Sat, 11th June, 2022 Jarnem Campground, Keep River National Park, NT to bush camp at Buttons Crossing by Ord River, north of Kununurra, WA (Lake Argyle)

6am 16 degrees, clear blue sky. Glad I put my winter pjs and bed socks on and we got out our big blankets. Can’t believe the change from the heat and humidity to the dryness and cold wind. We haven’t closed the pop-top windows as we like some fresh air about.

Headed out of the national park. Found some of the ‘poop’ droppers near Dingo Creek.

Out to the Victoria Highway and west to the border. I had cooked up all the vegies last night, even sliced the onions and put them in the freezer. One banana left so I froze that to make a cake with, so we are all good to go through the quarantine check point. Got a quick photo by the sign before heading in to be checked.

We were cleared but the couple in front didn’t read any of the signs and bought a heap of fruit and veg in Katherine and had to hand it all over. We watched the officer take it out of the bags and tip is all in the bin. What a waste. Eventually the couple moved and we continued on into WA by 9am.

Mt Hensman looms in front of us.

Turned off onto the Lake Argyle Road. Driving along side big quartz ridged hills - missed a photo of a quartz wall going up the side of one ridge. Then more rugged hills appear in a range. Lovely scenery.

Across a thin creek which is called Spillway Creek but is an overflow from the dam, different to where the water flows from the dam wall down the Ord River.

Travelling between the hills now. Lots of vans and campers coming out.

First glimpse of the water in the dam.

Passed the turn-off for the museum - will check it later. Then slowly went past the Lake Argyle Tourist Resort where people are cueing up with their vans etc to get in to stay. Apparently people park up in the overflow area at night waiting for someone to exit in the morning. Too crowded for us.

Up a narrow steep road to the Water Tank Lookout - wow what a view.

Below is where the houseboats etc leave from.

Checked out the information.

Zoomed in on the dam wall (embankment as per the info). It is all rock and took a few goes to build during the dry seasons each year. It has since been raised to double its capacity.

Interesting water tank - maybe it is just for the toilets as I can hear the water flowing into it.

Selfie time for us and ‘Smokey’ to prove we were here!

Drove back down then around the bay where the houseboats etc are. I think the ‘Spillway Creek’ comes from this corner.

Around the corner to overlook the ‘intake structure’. The sides of the road are all paved with flat rocks.

Across the dam wall. Quick photo through Steve’s window of the water flowing down the Ord River.

Down past the quarry then to the bottom to check out the ‘outlet valves’. A tremendous amount of water is pouring out. A boab with heaps of leaves.

Pulled up to check out the sign on the rock wall - they make power here too which is logical considering the power of the water coming out.

Continued down to the picnic area for a cuppa. Lovely view. A boat was pulling up long canoes. That might be fun to float down the gorge in. Might look into it on our return next year.

Headed back out. A group were heading off in canoes. Steve admired the old stretched troop-carrier.

As we drove up we saw the quarry site.

Before crossing back over the wall we stopped to check out some plaques. Dam completed 30^th June 1972. They started the idea of it all with the diversion dam in 1963.

Walked across for the view down the river and the gorge. The canoeist will have some assistance from the water pushing them downstream. They must get picked up further down as it would be a hard slog paddling back up against that current.

Climbing back up - tried to get a photo of the gorge further downstream.

We stopped in the overflow area and walked into Lake Argyle Tourist Park. The people were starting to get a bit annoyed with the delay in getting to their campsites! I would hate to be trying to get them all sorted out.

We went inside Reception to try and get some info about the canoe trips but nothing and the staff were flat out. Will google it later. Found some interesting maps on the wall.

Wandered through checking out all the different traveller’s set-ups. There are cabins too. We are presuming it was the site for the camp when the dam was being built - will have to check that out. Found the Infinity Pool which is quite small considering the amount of people here. A lady was getting in and said it was freezing - I tried it and it was as well as the wind was quite cool too which didn’t help. Nice view though. As we had our own private infinity pool at Robin Falls I don’t think I need to get in this one.

Continued out then turned onto a dirt track down the Argyle Homestead Museum.

Checked out the graves first. A few had been moved to here from their original site on the Dunham River.

They have a pet bower bird here - Patsy. His ‘den’ to lure his ladies too is just outside the fence under a tree. He likes the white plastic lids and silicon nozzles.

Walked in and paid our fee then we spotted ‘Patsy’ on the chair. He posed for a photo then flew off.

