Thursday, 1 June 2017

Wed, 24th May, 2017 Malcolm Dam, near Leonora, WA (Qwalia Mine Museum)


6.30 am 9.2 degrees, nice sunrise – so glad we have our heater!!  Just takes the nip out of the air while we have breakfast then the sun is up and warming the van. Is quite hot during the day and the sun is still burning when you are in its rays.

Watching Sunrise – still trying to win Cash Cow!! Will have to ring Mum – Roger Moore has passed away aged 89 – he was her favourite James Bond.

Packed our lunch and headed off to explore the Gwalia Mine Precinct. Another mining town that closed down when the mining stopped but luckily there were some buildings left behind so they have been restoring them and created a museum which has been a wonderful tourist attraction for Leonora. They look so cute but it must have been a hard life – freezing in winter and so hot in summer.

Parked near some old buildings in the main street and went wandering. Gwalia was home to around 1000 people from all around the world in the late 1890s. When the Sons of Gwalia Mine closed in 1963 it was the sixth largest gold mine in Australia’s history and one of only two mines outside Kalgoorlie-Boulder’s ‘Golden Mile’ to produce over two million ounces of gold. The population of Leonora and Gwalia when the mine closed was around 1700 but after the mass exodus of miners to find work elsewhere there were only 40 residents left. The mine has reopened but people live either in Leonora or fly-in, fly-out and a new admin/workshop building is the only new building around.

First was the site of the store owner’s home. The store was next door. It had been blown apart in a storm in 2000 but they have rebuilt it. Around 1910 this multiple-gabled structure was moved from Laverton to the ‘Gwalia Block’ (next to the State Hotel). The timber frame, which is constructed with half Oregon timber and half jarrah, is clad in corrugated galvanised iron and line with ripple iron. It was originally operated on the ‘Block’ by J A Wilson & Co. When Victor Mazza and his family bought the store in 1949 all that remained of the Gwalia Block, once a thriving business centre was the barbershop and general store. After trading on the former site for 8 years, Mazza’s Store was moved by jinker (a large, two-wheeled trailer – I am amazed how they managed to do all this when it is such a big ordeal nowadays and we have cranes etc) to this location and continued to trade until its closure in 1964. For more than 50 years, this store provided nearly all of the town’s supplies. Truly, a ‘one-stop shop’ selling everything from soap to ammunition.






Across the road is a typical Gwalia cottage that we could walk through.








Back across the road to Patroni’s Guest House. Most of the miners who came to Gwalia were single men and stayed in these type of guest house with little twin share rooms. They ate in the big dining room and even those who had their own homes ate here too as many of the homes didn’t have kitchens or water facilities. The average cost of the meals was around 30 shillings a week – roughly one third of the average miner’s wage.


















Across the road again where we wandered around all the other remaining houses. Cute dunny.



There were lots of ‘great’ things for the boys to check out.



The ‘Little Pink Camp’ was moved here in 1988 from where it was situated near the mine’s overburden dump and is a good example of the resourcefulness of mine workers, who constructed their houses using whatever materials were available or cheaply obtained. This tiny dwelling is known for its decoration and the unusual construction of three rooms, and still has remains of its original hessian walls, papered with newspapers. Unlike many of the Gwalia dwelling sit has a plank (old packing cases), rather that dirt floor. Many residents kept goats to supplement their food source. Even more kept poultry and there are many remaining examples of identically built pigeon or fowl houses left in the town. Some of these appear to have been built with more care than the houses themselves. He must have been a little chap too!!





Next to that was the Sly Grog Shop.





Continued down the street to the State Hotel. It is now owned by the Western Mining Corporation so we couldn’t go inside but we could peer in one window. It was the first and last hotel to operate of the chain of Government-owned State Hotels in WA. Demand had long been high for a hotel in Gwalia but no private establishment would build in the town without a freehold title as it was all a mining lease. Eventually, in 1903, the Government built the State Hotel to give the town a licensed premise and so lessen the sly-grog trade. In March 1919 what is thought to have been the State’s first Beer Strike occurred in Gwalia. Fifty residents voted for a Beer Strike and vowed not to return to the hotel until their conditions were met. They had carefully compiled a list of complaints, including some relating to the brand of been offered, the price, size and cleanliness of the glasses, and the behaviour of the manager whom they insisted should be dismissed. The boycott ended in September, although the number of sly-grog prosecutions continued to steadily increase. During the boycott Gwalia was it by a pneumonic influenza epidemic and the Health Department commandeered the empty hotel as a hospital during this emergency. It was sold to a syndicate of local residents in 1960, which ran the hotel until its closure in 1964 after the mine closed.






