Sat, 23rd Nov, 2019 Hamelin Pool Van Park, Shark Bay to Big Lagoon camp, Francois Peron National Park, Shark Bay, WA (exploring Denham area)

6am 19.8 degrees and clear sky. Early start as we are heading north to check out Francois Peron National Park. The NP office gave us permission to leave the van in the carpark of the old homestead and will let the Ranger know we will be in the park for 3 nights. The park has a lot of soft sand so we can’t take the van with us. We unloaded stuff out of the truck and set it up again for us to live out of there and when we go to Steep Point too.

Nice entrance sign.

Around the south edge of Hamelin Pool with flat salt bushes.

Past the turn off to Steep Point – will go there on our way out of Shark Bay.

Up a red sand hill – they say Shark Bay is where the red desert sands meet the sea.

Nice view (too hard to photograph though) back over Hamelin Pool which is huge and we would call it a bay. It is called a pool as there is a natural bar across the north end of it which limits the water flow in and out of the area.

Continued on through low shrubs in the red sand and dry salt pans covered in little salt bushes as we crossed the south end of the Nango Peninsula.

Passed the turn off to Nango Bay which was once a pastoral lease but is now a holiday resort and the rest was bought for conservation, which is on the south-west side of the peninsula – see the map.

Turned off to check out Shell Beach Conservation Park. Checked out the information boards. We won’t be swimming here as the sea water is the same as Hamelin Pool – twice as salty as normal sea water and the tide is out.

They have erected a vermin fence to try and protect this peninsula’s wildlife.

More information about shells being used as building blocks. There is a shell quarry on the other side of the vermin fence.

Walked down on the wide white shell covered beach.

I found some shells to photograph.

Looking over L’haridon Bight which is also protected by the Faure Sill to the north.

Walked along the beach to the vermin fence. Lots of other shells here too.

The Hamelin Cockle is hard here – ready to make some bricks.

The vermin fence.

Looking back down the beach.

Up over a rise which is a small spit that divides Shell Beach from the next beach and gives a nice view over L’haridon Bight.

Past the turn off into Goulet Bluff. One of 4 council camp areas along this west coast but you can only spend one night at only one of them for $15. They are certainly protecting the caravan parks in Denham.

Continued along the drive to a lookout over the west bay as we start up the Peron Peninsula. The hard rock here is called Tamala Limestone. Didn’t see any ‘no camping’ signs here!

The land on the other side is the next peninsula over which is part of the Steep Point area.

Spotted some black and cream goats on this side of the vermin fence – obviously they haven’t been caught yet. There were a couple of cute ‘kids’ with them too.

Just as we got back onto the main road Steve spotted 3 emus in the bush – I missed them.

We turned off again to check out another camping area called Whalebone Bay as we might stop here on the way back out. Nice white bluff at the other end. There is another one called Fowlers Camp and then Eagle Bluff which has a boardwalk to check out later.

Crossed the 26^th Parallel line. We have crossed this line heaps of times this year.

Two emus decided to wander across the road – Steve slowed down and one crossed before the other cars reached us. The other one went back the other way.

Turned onto another dirt track for a great view from Denham Lookout. Zoomed in on the salt mine at a place called Useless Loop. Not sure if it is operational as there is no information about it in the brochures. The boats are moored out away from Denham. Denham is the most westerly settlement of Australia and was originally a pearling camp named ‘Freshwater Camp’. It later developed into a township that serviced the pearling, pastoral and fishing industries of Shark Bay. It was proclaimed a town site on 3 May 1898 and later named ‘Denham’ after Captain Henry Mangles Denham of the Royal Navy. Denham’s streets were once paved with pearl shells but of course as the town grew they put bitumen over the shells.

Down by the beach is the Thong Shack so we drove down for a look while we had a cuppa. Obviously someone started it by collecting the ‘lost’ thongs then it became a place for people to leave their calling cards.

Lots of shells on the beach.

I found a pair of old thongs and decided we should leave our calling card too.

Headed into Denham. Four wind turbines were slowing going around. Nice entrance sign – famous for all the seagrass here and the dugongs.

We pulled up to check out the information. Someone is digging out the red sand.

History information, lots of shipwrecks and lovely beaches. The Peron Station was right in the middle of the town. The town’s drinking water is desalinated artesian water.

Drove down to the water front then turned left and drove to the end which looks back to the lookout we were just at. The beach isn’t quite as pretty as on the information board – we obviously time it when the sea grass is breaking up.

We pulled up and when I got out I spotted Daddy emu with his 6 chicks eating the berries off this bush right by the road. We had heard they are very friendly and wander all over the town. I took a video of them.

Great aerial photo of Denham from the brochure.

Put on our hats and headed off to follow the town history walk. It is sunny and warm but the breeze is nice.

Great playground.

Seagrass is a bit of a problem on the boat ramp.

More emus.

Shiny boards make it hard to read in the bright sunshine. The Malgana Aborigines called this area Gutharraguda which means Two Waters – because of the two protected bays.

Continued back along the esplanade reading the signs.

This sculpture is in front of a swimming area.

As I walked past the shelter I realised there was a face of an aborigine on the wall. Obviously to do with the next information board we read about the local aborigines.

