Tues, 3rd Dec, 2019 Outback Oasis Van Park, Carnarvon to Point Quobba campground, north of Carnarvon, WA (Space Centre & Blowholes)

7am 26.5 degrees, clear sky and no wind.

Parked in Robinson Street – got a photo of its width – room to turn camel trains.

Met Ed and his fiancé Heather for a cuppa. They are getting married on the 18^th January next year, 51 years after their were first married on that date in 1969. Heather showed me a photo of their first wedding day. Sad story but wonderful they are back together again. Ed forgot the coffee shop he chose is closed on Tuesday. He wanted to go there as he made the fabulous timber tables. I took a photo through the window. He loves his woodwork and sells items at the markets. He signs them Ed Wood. We walked further along to the next café.

Ed was here in the early days working at the Tracking Station in the 1970s and he has heaps of stories. I said he needs to write it all down as it was fascinating. One time the Casshorn Antenna which they call the ‘sugar scoop’ was being used to track and move a satellite into orbit when they were hit with a storm and a lightning strike hit the main generating plant so they couldn’t move the dish around. The gearbox also failed so they had to use a Toyota with a winch to pull it up and down and then pull on the stay wires to turn it. They did this for the next four days or so till the satellite was in the correct orbit – Aussie ingenuity at its best.

He was also in the Navy and had some great stories about that too. Especially when a shell was loaded incorrectly into the big gun and caused it to jam. It was because they swapped guns and the left turret guys had to practice in the right turret which they have to lift and swing the parts in a different direction hence the shell was placed in backwards. The projectile was a separate thing and then a sailor hit a button (breach loader) to push them together into the barrel of the gun. Luckily they were only practicing and had time to be able to work out how to get it back out again.

He was a town councillor till just recently and has many interesting stories to tell. Especially about creating the two memorials at the end of the street for the HMAS Sydney II and the HSK Kormoran. Also there was a memorial drive (alternate route into town) where they tried to grow palm trees with a plaque for each of the 645 sailors that drowned. He and a couple of other people got all the plaques, cleaned them up and then glued/nailed them onto the brick walls on the water side of the walk way hence we missed seeing it.

Walked with them down to check out the HMAS Sydney II sailor plaques. Listed alphabetically they continue along the foreshore to the parking area on the point. It was opened in 2016 to commemorate the 75^th anniversary of the sinking of the ship on 19^th November 1941.

The Memorial cairns which Ed was involved in organising. The anchor came from over on the east coast as there aren’t too many of these types about. It weighs 2 tonne but a freighting company owner who was involved brought it over for free. They positioned the anchor to point to where the ships are lying.

The Kormoran cairn is set back from the Sydney one to symbolise its position in the ocean where they both lie on the ocean floor.

Said farewell to Ed and Heather and wished them all the best for their wedding next year and the further years together. Will send them a text on their wedding day.

We grabbed some fruit and vegies then topped up with fuel and swapped a gas bottle. Back to the van for an early lunch in the shade of the tree as it is heating up.

Hooked up then drove around to the Carnarvon Space and Technology Museum. It is on the site of the OTC Earth Station which is on the northern end of Brown Range. The museum was created by Phil Youd. He had bought the local radio station in 2011 and saw the satellite dish on the hill. He did some research and discovered there was a tracking station here too. He founded the Museum not knowing of Carnarvon’s connection to NASA’s space program. He just thought it would be a good tourism draw card for the town. Through fundraising, hard-working volunteers, a ‘good deal’ with the owner of the small building which would house the museum originally, Phil’s indomitable spirit and vision, the Space & Technology Museum opened a year later.

The OTC Earth Station was opened in 1966, initially with the 12.8 metre wide Casshorn antenna as part of the global satellite communications system. The Earth Station was expanded in 1969, when a second and larger antenna was completed. The antenna had a diameter of 97 feet (almost 30 metres). It took over the job of the original 42 foot antenna in relaying NASA communications via the Pacific Ocean. The Tracking Station was located 4km south from here. This station was built to support NASA’s Gemini, Apollo and Skylab programs. It was commissioned in 1964 and operated for 11 years. It was the last station to communicate with the space capsules leaving the earth’s orbit and the last in contact before splashdown. At the height of the operation it had a staff of 220 people. It was the largest manned space flight tracking station outside USA.

