the view – very windy up here. The straight as a
gunbarrel highway continues.
Steve
spotted a dingo where the 4WD track stopped so we went around the other side of
the rocks and spotted him – marking his spot – how’s that for good timing!!
Found
a rock hole but it opens up under the rock so it won’t hold water.
Walked
down the 4WD track – glad we didn’t drive up it.
Continued
the slow drive over the rocky and eroded track.
Back
to the flats and ironstone gravel corrugations and many bypass tracks which are
just as corrugated.
Onto
hard surface rocky ground again.
Passed
a couple of abandoned 44 gallon drums then stopped to check some aluminium
sheet which Steve says is a kitchen sink draw from a camper trailer.
Continued
bumping along then found the rest of the camper-trailer.
Along
the track through a wide open are of spinifex. On the Hema there is a mark
called ‘Decker Field’ but can’t see anything here except spinifex.
Steve
checked a XW Falcon station wagon with 6 cylinder motor by the side of the
track.
A
low range appearing in the distance to our left.
Climbed
up a gentle incline to Mt Everard.
The
track then headed west.
Big
goanna zoomed across the track.
Stopped
at the turnoff for the Gary Highway which heads up to the Canning Stock Route.
Checked
out another of Len’s plaques. No big gum tree around here so he used a 44
gallon drum.
Looking
west on the Gunbarrel Highway then Gary Highway then east where we have come from.
We
made a cuppa and read the visitor’s book which was supplied by Connie Sue
Beadell – Len’s daughter. Shame to think that someone would steal the plaques.
Connie runs tours over Len’s ‘highways’. Len did this section from Jackie
Junction through to Carnegie during Sept-Nov 1958 making it the 60th
anniversary so we are doing it on a special year. Certainly a lot of entries in
the visitors book this year. Last entry last year was 15th October
so we might be the last ones for this year. The first one was in March this
year.
Nice
cool wind. Continued west and Steve saw a flash of glass or something in the
distance. Turned out to be a vehicle heading towards us. They pulled over so we
stopped for a chat. A foreign couple doing the circuit from Wiluna to the turn
off then up the Gary Highway then back down the Canning to Wiluna.
Slow
going over more rock-based ground then back to the ironstone gravel and its
corrugations.
Stopped
at the exploration marker for the explorer, David Carnegie – looks like there
should have been a sign on the star pickets.
Another
dead trailer off the track. Spotted two camels and then an old HQ Holden on its
lid as we approached Geraldton Bore.
Lots
of gum trees appearing near the bore and we found a hand pump here. Parked in
the shade of the trees to have lunch.
The
original bore was drilled by the CRA Oil Exploration in April 1987 and then the
Geraldton Historical Society put down this new bore in April 1989. The hand
pump was installed in June 2007 to assist travellers to find water. Someone has
modified it and left their pot behind.
By
the way, did I say how much I love my step that Bob and Margaret gave me. It is
just perfect for peering in the fridge and freezer over my table/shelf on the
side of the truck.
Left
the bore site and only went a short way when Steve noticed a plaque in a big
gum tree. It was another of Len’s but it wasn’t marked on our map. Another
plaque by Connie said the original plaque was lost a few years after it was
erected in 1958.
More
bypass tracks to chose from.
Continued
west for a while then turned south-west. Two huge tyres mark the start of the
Shire of Wiluna and the start of a very nicely graded road. Steve is zooming
along at 60kph which is such a change after the slow crawling we have been
doing.
Straight
track still rolling over the ridges.
Turned
west to Mungilli Claypan according to my map but the sign says Mangkili Claypan
National Park – go figure.
Through
a section full of gums – must be good water source about.
Reached
the intersection of Eagle Highway which was constructed in the early 1980s for
oil exploration. The southern section was renamed David Carnegie Road in 1996
which heads south to the Great Central Road and Empress Springs. Empress
Springs was named by Carnegie during his 1896 expedition. His party were
dangerously close to running out of water before an Aboriginal showed this
water supply down inside a cave.
The
grader driver has been having fun and made a sculpture.
The
good road continues so we can officially say that this part of the Gunbarrel is
actually as smooth as a Highway. I wonder if it was this good when Len made it.
Climbed
up a rise then turned up the track to Mt William Lambert Lookout. Doesn’t look
like a desert from here.
