Fri, 13th Jan, 2017 Pine Plantation, Ludlow Tuart Forest, Ludlow to Conto Campground, Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park, WA (exploring Margaret River area)

Cooler night alright, 18 degrees at 7.30am. Headed back to Busselton via the Port Geographe Marina Road which took us around the north end of Vasse Estuary to the coast.

This is a river surge barrier.

Running down beside the estuary on the left and the coast on the right.

Stopped at the dump point again and topped up with water – used our code from the other day to unlock all the locks.

Out to the Busselton Bypass then into the little village of Vasse to top up with fuel. Don’t need a gas cylinder so it is cheaper at the Gull Servo than the Coles Express. Interesting artwork on the corner. Didn’t stop to read the info plaque.

Down the Bussell Highway, through Cowaramup – lots of cows to check out here. Just entered Margaret River then turned west to the coast and then travelled down Caves Road to our campsite turnoff in the Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park, Conto Campground. The national park runs the full length of the coast (except for a bit near Prevelly) from Cape Naturaliste to Cape Leeuwin. You have to book online but then choose your campsite when you arrive. Set up for the next 3 nights. There is a big covered camp kitchen area and drop toilets.

Before lunch we drove down to the beach – or so we thought. It is 4km away and there are a few tracks – all corrugated of course since it is National Park!

Whaling was a main industry along these waters in the early years.

First track was to Conto Springs – didn’t find the springs but it looked like a nice beach though a bit of a hike to get to it.

The limestone ledge along the coast has lots of caves.

Next track heading south lead to Round Rock.

Had to wait a while for another big wave to crash on the rock.

Next stop was Merchant Rock. Dangerous fishing off the rocks around here too.

A rock was causing the waves to eddie around making a great swirl picture. Used the continuous shot for these.

Next was The Point. Looking north past Merchant Rock then up the coast.

A plaque marks Cape Freycinet named by Baudin in 1801.

Looking south to Hamelin Bay (I think).

Walked around the big rock for a view back to The Point.

At last we reached the end of the road and South Beach but it is a long walk yet to the beach!!

Back to the van for lunch then we headed off to explore the north bit above Conto (just under the Lakes Caves sign).

Up to Margaret River township along the Bussell Highway. The first European exploration of the Margaret River district occurred in the 1830s, when settlers from August travelled overland in search of more fertile farming land. During his 1831 expedition to the Vasse River, John Garrett Bussell of Augusta observed ‘several small streams – to the West’ and wrote in his journal: “one very large and in it a basin into which rapids fell about 15 yards across – very deep. We forded it at the rapids but no dry footed; this stream which rolls along much more water than the Vasse can never fail…”  It is believed he later named this river in honour of his cousin Margaret Wyche. Settlement in the Margaret River region began when John Bussell’s younger brother, Alfred and his wife, Ellen, established properties at Ellensbrook (1855) and Wallcliffe (1865). Other settlers soon followed taking up pastoral leases in the surrounding district.  Stopped at the Rotary Park on the banks of the Margaret River. Lots of walks to do.

Checked out ‘Kate’. Maurice Coleman Davies brought ‘Kate’ to Karridale (further south) in 1890 and he named it Kate after his daughter. Davies was granted a concession licence in 1878 to cut karri timber at Coodardup (now Kudardup), near Augusta. Timber would run on wooden rails from the mill to the winter port of Flinders Bay (August) or the summer port of Hamelin Bay. Davies’ operation at Karridale introduced the long length karri timber to the world. Settlers had to ford the Margaret River then the Burnside Bridge was built in 1878. Maurice then built a new bridge (below the current bridge) for traffic passing through the district to his mill settlement at Karridale. With travellers journeying from Busselton to Karridale and Augusta, Margaret River was soon operation as a wayside depot. Tom Higgins established the first residence and changing post for horses. In 1912 the townsite was surveyed and gazetted in 1913 with Higgin’s house operating as the local post office.

Walked across the bridge over the Margaret River, very brown with tannin - upstream then downstream.

Steve spotted some Marron (they are protected in this area and they must know it as there are heaps).

Across the river is the site of the old Group Settlement which has been restored. In 1921 the government introduced the Group Settlement Scheme. Designed to encourage immigrants to take up land in the south-west, the scheme subsidised the settlers’ land, stock and general agricultural costs. It was so successful and it was discontinued in 1930 though many of the settlers struggled on to make the town their home.

The blacksmith’s shop.

The Group House.

School House.

My batteries are going flat – will have to remember to carry spares (they are in the truck). The Hairy Marron and other river dwellers. The pouched Lamprey looks creepy.