A mobile laser was used pinpoint Carnarvon’s position on the earth.

The Museum has been developed in stages and opened by NASA astronauts. Stage 1 in 2012 by Buzz Aldrin (Apollo 11) then Australian born Andy Thomas opened Stage 2 in 2014. Finally in 2016 Stage 3 was opened by Captain Gene Cernan, Apollo 17 astronaut – he was the last man on the moon as commander of NASA’s final Apollo mission.

A volunteer collected our fees. I checked it was ok to take photos.

She showed us to a life size capsule of Apollo 11 for our journey to the moon. We climbed in and put our feet up on the shelf. Above us was a TV screen and there were two windows on each side which the astronauts looked out of. There was also a window in the door the chap informed us. The 7 minute video took us through the launch process then the countdown to take off with actual voices from the day. It was very good and there were even sky then flames (from the different sections breaking away) out the windows as we roared off into space. I took three videos too.

We walked down a corridor filled with photos of Buzz Aldrin and the moon landing. Neil Armstrong’s reflection is in Buzz’s visor. A view of the Earth from Apollo 11. The two astronauts putting up the American flag.

We went into the third stage section which is a hands-on science activity area. Info about other space exploration and down the corridor was photos of our solar system – without Pluto of course.

We weighed ourselves on a huge scale – it is 5kg underweight or our scales are 5kg over!! I tried flying and landing the space shuttle, got touch down then soured up into the sky again – that was a fail! Steve just posed for a photo.

There were things to show weight distribution, static electricity and videos of the Apollo 11 flight to the Moon. Took a photo of us on the moon which was then emailed to us.

Back to the main area to read all the info, watch videos and check out all the displays. There are lots of special machinery on display.

One of the iron meteorites that landed around Mundrabilla Railway Siding on the Nullarbor Plain. The largest, found in 1966, weighs 12.4 tonnes with a total mass recovered of over 20 tonnes. The meteorite is composed largely of iron-nickel metal but the iron sulphide near the surface of the meteorite melted as it plunged through the Earth’s atmosphere, leaving holes.

There have been 5 different groups of manned space missions.

The first group of missions were called Mercury (1958-1963) – the beginning of the space race with Russia to put a man in orbit around Earth. The USA lost, Russia got there first, 12 April 1961, with Yuri Gargaran. Muchea Tracking Station north of Perth was used for these missions.

It was then the Gemini missions (1965-1966). Carnarvon’s Tracking Station was created.

This is a full size Gemini capsule mock-up. There was a video playing in the cockpit showing an astronaut making the first walk in space – he enjoyed it so much he didn’t want to go back inside. It was also the first time two spaceships were in orbit at the same time. They came together to practice docking procedures. In the video you can see the astronaut waving through the window.

Then came the Apollo missions (1968-1972) of which No. 11 achieved the goal of landing men on the moon on 21^st July, 1969. The ‘Sugar Scoop’ outside relayed the images of Neil Armstrong’s first steps on the moon from NASA’s Honey Suckle Creek Tracking Station to Perth’s RV audience via the Moree earth station. They held a cocktail party this year to celebrate the 50th anniversary of that amazing moment.

Skylab (1973-1974) was next. We saw replicas of it at Balladonia on the Nullabor Plain.

Then the Space Shuttle (1981-2001).

More interesting information about communications. This shows how the transmissions of Neil Armstrong’s first steps on the moon were broadcast around the world. An old TV shows the first satellite TV broadcast from England talking with people in Carnarvon.

Info about the different equipment used here.

From then the satellites continue to go up and provide us with communication all over the world.

From the moon they are now reaching further into space.

The Space Station – we have seen that heaps of times shining brightly as it zooms above us. Video footage of its view of the world.

The antennas used to track all those satellites.

A video was playing of memories of local people and the staff of the Tracking Station and OTC Earth Station. Lots of stories, photos and signed memorabilia from when the astronauts visited here.

There was a cinema too which short movies on various aspects of space travel, NASA and Carnarvon’s involvement in it all. It was very informative and we managed to see everything in the 3 hours we have been here, when the chap announced it was time to close.

A long board near the exit shows the time frame of space exploration.

Outside we checked out the original ‘Sugar Scoop’.

More antennas and The Dish which has a 29.6 metre diameter and weighs 300 tonnes.

As we were driving out I spotted the water fountain made by one of the tracking station staff in the 60s.

