Sun, 27th March, 2022 Nitmiluk (Katherine Gorge) National Park campground, Katherine to camp spot by Edith River, south of Pine Creek, NT (Katherine Gorge walk)

Set alarm for 5.30 but it was very dark so we waited till 6am to get up. Had breakfast then headed off in the cool to walk to a couple of lookouts and the Southern Rockhole for a swim. There a big signs with traditional names but we figured that we were heading the right way as a timber national parks sign near the carpark said ‘arrow’ to Southern Walks which we wanted. Two ladies were at the info board so we just kept following the path through tall grass.

It wound its way up the side of the hill - will be three times the length if we just walked straight up but it is nice and gradual. Crossed over a dry creek bed.

Then we came to a wide ‘road’ where a lady on a mountain bike was looking at a map on her phone to work out which way to go. We spotted a yellow arrow marker and figured that must be the national parks’ markers though the yellow one is for the loop track. The big ones are just for the mountain bikers hence the names didn’t match up with the map I had. Very confusing.

We continued up the ‘road’ then passed one of the info displays. I had seen a few gum trees with salmon trunks and this confirmed they are Salmon Gums but seem to be thinner variety to the ones around Norseman etc in WA.

We kept wandering along enjoying the bush and the rocky escarpments with the creek bed beside us.

We came to a cross road and worked out the national park signs versus the new mountain bike ones so we were all good now. We will follow the green arrow. Great photo of the Southern Rockhole in the wet - it is nearly at the end of its season now but there is still a trickle of water coming over it hence we are allowed to go there.

Continued along taking photos here and there.

Eventually we came to a new hut area put in by the MTB Trails group. There even tools and a pump provided.

The lady on the mountain bike caught up to us and we were overtaken by another lady jogging - one of the staff. We walked out to the rocky platform which is Pat’s Lookout. Spectacular view. We can just make out rapids through the trees. (Didn’t realise till I uploaded the photo there is someone walking on the rocks so that must be the top of the first gorge.)

We can hear voices from below where the rockhole is down in the valley.

Continued on to Jedda’s Rock. Lots of flat rock around here - great for making seats.

Great view from here. You can see a boat which is at the bottom of the next gorge. There is a 400m walk to get from one boat to the next.

Kept walking till we found another sign pointing us to Jedda’s Rock. Another spectacular view.

Walked back a bit and out to the ledge for another great view. You can just see the stairs to get on the boat for this second gorge. We did the boat cruise 30 years ago but they also have a jet boat ride in the wet season when the river is flowing well and above the rock ledges which sounds like fun. I did a jet boat ride in New Zealand on the Shotover River and that was fantastic.

Walked back to near Pat’s Lookout to follow the track down to the Southern Rockhole - a half kilometre walk. The jogging staffer was coming up and we chatted about where the Katherine River flows too - she didn’t know but will find out now. The mountain bike lady met us and said it was worth the effort. The trail meandered downward, past a valley then water holes which flow down to the a pool which the waterfall comes from and into the pool below. We just had to walk around and down steps to eventually reach a dry creek bed below. Then scramble over the rocks till we came to a lovely open pool. Another two couples were here.

There is just enough water flowing over to keep the pool water clean. Lots of black bream too. We climbed in and the water temperature was perfect. Steve swam to the base of the waterfall to have a ‘shower’. There are a few rocks here and there to stand on. The other chap went down and reckons it is about 10 foot deep in the middle.

We had some muesli bars and my anzac cookies so the fish enjoyed the museli bars and we had the cookies. 

More people arrived and a lady with a couple of kids who must live in Katherine as they were straight up on the rock jumping into the water. The ferry arrived and more people walked up from the river. After the walk down we decided a nice ferry ride back would be a perfect finish ($15 each) as we were nice and cool now. 

Put our boots back on and followed the trail back down over the rocks to the river. The water from the pool must go underground or something as it is flowing out here at the river.

Looking upstream then zoomed in. Then downstream.

I showed Steve a track I found in the sand near the mouth of the creek and he agreed it was a little croc going from the river to the creek but we couldn’t see him anywhere in the pool. You aren’t allowed to swim in the river.

The ferry arrived and we boarded. The guide had to walk back up to the pool to chase up a chap and his son that was booked on the 10.30 ferry.

It was very nice sitting back and enjoying the view.

The lookout where we stood last night.

Nearly back to the boat ramp area - looking up 17 Mile Creek.

Walked back to the Info Centre to pay for our ferry ride. Had the same lady serve us from yesterday and I commented about the confusing trail signs. She said she was going to mention it to the National Parks as another couple had gotten very confused and wandered for a long time obviously on the mountain bike track and got very hot and bothered.

Back to the camper for a late cuppa. Ray and Carol had rung as they are getting ready to head to WA in a couple of weeks via the Nullabor. Hopefully we will meet them in the middle somewhere. We packed up and headed back into Katherine for lunch so we can watch some of the highlights of the Supercars racing in Tassie this weekend. Also better signal to upload my blog.

Across the Katherine River which has flood markers on the rail bridge as we head out of town.

Storm clouds are building as we continued north towards Edith Falls which is on the north section of this national park. A shower of rain must have just fallen in front of us as there is plenty of water on the road. Further along we caught up with the rain just where the road workers were setting up to put now lines on the road - not today chaps.

Passed the turn off into Edith Falls as we had seen a couple on the you-tube show camping alongside Edith River so we continued on to check it out. We crossed the river then turned onto the old road and found the river and the old bridge.

Found a nice spot and set up camp. Had a cuppa watching the little fish (striped and perch) nibble on the old muesli bar.

Three Rainbow Bee Eaters were zooming around in the tree opposite and a hawk was soaring above us. 

Two cars of locals came down and along the bridge to the rock platform on the other side and had a dip while we were having drinks by the water’s edge. I have started reading ‘We of the Never Never’ - very interesting and having just been there I can relate to it all especially when she mentions the flooding rivers they had to cross from Pine Creek to the homestead.

After they left we went for a wander downstream where there is a big rock platform which I thought was just sand. A storm is building and we can hear thunder rumbling.

We walked up to the bridge and over - looking upstream.

The main road isn’t too far away (you can see the white truck going by) so we can hear the trucks go by but it is quieter than being in a rest area right beside the road.

We picked up the rubbish left around. At least the latest visitors didn’t leave anything behind.

We sat outside till some mosquitoes made us retreat and the clouds have covered the stars so no satellite spotting tonight. Lightning is flashing to the north now.

We had dinner then played cards but the little bugs had managed to get in again driving us mad and the humidity is very high making us very sticky even with the fans on full. We turned on another light over the toilet so that drew the bugs there but I will have a mess to clean up in the morning when they are all dead. Will try putting a light in the tree tomorrow night to see if that keeps them away from us. Love the bush but not so keen on the flies and bugs!!