2 Geckos Travelling Australia: Wed, 25th November, 2015 Howlong Lions Park, Vic side of Murray, Howlong to Kyffins Reserve by Lake Mulwala, Mulwala, NSW (Mulwala-Yarrawonga sightseeing)

Warmer night and morning, 21 degrees at 7.30am. On Today Show (can’t get Channel 7 here) we watched the 5 P&O cruise ships come into Sydney Harbour. Seems so long ago that we did our cruise.

Checked the map and chose a road we haven’t been on yet as we did this next section of the Murray River when we first headed down this way last year. Staying in Victoria we headed off to Rutherglen (est 1860) running beside the Murray on a back road. Still has lots of old world buildings. Past all the wineries. Vines are looking green and lush.

Yummy aromas met our noses as we passed the Uncle Toby’s factory just before Wahgunyah.

Wahgunyah, established in 1839, was the site of a historical port – 2^nd to Echuca back in the paddle steamer days. We drove across the John Foord bridge into NSW to a park. Only one lane so had to wait for the light to change to go across. The ‘Lady Augusta’ was the first paddle steamer to arrive at Wahgunyah in 1854.

Jon had rung so I left Steve chatting to him while I check out the site of the port and the old bridge. Walked across the park where there are two sheds for the rowing clubs – one for Corowa, NSW (est 1863) and one for Wahgunyah, Vic (est 1860). Looking up and down the Murray.

Unfortunately the info board about the Wahgunyah Customs House was vandalised so I just copied the information and took a photo from this side of the river. From the mid-1850s, the Australian Colonies began to impose custom duties. From time to time, customs agreements operated between the Colonies but these agreements came to an end in 1873. During the 1893 Conference in the Oddfellows Hall, the Victorian Premier, Mr Patterson, said “When a men who comes here from Victoria is regarded as a foreigner, and a woman who goes to Wahgunyah is treated as a smuggler liable to be checked by a policeman and customs officers, it is time some change was made.” The brick building is the new Customs House constructed by the Victorian Government in the late 1880s. It was built on the site of Wahgunyah’s former handball court, next to the Empire Hotel and conveniently overlooked the John Foord Bridge. The actual customs collections point appears to have been a small timber building, adjacent to the bridge. The Customs House is a solidly constructed single-storey brick building. It features polychrome brickwork, brick courses laid in Flemish bond, a hipped roof clad in slates and surmounted by iron finials at each end and two ornate chimneys. It is in excellent condition. All aspects of the building indicate the importance with which the Victorian Government viewed the collection of customs and that they apparently saw little prospect of a new customs agreement with New South Wales.

An engineering plaque for the bridge which has the same base as the old one at Jingellic.

Bridge information. John Foord and John Crisp took up land on the southern side of the Murray River where Wahgunyah now stands. Foord became ‘storekeeper, bridge builder, flour miller, transport proprietor and town planner – busy man.

Lots of corellas in the park, weren’t happy to stay when I walked towards them.

Across the road was the football ground with a tree carved out the front. Not as good as the Tassie ones.

Down the road we pulled into the Civic Centre where the Info Centre is now located. Out the front was a time line of our Federation history.

Finishing with the famous painting by Tom Roberts (1856-1931) of the opening of the first Parliament of the Commonwealth of Australia by H.R.H. the Duke of Cornwall and York, (later H.M. King George V).

I went inside and met a lovely old chap who gave me the Federation story. When the Info Centre was in town he used to take walking tours. One day a very tall bald man asked to hear the story – he was Peter Garrett and he had just been giving the portfolio as Minister of Education and thought he should learn all about the Federation of Australia.

The Federation Story in brief pamphlet. Prior to 1901, Australia was a group of six separate colonies, each governed by its own Parliament. There was no Federal Parliament dealing with matters of common interest and this caused much confusion. During the 1860s and 70s, a number of inter-colonial conferences were held with the aim of developing uniform legislation in areas of common interest, especially customs and tariffs. In 1891 the first National Australasian Convention (Constitutional Convention) met in Sydney. Delegates appointed by the Colonial Parliaments met and a draft constitution was drawn up. This represented a significant step towards Federation. Many believed the Colonies would be stronger if united and the case for Federation strengthened, with the formation of the Federation Leagues. It was the Corowa Federation League that organized the conference held in Corowa on 31^st July and 1^st August, 1893. At this conference Dr John Quick proposed a motion, that a second convention be held to re-draft the constitution and that instead of delegates being appointed by their respective parliaments, they would be elected by popular vote. This motion would change both the direction and pace of Federation. The 1895 Premier’s Conference accepted Quick’s proposals and in 1898 the second Constitutional Convention net and produced a draft constitution. This was put to the people at referendums in 1898 and 1899 (1900 in Western Australia). Sufficient support was gained at the final referendums for the Bill to be taken to the British Parliament for enactment. On the 17^th September, 1900, Queen Victoria signed the proclamation announcing that Federation would be inaugurated on the 1^st January, 1901, after a process lasting 50 years the Commonwealth of Australia was proclaimed and Edward Barton became Australia’s first Prime Minister. Melbourne was chosen as the capital as it had the big Exhibition Centre to use for the Parliament. On the 9^th May, 1901, the first Commonwealth Parliament was opened. In 1927 Parliament moved from Melbourne to Canberra.