This building is a replica of the original homestead that was situated under the water now but they saved the stones etc and rebuilt it here. Unfortunately they didn’t get any of the family possessions etc as the water rose quicker than they expected. Major job and wonderful that someone cared enough to get the job down to preserve it. Lots to look at and read outside and throughout the rooms.

Found Steve watching a DVD about the dam etc in the ‘dining room’. Very interesting.

We continued on the road. A couple were coming out of the 4WD track up to a lookout but they said it was quite rough, steep and tight so we decided to skip it. Further along we turned off to have lunch by a billabong’ at Dead Horse Spring. No info and looking at the map, Spillway Creek is on the other side of the hills. No camping allowed here.

Further along we stopped to check out some aboriginal art - yeah for Wikicamps to tell us where as there are no signs other than the one at the cave entrance. We found a crocodile that we saw on the tourist video and another one on the opposite wall.

Back across Spillway Creek - looking downstream this time.

Back to the Victoria Highway then west to Kununurra. Rugged hill country. Lots of small communities along the way in the bush. A wedgie didn’t want to leave his fresh roo carcass just by the road - at least he didn’t decide to take off at the last moment.

Land opens up to grass and tall trees.

Stopped to check out a couple just off the road with their hazard lights on. They had run out of petrol with 10km to go. Steve drove the chap into town to get some while I waited with the lady by the car. Luckily it is cool today so no problems. They are from South Africa and I got her whole life story. She has been working in Australia as a nurse for a few years now and have just left work in Darwin to go to work in Bunbury. The chap was a friend from school and now they have gotten together after his wife passed away from cancer. He is not very handy apparently having grown up with servants etc. He didn’t listen to her when she said to top up the fuel in Timber Creek - silly. Her story was sad with the loss of her mother, brother than father and each time she was in Australia after just visiting them. The home farm was burnt down too so she is much happier to be living in Australia. The boys were gone long and they got the car going again. We followed them into town to the servo then waved farewell. I hope he listens now and fills up at every opportunity.

We went around to another servo which was a card one and only $2.05 whereas the other was $2.15 per litre. Eventually found the dump point and water tap at the original servo so got that job done. They have a great way of not losing the key to the dump point - Mr Croc.

I had sent off a text to Gary & Cheryl and Rod & Christine (who we met at Hidden Valley van park) to see where they were. Cheryl replied they were at Buttons Crossing just north on the Ord River so we will go and stay the night there with them.

Rang Uncle John to check how he was - all good though it is cold and wet at the moment.

Got some fruit and vegies from Coles. There is a lot missing but the lady said they had lots of pallets of stuff to put on the shelves but not enough staff to do it quickly enough. She said if we were looking for anything in particular she could go out and look for it. Great service considering they are so far behind. Got most of the things we wanted - no oranges or broccoli.

Headed north on the Ivanhoe Road over an irrigation channel with small green shoots in a field on one side and Sandalwood Tree farms on the other.

Slowed down as we neared Ivanhoe Crossing. This crossing has been photographed, videoed and droned by so many people so we just have to do it ourselves. It is also famous for crocs and barra.

It was only 4.30 but the sun was low and in our eyes as we went onto the crossing. I clicked away as Steve kept his eyes on the road - well the markers. Two crazy guys were fishing from it - hope we don’t knock them in.

There is a pull over bit then another smaller crossing to do. No problems at all.

Back up the hill and we continued along Parry Creek Road. There are boabs everywhere. Cheryl had sent through directions to where they were camped. Passed a Conservation area with two waterfalls we will check out tomorrow. Down the track and onto the river flood plain and back upstream and then onto wide riverstone rocks which are compacted and easy to drive on. Pulled up beside their camp and set up beside the river just as the sun set behind the hill.

Gary got the fire going and we settled in to catch up on what we have both been doing since Darwin. They are heading across the Gibb too. As it is quite crisp I got out my Grandfather’s port and we all toasted winter’s arrival and new friends we have made.

Back to the camper for dinner - I didn’t bother opening the windows when we set up so it was quite nice inside with the door fully closed too. We can hear the water rushing by too which is very relaxing. It is amazing how much flows by - seems a waste. Maybe they could pipe some of it to go south to drought areas. Shame the governments these days don’t want to commit to long term plans like the ones in the older days.

Dug out more winter woolies as I had checked the forecast and each low will be down to 13 to 15 and days up to 30.