Also the full size replica of the Mercury Redstone rocket. It was opened by NASA flight director Gerry Griffin on 20 May 2018, celebrating the first US manned mission into space and honouring the first astronaut in space, Alan Shepard.

Drove down the road and pulled over for a cuppa before we headed out of town. Crossed over the Gascoyne River again as we headed north on the highway. Turned off onto Blowholes Road which was bitumen. Through flat salt bush country between low sand ridges.

Reached the southern end of Lake Macleod which is a huge dry salt lake which covers 2,072 sq km and is 110km long and 40km wide (one map that actually says this lake is dry). Rio Tinto operate the Dampier Salt Mine near here and a Gypsum Mine further north on the west side of the lake.

Further along we stopped to check out a pink waterhole and sheds. This is where they produce Beta Carotene.

Entered Quobba Station land. Reached the ocean again with a big sign reminding travellers of the dangers of these waters.

We turned left towards the Blowholes and campground. The lighthouse is perched on top of a sand dune (Beagle Hill) further inland.

Saw a spray of water shoot up as we approached the rocky ground near the blowhole site. At least this one is working. A plaque reminding people of the dangers of rock fishing.

A squirt of water shows us the way to the blowhole.

The red limestone rock is smooth under our feet but very rough and sharp further across. Nice platform below as we head across to the blowhole.

Thar she blows.

I went closer being very careful on the very sharp rocks here – luckily I had my boots on, not thongs. The platform on the other side of the blowhole also had little blowholes. Of course this is closer to the water compared to the ones in Edel Land NP and there is a good swell today. Luckily the wind is blowing the water away from us.

Looking back down the coastline.

The blow hole is in a gully further over – carefully peered over. There is another smaller one beside it. Took some videos and a heap of photos of which I have just chosen a couple – the joy of digital cameras.

Drove around to the campground where there are a number of tin shacks used by the Carnarvon locals. There is a bit of controversy with them as some of them needing pulling down due to safety concerns. A line of vans was parked on the high area.

We continued along the track. There are 42 shacks in total as they each have a number on the walls.

We parked at a spot behind a dune and walked over the dune to the water. Looking south then around to the north. Point Quobba is a bit further around past where the other vans are parked. There is a bay there that is called The Aquarium – good for snorkling. No fishing allowed there. The point sticking out further is an island out from the actual point.

Looking back over the southern end of the shacks.

A cute bird was swinging on the rope.

We parked in a wide open spot with hard road base with the track going past below us. Track up the dune to the beach and a big dune on the east side.

Set up camp. Still windy but not as bad as it has been.

Put on our hats and headed down the beach for a walk. Lots of sea grass around. This section is thick with it.

Around the end of our bay – looking at the island off Point Quobba or is it part of the point. Looks like it all joins up on low tide.

The Aquarium – filled with coral, fish and shells supposedly, but I don’t think we will be swimming and we have the best coral on the Great Barrier Reef. The shelters really are lean-tos.

Big waves are rolling over the rocky shelf that goes out into the sea from the end of the ‘island’.

We walked up the where the other vans were parked and chatted with a guy. He had NSW plates but has moved to Bargara near Bundaberg. We said about Woodgate and he said he nearly bought the block of land opposite the pub there. Small world. He noticed Steve’s Minelab cap and said he detects too. Chatted about different areas etc as he is staying over this way for a couple of years to detect. Cute little bird wandered over to us.

Walked back to the van for drinks and a few games of Skipbo. We can see over the dune to the water from our window.

Headed back to the blowholes for sun set. A big goanna wandered across the road but got into cover before I could zoom in on him. Probably the biggest one we have seen.

Drove around to Point Quobba first. Map shows this is the point and the ‘island’ is a rock platform. Pebbles cemented into the limestone rocks.

Little waterfall happening as the waves dump the water on top of the rocks. Lots of salt pools here too.

Chatted with a young couple on their four month honeymoon trip. They are from Bowen. She loves photography too so we snapped away as the blow holes blew while the guys chatted about travelling and prospecting. He works for a gold mine near Bowen. The tide is lower than this morning so it is sucking out well and blasting the water up through all the holes. Got some great videos too.

Back to the van for a late dinner and movie. The wind is still blowing butt not as hard as previously so we can leave the windows open. The waves are pounding onto the beach.