The chap said to me – A letter had been written to Canada to ask what they did to become a Commonwealth as they were the only other one. Four men were appointed to draft the constitution – two from NSW, one Qld and one Victorian. They then took the big book across the sea to London and went to the House of Lords asking who should they give it to. The chap said to leave it with them and to go off and sightsee and return in a few days. After a week or so they returned and the chap had the book all ready to go with the seal from Queen Victoria. She had looked through it and saw her name mentioned lots so was happy with it and then sealed it. The chap had said there were more things to be done which will take a few years but if they got into it they could have the Prince come over on his honeymoon to proclaim it in early 1901. Which he did.

Charles Sturt is recorded as the first white man to have passed through here in 1838. Charles Cropper was probably the first white man to take up property in the Corowa district when he took up Brocklesby Station. Artist, Tom Roberts, painted the Shearing the Rams, near Howlong, based on sketches made over a two year period from a shearing shed at Brocklesby Station.

Drove through Corowa looking for where the meeting was held but only found some brolgas.

Stopped at the Federation Museum to ask but it is only open on weekends.

Headed off along the straighter road – we certainly don’t have to travel as far as the Murray does.

The Murray River meets its next dam and creates Lake Mulwala. Originally paddle steamers traversed the Murray as far up as Albury to transport a wide range of general merchandise, including timber, wheat and wool. This river traffic slowly petered out with the arrival of railway in 1886. In 1937, the first suggestions were made concerning the clearing of the red gum forest to be submerged in the creation of the lake, with a vision of not just an irrigation storage facility but a picturesque lake. It was created as a ‘work for dole’ scheme during the Depression times with men on pick and shovel clearing it out. Unfortunately it ran out of money so not all the trees were chopped down up this end.

Great bark on the tree.

Pulled into Kyffins Reserve to find a camp spot. Found a nice spot with lots of green grass – the other bits were a lot drier and dustier.

Another van is parked next to the ‘boat ramp’ which has a lovely sandy bottom.

Had some lunch with the birds, crickets and flies then headed into Mulwala for a look around – its European history dated back to 1838 with its first hotel licensed in 1853. The sign as we enter town says that there is a total fire ban – so no camp oven roast tonight. Crossed an irrigation canal that takes the water north west to Denilquin.

Stopped to read the info and check out the cairn.

Stopped to buy some delicious cherries from a roadside stall. Beautiful jacarandas in bloom.

Stopped at a cairn near the bridge, commemorating Captain Charles Sturt, the Explorer, who passed here 29 May 1838.

Looking from Mulwala across the lake to Yarrawonga in Victoria.

Mulwala and Yarrawonga are linked by a bridge over the lake and nearly creates a continuous settlement. This bridge contains an unusual bend and dip in the middle, a result of miscommunication between the two state governments during its construction in 1923.

The first part is the NSW section and is very narrow and bumpy.

Then onto the Victorian section that curves and slopes down then up again.

The bridge runs near the Yarrawonga Weir (built between 1935-1939) and then the Murray River flows on its merry way again.

Nice wide streets again.

The Shire Hall decorated for Christmas.

Across the Yarrawonga main channel just down from the Weir.

Stopped at the lights to cross the weir – only one lane.

The Murray River continues on.

There is a second weir but the water doesn’t go into the Murray – must be for flood times.

Back across the weir to stop at the park to read the info. Looking across at the dip in the bridge.

Some old machinery in the park.

More engineering plaques.

The power station was added to the weir in 1992 with a fish elevator which was only the 2^nd one in Australia.

The Yarrawonga Weir and power station – the lake has a capacity of 117,500 ML.

The water is flowing out of the power station and under the gates to keep the Murray flowing well. It is all controlled from the main centre at Mt Beauty.

The fish elevator – not sure how it works though – but it gave the fish the chance to go upstream after 60 years of being blocked by the weir.

The pelican has a good spot to catch fish – got one. Took a video of him fishing.

Mr turtle climbing up to warm up.

The kids were having fun in the rafts though I think the teacher is having more fun – tipping over the raft.

Info board about the River Murray System.

Back across the canal and into town. The Court House.

Around the edge of the lake. The wind has picked up and is spraying up over the foreshore and the swimming enclosure.

Two swans and their cygnets were bobbing up and down – got a video of them surfing the waves.

Stopped in town at an icecreamy. Spreading our money in both states!! An old paddlesteamer’s wheels.

The old Customs House as we start to cross over the bridge from Victoria back into New South Wales.

The dip.

Passed the Mulwala Royal Mail Hotel and the old Police Station and Court House.

Back to our van. I worked on my blog – lots to write up from yesterday etc. Steve went for a chat with the other couple. I joined them for a drink. Karl from Sydney and his partner, Inya from Germany. Inya went in for a swim but I just wet my legs – bit chilly but if it is going to as hot again tomorrow we might just get in.

One of the other highlights is the sunsets over the Lake. Unfortunately the wind has brought in the clouds so we won’t be getting a good photo tonight.