Walked
up the track to the cairn and a plaque put here in 1959 by the National Mapping
Survey Party.
Continued
west past an ‘oval’, complete with footy posts.
Into
sand dune country again with spinifex and low shrubs.
Past
Mt Nossiter – great view from the crest with a willy willy going across the
road.
We
weren’t expecting such a good road after reading the notes in magazines etc so
we will make good time back to Meeka and will catch up with Tom and Sandy
before they leave. Will have to thank her again for her songs which I have been
playing through the spare phone since the speaker I bought for $10 broke.
Running
along between two sand ridges then around the end of one then back between two
again to we reach the next end. We are in the Little Sandy Desert.
Big
burnt section making the dunes stand out.
Spotted
our first kangaroo, a small red, and it nearly ended up on our bull bar but
turned away at the last moment, thank goodness. We were surprised at the lack
of them, obviously they need too much water to live in the desert.
The
dunes have finished and we are on open flat rock and sandy ground with low
bushes and the ‘bigger’ trees in the creeks.
Lots
of cattle droppings along the road which we commented on then a cow walked onto
the road ahead of us then sauntered slowly across to a bore nearby. Must be the
start of the Carnegie Station bores.
Back
into sand hills again then a range appears to our right. Lots of hills are
marked on the map and a lot of ‘lakes’ but of course they are dry.
Arrived
at Carnegie Station Homestead which is the end of the Gunbarrel Highway. Got
our finish photo.
Drove
into the Station where they have camping spots and accommodation available. No
one was about so we parked under the shady gum trees.
Steve
put on the kettle while I went into the ‘campers kitchen’ and checked out the
info on the walls as I had read they had info about Len and the Gunbarrel
Highway here.
There
is also info about Eileen Lanagan who was the first lady to take stock down the
Canning Stock Route that we read about previously.
When
I walked out Steve was chatting with two guys. Jim and his son, Brendan.
Brendan has been working here for 3 years and Jim comes up fromVictoria for 6
months to help with the mustering each year. They invited us into the ‘kitchen’
for a cuppa and chat. Jim was most interested in hearing about the Canning
Stock Route as he plans to do it next year. We had a great chat and he said
they took off half the herd so there are only about 5,000 head here at the
moment. They have a station closer to Perth where they take them to fatten up
before they are exported live to Asia. The station is owned by the Snell Family
and they also own the next station west, which we will travel through. Brendan
went back to getting some cabins organised for some workers arriving with the
boss tomorrow. We signed the visitors’ book and headed outside. Nice green
grass which is covered in roo poo. We said we haven’t seen any and they said they
need to be around water hence you see a lot where cattle are.
Steve
asked what vehicles they used for mustering and he said helicopters, motorbikes
and Jeep Wranglers which he took us over to the shed to see. I forgot to take
photos of the homestead which was low set with plenty of trees and lots of old
bits and pieces welded into the fence. Jim will head back to Victoria once the
relief staff arrive. The boss is busy trying to get the hay cut etc down south.
Said
farewell and we headed off – now on the Carnegie-Wiluna Road. An emu trotted
across the road in front of us.
Spotted
more roos with the cattle at the bore and a flock of galahs flew up out of the
trees.
Across
flat country. Another car ‘sculpture’ – an old Valiant.
Pulled
into Mingol Camp which is an old drover’s camp to park up for the night. There
is water in the waterhole and a few cattle and kangaroos about but they are on
the other side.
A
lonely hawk is keeping an eye on things. That might be his nest up there.
Lots
of galahs, crested pigeons and bees are buzzing around the blooms in the trees.
There
is another slab complete with bed frame nearby but the shelter has gone.
Our
route for today – need two maps.
Our
last night on the road in our ‘unit’. Back to our van tomorrow.
Steve
got the fire going in the fireplace and hundreds of moths flew out of the
chimney.
I
could see across to the waterhole and spotted some kangaroos having a drink.
Nice to hear all the birds chirping. A few cows are making noises about us
being here.
Steve
cooked our steaks on the BBQ while I cooked the vegies.
Lovely
evening temperature. All quiet now except for the occasional moo of a cow.
Played
Skipbo – need to get some practice for the girls versus boys game when we see
Tom and Sandy. Though the way Steve has been winning maybe we should be husband
and wife teams!!
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