An old pearling lugger has come back home to Denham – interesting story. Now it is just a resting place for the sea gulls and cormorants.

The last one on the foreshore. William Dampier named the area Sharks Bay in 1699 as he mostly saw sharks.

We walked up the rise to the site of the old police station, gaol and stables. The station has gone but the gaol and stables are still at the back.

Up the hill and across to Pioneer Park – the site of Shark Bay’s first cemetery. There is only one grave left here and the war memorial has been added to the park. Also there is a memorial to the early navigators and the rock that Dampier etched his name into.

The frangipani trees’ leaves are so glossy and the flowers smell wonderful.

Nice view across the water too.

More emus are wandering around people’s yards.

The church made of shells.

Back down to the foreshore. A park has been created in honour of a local chap.

We skipped the Discovery and Information Centre – will do that when we return.

The most western restaurant in Australia is also made of shells, The Old Pearler. Unfortunately it wasn’t open so we just peered in the windows.

Across the road is a new tavern and hotel which replaced the old Pearler’s Rest.

Up the road was the site of the old Peron Station homestead and shearing sheds etc.

Had lunch then bought some bait and a yummy ice-cream. You could really taste the mango. Denham is a lovely little town and it is really cute having the emus wandering around.

Headed out of town and up to Nicholson Point lookout. Took a video of the view.

Little Lagoon’s creek flows out to the sea.

Drove to the other end of it. Looking across the Lagoon to the sea in the distance.

Down to the day use area. These lagoons (gypsum clay pans) are called Birridas.

Continued along the road to Monkey Mia – we aren’t worrying about going there as we have seen heaps of dolphins and they only select one person to feed them any case. We heard there are only two dolphins coming in to feed at the moment.

Turned off the bitumen onto the dirt road into Francois Peron National Park. Stopped at the ‘pay station’ and dropped out entrance fee of $15 and $11 each per night into the box. We have paid for three nights. At least you don’t have to book a campsite here like we will have to do for Steep Point. Road corrugated but not bad.

I tried to get a photo of a dry birrida – salt pan.

Over a rise – looking down on the Peron Station homestead precinct. It is now a museum looked after by the National Park. It was bought by the government in 1990.

We parked and went for a look around. The museum was closed but there was some information around the back. Looks like we have some lovely places to explore.

Will follow the Pepper Trail though first we wanted to check out the artesian hot tub. It is hot, 40 degrees.

Wandered along the trail reading all the information.

Around to the shearing shed etc.

Time for some dinner, then a bath.

Shearers’ quarters – flow through ventilation.

Back around to the shearing shed – last sign about a shelter place for the sheep. Needs a roof. The signs were very informative.

Heard a noise and spotted three kangaroos trying to get away from us. They all tried to jump the fence but crashed instead. Eventually they jumped off along the fence-line.

Chose a spot to leave the van and finished setting the truck up for our 3 night stay. Took a photo in case it isn’t here when we return!

3pm - Went for a dip in the hot tub. Got Steve to try it out first.

Then he got hold of the camera – I have deleted a lot of his photos, ‘not for publication’. After the initial heat hitting your skin it was very nice.

Just when you think you have the place to yourself, more people arrived. Dried off then drove around to the air down area. A 4WD with van was in front of us – so much for leaving our van behind. The National Parks provide the air hoses here. Steve chose to use his own.

We got in front of the van and bounced our way over the corrugations for 2km to the turn off to Big Lagoon where we will camp tonight. Lots of emu tracks in the red sand. A rabbit darted across – obviously they haven’t removed all the ‘vermin’ from the national park.

10km down to the campground. Some bits where soft on the corners but we could have got the van in here. Sites 1 to 7 are by the edge of the lagoon and were all full – more vans.  There was a site that said Camp Host but we decided to go around to the next level up the hill and chose a spot there. Hard surface so shouldn’t get sprayed with sand from the strong wind blowing. Good view across the lagoon too.

Poured ourselves a drink then wandered down to the lagoon. Two goats ran across the boat launching area and headed back into the bush. Nice big platform area for the day use visitors with BBQs, tables and shelter sheds. We always laugh how the day use people get the best facilities and only pay the $15 to drive in but if you camp you have to pay more and walk further to use the BBQs etc.

Interesting picnic table at the end of the platform.

A chap was making the most of the strong wind.

Onto the beach – more sea grass.

Looking back up to our truck. At least there is a toilet nearby so we won’t have to use our Thunder Bucket.

Walked further around. Red sand dune reaches the water.

I checked out the water temperature – not too cold.

Between the beach and the camp sites are a few of these viewing platforms. Nice spot to view the sunset from.

Walked back up to the truck and got dinner ready as the sun started to set. Very pretty. The sun is setting after 7pm now.

A text came through from Mickey showing the results of today’s Supercar race in Newcastle. She was happy Gizzy won.

Nice sitting outside watching the stars appear. The Southern Cross has disappeared but the big and little dippers are visible now. About 8.30 we spotted some satellites. One mosquito buzzed around my ear but he didn’t have any friends.

Had a sponge bath then climbed into bed pulling the door down to keep out the wind. Read our books for a while listening to the wind whistling outside.