Wed, 4th Dec, 2019 Point Quobba Campground, north of Carnarvon, WA (exploring coast to Red Bluff)

7am 26 degrees, southerly wind which is quite cool and a clear sky. The wind is carrying all the salt spray from the waves rolling in so we are feeling quite sticky from it and droplets are forming on the flyscreens etc. Truck and van will need a good wash after all this beach work.

First time in five years I have worn my wrap-around pants I bought in Vanuatu. Now I don’t have to through them out!!

Headed north to explore the area up to Red Bluff (65km).

Mr Goanna was going for a stroll.

First we passed by Quobba Station Homestead that also has camping sites etc. The station goes for 80km along the coastline.They have fat-tailed sheep (I think) and have a load ready to go to market.

Rocky gravel road along the coast with great views.

A rock fisherman was trying to catch his lunch.

The coast further along with sand ridges on the other side.

Across Rio Tinto’s salt mine haul road which goes out to a ship loading jetty at Cape Cuvier.

Further along we crossed another haul road which is from their gypsum mine out on Lake Macleod too.

Turned off then to check out Cape Cuvier. Great view from top of the high cliffs back to the pile of salt and the jetty.

Another reminder of fisherman lost off these rock shelves. This one is called Garth’s Rock and there were fishermen down there. It must be 80 metres from the top to the water.

View around the bay to the next point.

As we drove back out we crested a rise which gave us a great view following the haul road to Lake Macleod and the gypsum mine.

Spotted a spiral of smoke in the north-east. Ed had said there were fires up this way and we had seen two rural fire service trucks leaving when we drove in yesterday. There a lots of burnt patches along the side of the track.

Oh no, a little lamb has lost its mum. We had seen some sheep a bit further back. We had a look around but couldn’t see any sheep nearby but decided it was best to leave it and hopefully mum will come and get it.

Turned off the track and headed 5km to Red Bluff. This is the southern point of the World Heritage Ningaloo Marine Park known as Ningaloo Reef. View to the bluff. No quite as red as I thought it would be.

Then in contrast there is a big white sand dune.

Spotted a goat – I wonder if they farm there here too.

At the entrance to the accommodation area was a memorial sign about the HMAS Sydney II and the HSK Kormoran.

On the hill above the reception area the eagles have made the most of the phone tower.

We stopped to say hello. The young caretaker also worked for the station. I said about the lamb and he said that can happen when a sheep has twins etc they just walk off and leave the weaker one – how sad nature can be sometimes. He said the goats roam free but the station has permission to round them up once a year to sell off.

He was busy renovating the kitchen while his wife was away in Perth. It looks like a great spot to be a caretaker.

They offer camping/van sites as well as ‘clamping’ tents and cottages.

They even have a store – obviously operated in the peak season.

Maybe this brick one belongs to the owners of the station. Up on the hill with a fabulous view.

View over the ‘Green Room’ and Red Bluff.

We drove to the end and parked beside the ‘Green Room’, complete with lounge chairs and a view to die for. The roof is canvas – easier to replace then rusty iron sheeting. 

While the kettle boiled I checked out the loo nearby. So good I called Steve in for a look. They must move the toilet seat around the floor depending on how the hole fills up. Plenty of smashed boards – looking at the rocks around here I can understand why. The Bluff Barrel is well known in the surfing world.

Cute shacks are available for rent – each one has a name.

I like the look of the stone cottage up on the hill.

Walked down onto the beach – now this is a beautiful beach even with the rocky platform. There is plenty of beach further along where the campsites area.  I could come back here a bit earlier in the year and relax. $18/p/n to camp.

More white sand dunes to the north.

We walked towards the end of the beach to check out the cave.

Two wallabies were hiding in the shade.

Nice big cave.

When we got closer we found boats stored there too.

The cave went in a long way and then around to the right it opened up again.

The roof was very interesting with lots of shells etc embedded in the rock.