Grabbed some groceries from Woolies then headed north to Adinfern Estate Winery. We met the couple who own it at Running Waters but didn’t get their names. Thought if we did one winery we would visit theirs. They used to run sheep but when the wool prices dropped then the lamb prices they went into wine. Licensee name – so we now know it is Merv and Jan Smith. Janis was behind the counter and we introduced ourselves and she remembered us which was nice. We tried a few white wines (all lovely) and I chose one then we tried some port (now called fortified wine as the Portugese have patented the name Port). They had a white one which was delicious and the traditional one, Campfire, so we got one of each. Nice bottle for the white one too. She said they had 20,000 sheep and still have a few thousand. Mervyn got a diploma in making wine (whatever that was called) and the rest is history. They even have a couple of cottages for people to stay in. She highlighted some sights for us on my map and said to make sure we visit Leeuwin and Voyager Estates as their gardens are amazing. Chatted with Merv as we headed out with our goodies.

Next stop was Cowaramup, lots of dairy cows in the fields and lining the street. The town’s name means ‘place of cowara’ which is the aboriginal work for the purple-crowned lorikeet – but the town as embraced the dairy industries hence the cows everywhere.

Cute little church in the Pioneer Park.

Jan had said to check out the ‘Rump on a Stump’. We said we had seen a girl on a pole in front of one of the wineries up north and she said that lady didn’t get council permission to erect it so it became known as the ‘chick on a stick’ and this one is a copy of that. It is actually called ‘Free as a Cow’ by the artist. It was part of the Cow Parade (we saw lots of them in Perth).

This town started as a Group Settlement town too like Margaret River.

The 23 Mile Well.

Walked down the main street – lots of yummy things here too – chocolate, fudge, icecreams but we were good!! A memorial garden to the settlers of this area.

Around the corner was more history and information about how the cows came to be.

From here we headed west to Gracetown on the coast. Very popular holiday destination, Jan said this is where they swim in summer. On the rise before descending into the township we pulled into a National Parks Lookout called North Point.

Great view north (lots of surfing spots along the coast) then over the rocky point. Got a good wave action shot.

Walked to the other side for a view over Gracetown and the bay and South Point.

Drove into the town and around to watch all the surfers catching the waves off Huzza’s Beach.

 They are a fit lot as the car parks are normally a long way from their surf spot and then there are all the stairs to get down to the beach, let alone all that paddling!! 

A memorial to a lot of people of various ages - says cliff tragedy. So sad.

Followed the track along the cliff top.

Stopped at a lookout, called Volunteers Rest.

Looking back at North Point.

Next clearing was the site of the tragic cliff accident in 1996. So, so sad to think all those people were happily watching family and friends surfing below us and the cliff above them came crashing down on them. Hence the Volunteers Rest site as there so many people helping to rescue those trapped.

Looking back over Huzza’s Beach to the stairs you can see the limestone ridge sticking out.

Up to the houses at the top of the ridge – fabulous views from here.

Back to Caves Road then south past a venison farm. Lots of little bambies.

Turned back to the coast to Ellensbrook – one of the homes of Alfred and Ellen Bussell. The site is under the National Trust and you can view the house during normal hours for a gold coin and wander around the gardens anytime. We are too late for the house (after 5pm) so we wandered through the grounds down to the house.

An old water wheel at the other end of the house near the creek.

The site where the water wheel once stood in 1948 on the other side of the building.

Followed the channel upstream to the weir.

The water was fed into the channel via this pipe.

Back to the house I peered in the end room where there was some information. Might come back and have a proper look inside.

Followed the trail to Meekadarribee Falls. Getting a bit cool now – should have brought a jumper!! Mr lizard is enjoying the warmth of the pavers. Nice easy walk.

Nice pool under the rock which had a book called “Ellen’s Diary” which told the story of their arrival here and the aboriginal story of this pool.

Followed the track around the hill where you could see a dry creek bed then we heard the sound of falling water. It must be coming off the top of the hill and dribbling down the side and through a cave to the pool on the other side. Quite intriguing. Took photos of the water cascading down – have to peer through the reeds.

Looks like a cave goes behind where the water is coming down.

We are on part of the Cape to Cape track.

Walked back to the pool – the water fall is on the other side of the ridge.

Heard a lot of buzzing as we passed this recently chopped log. Lots of bees making honey.

Back to the truck then around to the beach access. Someone thinks Umbies Surf spot is the best.

Out to the coast and there is a memorial to a chap taken by a shark at Umbies in 2013.

Great view from south to north with lots of rock pools below us.

Should have packed some dinner as it is after 6pm!! Back onto Caves Road then we crossed a dry Ellens Brook. I spotted an interesting entrance and made Steve turn around. It is private property with a fabulous big stone entrance that I could only get a glimpse of as we slowly drove past. Would be interesting to see the house if that is just the front entrance.

Crossed the Margaret River and the turn off to Prevelly but we will to that another day – too late now. Back to Conto Road but as it is nearly sunset we drove down to the coast for a photo or two. Took one from the top then Steve thought it would be better from Merchant Rock so headed down the road.

It would have been but I had to run out onto the rock and by then it was too far down and the camera got a bit fuzzy when I put it on continuous mode.

Freezing and hungry we got back to the van for a quick dinner and hot shower.