Sunday, 29 December 2019

Sun, 15th Dec, 2019 Bow River Rest Area near Turkey Creek, WA to King River Rest Area, south of Katherine, NT



6am 34 degrees, light breeze and mostly clear sky. Two years ago I was showing Kaylene the sights around Margaret River – bit cooler there, max 23 and min 13. Now we are 41 max and 34 min!

Took a photo of our camp spot before heading off.



Across Bow River – a few puddles of water in the rocky sections.


Balancing rock on top of Mt Nyulasy. Near here is the turn off into the Argyle Diamond Mine.


Much nicer scenery with all the hills. Lots of horses about.


Big boab in Marchfly Creek – doesn’t sound like a good spot to camp.


O’Donnell Range to our left.

Passed a couple of small aboriginal communities well away from the towns. They might be more interested in looking after ‘country’.

The mountains continue with grass and gumtrees.

Passed Doon Doon Roadhouse. A fire is burning in the hills to the east.

Driving beside a high range then we dropped down to 145m elevation onto wide flat grass plains. Spotted some pandanus palms – Steve said now we are in the tropics.

Over the Dunham River which is dry (111m elevation) (no photo) then a single lane bridge over Arthur Creek.

Stopped at a t-intersection – left to Wyndam and the Gibb River Road and right to Kununarra on the Victoria Highway. We headed to Kununarra. Up and down some rises then onto wide plains between two ranges. Nice view as we near Kununarra.

Plenty of water in this section of the Dunham River.

Across the Ord River Diversion Dam. Lots of greenery – even a house boat.






Past the airport then over one of the Ord River irrigation channels.

These boabs do look like bottle trees.

Into town to fill up with diesel. The fuel app on my phone is really good.

Down the road a bit to the Celebrity Tree Park by Lily Lagoon. A big water hole off the Ord River. Had an early cuppa.

Drove around the top end of Lily Lagoon as we headed out of town which looks nice and clean.

Continued east – 510km to Katherine, NT. Left the hills behind – back to grass and some trees.

Fire has burnt a big area either side of the road – nice green shoots in contrast to the black tree trunks.

Back into rocky hills. Clear sky. Passed the turn off to Lake Argyle.

Big hill ahead as we reach the border. Farewell Western Australia – will be back to finish off the top end one day.


Into Northern Territory. Steve went ‘Get real’ when he saw the 130km/h speed limit. To start with they need to upgrade the road!

Must have rained recently as the little creeks have water in them. Open grass/tree cattle country and lots of big boabs.

Nice escarpments. Went through a willy willy which showered us with dust and leaves.

Slowly descended to 15m elevation as we pass through lots of flood plains. Water and ducks in King Billabong near Bulla which is an aboriginal community.

Three donkeys were enjoying the shade of a big boab as everything else is burnt.

Passed the turn off up to explorer Gregory’s cairn and tree in the top end of the Judbarra/Gregory National Park. There are gorges to explore around here.

Someone has put climbing rungs up the side of this boab.

Pulled into a parking area beside the Bradshaw Bridge over the Victoria River. Across the bridge is the Defence Training area called Bradshaw Field (named after the station there) which covers a big area north of here. Checked out the river (downstream then upstream) – can’t see any crocodiles. From here the river flows out to the Joseph Bonaparte Gulf above the WA/NT border.



A quick lunch in the van, 42 degrees.

Lots of lookouts etc to explore later. Continued on to Timber Creek. A little place with police station, van park, houses and roadhouse. There is a history trail so will have to check it out later.

A narrow bit of the Victoria River.

Nice scenery.


Passed the turn off the dirt Buchanan Highway which goes south-east and across to the Stuart Highway. We had thought of going this way to cut off a few miles but didn’t want to chance the dirt roads with the storms about which are building ahead of us. Steve is talking to the clouds to give us a good shower of rain to wash some of the salt etc off the truck and van.

Forgot to check the elevation at Timber Creek but we have climbed to 103m as we head east.

Slow climb up through the hills to 160m then continued up and down hills. Sharp drop down to 46m at the east section of Judbarra-Gregory National Park. A big sign warns of crocodiles so no swimming in the river.

Checked my phone and it has changed to Northern Territory time so at 1.50pm WA time it is now 3.18pm – time to stop for a cuppa!!

Back near the Victoria River again. Escarpments are nice and a few gorges appearing as we run along the edge of the river.

Across the Don Darben Bridge over the Victoria River near the Roadhouse – who stole the water. The rivers’ upper reaches are south of here and start near Riveren Station (off the Buntine Highway) that I read about in Terry Underwood’s story of her life (In the Middle of Nowhere) with her husband on that station. It was an amazing read. I would love to go there one day.



Big escarpment has tall palms on the side like the ones we saw at the Bungle Bungles – I think they were Livingstone Palm.


Steve is excited – his chat with the clouds worked. Enough rain to put the wipers on normal speed but it didn’t last long.

Another shower as we left the National Park area. The ant hills here are little black mounds.

Elevation up to 224m then we drop down to 178m  as we cross Brandy Bottle Creek which had some water in it. I wonder what story is behind that creek’s name.

Passed the turn off to a cairn and the Buchanan Highway which goes south-east and across to the Stuart Highway. We had thought of going this way to cut off a few miles but didn’t want to chance the dirt roads with the storms about.

We could smell the lovely ‘rain smell’ as the water hits the pavement but then it was replaced by smoke. We couldn’t see anything but could definitely smell it.

Dark cloud out front had a big flash of lightning go across it. I kept staring for more but no more flashes.

Stopped for a cuppa on WA time. Will change the clocks over tonight then start tomorrow on NT time. Sat outside as the recent showers of rain has knocked the heat out of the air so it was cooler outside than in the van. Chatted with a couple from Darwin heading across to the Bungle Bungles, Kalbarri and Coral Bay with their 3 daughters – the littlest was eyeing off the muddy puddle nearby.

We continued north-east towards Katherine. The anthill t-shirt brigade have been here too.

Spotted a couple of wedge-tailed eagles – NT ones.

Last time we were in Katherine was 27 years ago when Daniel was 3 years old. We filled up with diesel at the United Fuel place. The chap asked if I had a Woolies card which I did and he gave me another 4 cents off which was very nice.

Continued along the Stuart Highway south. More lightning flashing in the dark clouds ahead of us. Some very big flashes too and then some drops of rain.

Steve’s storm chasing worked as we are driving straight into it and the heavy rain came down. That should cool things down in the van.

A massive lightning strike straight in front of us – as long as it doesn’t hit us I think it is marvelous to see.

Pulled into King River South Rest Area to park up for the night. No one else is here so we parked to the back near a water tank. Lots of birds are tweeting after the rain. Opened up the van, 32.8 degrees, yeah. Just light enough to take our camp photos.


5.30pm WA time therefore drinks time, though that is 7pm NT. Will mean we will lose an hour and half sleep time as we will set the clocks and get up in NT time.

Nice and quiet – only a couple of trucks have come by while we watched a movie after dinner. Had to pull out the fan though as the coolness has gone and now it is hot and sticky.



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