Tues, 26th April, 2022 Bayside Holiday Apartments, Broome, WA (History tour & Cable Beach camel ride)

Had a good night sleep though we are still ‘rolling’ a bit.

Met Will Thomas at Town Beach under a boab tree.

Another couple from the cruise (can’t remember their names) joined us for the history walking tour. We had a book that we looked at when he was talking about various spots.

He said he had taken out a man to one of the flyingboat wrecks and it was very emotional as the man was the young boy who was shot in the leg but managed to survive. He still had his shorts with the bullet hole. It is hard to imagine when we have such a beautiful scene in front of us what it would have been like with the bombs dropping and the explosions out on the water. The photo shows Broome on the left, Dampier Creek and the plumes of smoke from the bombed planes.

Will told us so much which is hard to record here but we are going to the Museum at the end so a lot will be repeated there I imagine. He has stories of different things like the lost diamonds and the different characters of the area. Very fascinating. Further around from Town Beach is the ‘upper class’ area now but it was an abatoir back in the day so the bay they look out onto would have been full of blood and offal etc so no good for swimming. There was a steel enclosure at Town Beach because of that - to keep out the sharks. One lady though lost an arm as a Tiger Shark got in or did she have her arm out over the fence - can’t remember.

The people memorial we saw near the carpark had only been opened recently. There was to be a big event commemorating 80 years since the attacks on the 3^rd March, 1942 but with Covid it was scaled down.

This is what Broome was all about though - the pearl shells. The pearls themselves were a by-product to start with. Good if you got one of course but it went straight into a locked box to be given to the Master Pearler who was usually relaxing on the verandah of his big home while the workers were out getting the pearl shell. This picture shows a man grading the shells according to quality to be bagged ready to ship overseas.

Amazing to think of all the luggers that lined these shores and how many were lost with cyclones etc. We walked down onto the sandy area near the mangroves where the luggers were left. The mangroves weren’t here then as they would have been cleared out to house the luggers.

This is the remains of the one in the photo. Will says it is always amazing what he finds each time he visits (this is his first tour this year) after the changes in tides etc. The newer steel cable etc aren’t from the old time but we found the original chain, nails and rusty bits and pieces. Even glass from the divers helmet - very thick and parts of the air hose.

We continued along the foreshore that would have been lined with homes as in this picture. There were lots of old bottles and the remains of concrete and steel supports for the foreshore. He has one cordial bottle with the marble in it which is worth a bit nowadays as the kids always broke the bottles to get the marble out. This is a beer bottle - much like the champagne bottles now. The mangroves have come back after been cleared out. Another old big of chain.

It certainly looks different from the old days.

He told us the real story about the woman statue. Sadly it shows a pregnant aboriginal woman who was holding up the pearl shell for the workers on the ship to take. Back in the very early stages the aborigines were used to collect the shell. First the shell was everywhere and the men just picked it up from the shore then then had to go out into the shallows so they made the aborigines do this. Then they had to go out a bit deeper. If they came up empty-handed they were beaten and sent back down again so they always came up with something to show they had made it to the bottom. Women were used as they had good lungs and apparently pregnant women had better lungs so they would steal the women, get them pregnant and when they were of no use just leave them somewhere to fend for themselves. This was the time of Blackbirding. Very sad times but of course we all know better now. Once they had to go deeper in the water to get the pearl shell then the aborigines were left and others were brought in to dive for them.

Across the road was Bourne & Inglis. Sad to see it is in disrepair. Not sure if it is being fixed up or torn down.

This photo was taken from the verandah of the shop.

This was one of the Master Pearler’s homes with the big push out windows to help keep it cool and to also protect it from cyclones.

With our minds reeling from all the stories we finished at the Museum which was the Customs House (1910-1979) where Will went through the pictures out front.

Inside he finished his tour talking about the diving equipment etc.