Makes a lovely frame.

On the other wall there was a small hole down low. 

Perfect framed beach photo.

Time to check out the water – we mightn’t be swimming and snorkling but I will put my feet in wherever we can. Oops that wave got me. Now for the pose shot.

Looking back along the beach.

Found some pretty shells.

Headed back out. We decided as we didn’t bring lunch not to continue on to 3 Mile Camp and Gnaraloo Station as we were happy with the views from Red Bluff.

Met the honeymoon couple coming in – forgot to get their names. They said so check out a wreck near Garth’s Rock – turn right and follow track along the ridge then go down the side of the cliff.

Baby lamb was gone and we saw some sheep under a shrub so hopefully it is with its mumma now.

Turned back onto track to Garth’s Rock – fishermen still there. We continued along and found the track down the side of the cliff. There is a vehicle there which we presume belongs to the rock fishermen. They have a quite a walk around to the rock ledge they are on. That type of fishing is not our cup of tea.

Lots of rusting metal. Steve thinks it could have been a barge for the ship loading facility.

Looking further around the rocky coastline. This point isn’t the other side of Red Bluff – that is a bit further around.

Pretty yellow flowers.

Lots of coral and shell fossils in the limestone.

Lots of oysters too.

The waves are crashing onto the rocks – you can see how fishermen get washed off. Took a video.

A whole shell is impeded in the limestone. Not sure what the tubular things are.

Steve found a cave where the rising tide was crashing in underneath creating waterfalls off the ledges and a roar when the wave hit the back wall. Took a video.

There is a big pipe stuck up in there too.

Great view as we climb back up the cliff face.

Saw a few hawks soaring above us then a wedge-tailed eagle.

The fisherman is still standing out on the rock ledge that we saw when we first drove up – 10 out of 10 for perseverance.

Three foreigners in a 2WD stopped us for advice on driving further on. We said they will be fine, just stick to the main track.

Three emus had stopped for a drink from one of the station’s water troughs – can make them out walking away.

The trailer full of sheep was gone as we went past the station. Spotted a few sheep further along – get to live another day.

Turned off to check out the HMAS Sydney II memorial we missed on the way up.

They hold a memorial service here early year on the 19^th November, hence the poppy. The marker on top shows that one of the German life rafts came ashore at 17 Mile Well and another at Red Bluff. The other points to the site of the action 80 nautical miles away.

Back to the van for a late lunch and yummy mango. Not Carnarvon though – the sticker said Katherine, NT. Rang Mum – all good there.

Had a cuppa then followed the track further south around the bay. Checked one spot around the point that we can see from our van. I can tell because of the rock out the front. We are looking for whiting.

Tracker Steve found where a turtle has come up, laid her eggs and gone back into the water. We did this at Mon Repo near Bundaberg with the kids when they were little. Had to sit there till midnight till it was our turn to go out onto the beach and watch the turtle digging her hole and depositing her eggs. Luckily for us she had laid them below the high tide mark so the kids had to carefully carry an egg each up the a new hole dug above the high tide mark. While we were walking back I spotted lights further along the beach and the ranger said they were guiding some hatchlings back into the water so we all went up and joined in. Daniel got to stand in the line with a torch to help guide the little turtles back to the water. It was very exciting – I wonder if the boys remember it at all.

Nice cone shell complete with a flower!

Couldn’t see any whiting so headed back to the van. Worked on my blog while Steve finished another book.

Had drinks and played Skipbo. It has been a lovely coolish day with the wind though everything feels wet and sticky from the salt in the air.

Dinner after the sun had set behind a band of sea mist.

Walked down to the beach with torches hoping to see a turtle wandering up to lay her eggs. Probably need to be doing this at midnight. No turtles but the beach was covered in these crabs – had me jumping and skipping a lot as they dashed around our feet.

The wind is quite cool so closed up the van. Nice shower to wash off the sticky salt.