He also showed us this gun from one of the flyingboats which a friend had been cleaning up using electrolysis etc. It has just been put on display this week. It is amazing to see the bullet that was still in it from when it was being used to shoot back at the Japanese Zeros.

We thanked Will then wandered around for a bit reading some of the boards - a lot repeating the stories Will told us so that will save my memory. Especially the story of the diamonds.

This gun, which should be mounted as it would be too hot to hold when firing, was used by Gus Winckel to shoot down one of the Zeros. Will had told us the story how Kudo had flown low over Winckel and gave him a wave. Kudo and his plane were never recovered.

Lots to read so we will come back tomorrow using our pass as it was lunch time and it had been very hot outside. We decided to go back to the apartment for lunch.

We waited with the others outside Matso’s for the bus to take us to Cable Beach. We had our camel ride booked for 3.40pm with Sun Camels - one of the first ones to start taking rides along the beach. An aborigine came along with some carved boab seeds to sell. Judy decided she would like one as a memento and he had done a great job. At least he is doing something constructive while he sits under the trees.

We got out at the carpark - near where we parked in Dec 2019 on our way home. Walked out to look over the beach.

We walked down to the beach. We should have brought our togs for a swim later - oh well, next time. The crabs have been busy.

The other cruise guests we had lunch with yesterday yelled out to us from up top.

Plenty of rock slabs in the section near where the vehicles are allowed onto the beach.

Spotted a hole in the sandstone so went behind to take a photo.

We walked up onto the top of the sand dune and spotted where the camel rides departed from. People were setting up on the beach ready to watch the sun set later.

Looking back the other way to Gantheaume Point where the dinosaur footprints are. Another thing to check out when we return.

Oops someone forgot to turn their hubs in - took this for Ray. Maybe he needs a Nissan to pull him out.

The Blue camels arrived. We sat under the shade of some trees waiting for the red ones to come along.

Gave up waiting and headed over to let the staff know we were here. At last the Red ones came around the rocks. Apparently the front boy wasn’t in the mood to move today so the lady just about had to drag him the whole way - over 4km walk from where they are housed.

We were on the second camel - Burke who is 800kg and 20 years old. We went up on the back of the ute then swung our leg over and then he moved along. Much better than getting on when they are down and having the big lean forward and back then they stand up like I remember the kids doing at a fun day the Cairns Council put on once. There is only one female - of course all the males have been fixed up. Once everyone was on we headed off with a lady walking alongside telling us information about the camels etc. The lady leading the ‘caravan’ also told us interesting bits and pieces about the camels and how they look after them etc. It was very relaxing.

As we headed back the staff used our cameras to take photos which was great.

A lugger has been restored and takes people out for sunset cruises.

Back to the start and we had a slow turn around to line up beside the ute to get off. My legs felt I had been riding for hours - bit widespread. The road was busy with cars too but they all had to stop for the camels. Not exhilarating but no less a thing that I had on my bucket list - ticked.

We went back around to the main area looking for somewhere to get a drink. The main restaurant and cafe was closed. I am amazed there aren’t more little shops here since there are so many people coming to watch the camels and the sunset. Found a bust for Robert McAlpine who was instrumental in transforming Broome in the 80s.

We went into the Sunset Bar & Grill for a drink to wait for the sun to drop. A few of the other cruise guests wandered by saying hi. We rang Jon for a chat - he has been offered the job as Driller Offsider to work at Lawn Hill. Exciting times ahead for him and Annalise. Tried Dan but no answer so left a message.

We watched the lugger meander its way along the beach waiting for the sunset too. Made for a great photo.

                    

As the sun dropped we walked across to a seat near the track down onto the beach. Lots of people enjoying the beach.

We watched the sun drop into the sea. Luckily it sets about 5.30 as the last bus back is at 6.15pm.

Now the crazy scramble as everyone comes off the beach in the 4WD section.

We walked along the beach then back up to the bus stop and waited. The driver is very fast but we made it back in one piece.