Behind the hotel are rows of core sample trays and access to the open cut mine.

Across the road was a lovely park with lush green grass. The boys found a good seat.


More information to read. Fancy that – the first manager here was Herbert Hoover who became a President of the United State.


An old windlass outside the mining company’s office.

Another house further up the street is called Art’s Place. It was restored in 1986. The last occupants were the Lovi family. It became known as Art’s Place in about 1980 after a local, Arthur DeKlerk, who carried out some repairs to the structure after it had been damaged in strong winds, a mini cyclone they nicknamed 'Cock-Eyed-Bob'. Steve found me a new egg beater.

Back to the truck then we drove up to the Sons of Gwalia Mine Precinct. The Sons of Gwalia reef was discovered in 1896 by prospectors Carlson, White and Glendinning (Gwalia is one of the Welsh poetic names for Wales) and was the most significant reef opened up in the Leonora area. Seeking investments in the WA Goldfields, Bewick Moreing and Co, a London-based firm sent a young American mining engineer, Herbert Hoover to evaluate its prospects. The active mine is right beside it and some of the buildings have been moved as the mine moved too close. Under the tree in the first photo is a swimming pool!! Sometime after a huge fire in January 1921, a substantial Government loan paid for extensive rebuilding and prosperity and employment gradually came back to Gwalia. As part of this redevelopment a swimming pool was built. Its main purpose was to serve as a good heat of water in case of fire but it also provided a welcome community facility and was very popular with the residents. It was the second public swimming pool built in WA and continually flowing water was pumped inot it from the 2 Mile bore; no chemicals were used in the pool. It is constructed of concrete, unlined with a timber frame.





Into the museum office – free to enter, $2 for an recorder thing that you punch in the number on an item and it tells you the information. A few bits and pieces on display.




Great timeline.



Aerial shot of the mine.

Memories from some of the locals.





Outside was ‘Ken’ the Midland Wood Line steam engine. The name was an acronym for the names of the 3 directors of the Sons of Gwalia Company. Transport was difficult and expensive in the goldfields and Sons of Gwalia constructed a wood line rail service to gather and transport the enormous amount of Mulga timber needed to fuel the mine’s steam and gas producer engines. The 20-inch gauge wood line ran west and south of Gwalia for up to 112km, covering an area of some 1,280 square kilometres. ‘Ken’ was one of four engines built at the WA Government Railway Midland Junction workshops in 1934 for use on the Sons of Gwalia wood line. It ran until the mine closed in December 1963. Its engine is a 0-6-2T with outside frames, the cylinders are 9 ½” xl 2”, it has Walschaerts valve gear, and a boiler pressure of 20 pounds per square inch.



Checked out the view from one of the two lookouts. The open cut is almost 300 metres deep and almost 1km across. The open cut follows around the original Sons of Gwalia shaft, which together have produced over 5 million ounces of gold!! In 2006 St Barbara Mines proceeded towards the Gwalia Deeps entering via a decline tunnel (The Hoover Decline) located 125 metres below the swimming pool. It is estimated that the Gwalia Deeps has a potential yield of over 1.5 million ounces of gold but is located over one kilometre beneath the surface. (The triangle flattened area is where they enter the decline.)


Zoomed in on some of the old shafts on the other side.

Into the Machinery Shed which is on the site of the original mine machinery shed which was removed after the sell-off of the Sons of Gwalia Mine following its closure in 1963. This shed now houses elements of the Leonora Gwalia power generator, pastoral machinery and equipment and other larger items of the collection, like this corrugated iron roller.



59 is the ‘Mum & Dad’ or ‘Dad and Dave’ shearing plant is one of the only two known to be in WA. Mum winds the handle quickly while Dad shears the sheep. They came from Braemore Station, west of Leonora.


Next shed houses the huge Steam Winder. The shed and winder were relocated here in 1987 by the Sons of Gwalia N.L along with the head frame outside. The Fraser & Chalmers steam winder, which came from Erith in Kent, England, was installed in 1913 and is one of the largest steam winding engines remaining in Australia. The head frame and winder formed part of the hauling systems at the mine site. The head frame provided guidance of the hauling ropes between the steam winding engine and the skips in the shaft, which carried the ore. The winder elevated the skips up the incline of the head frame so that ore could be emptied into a storage bin for subsequent treatment.


A recording of whistles shows what it was like for the winder operator. He even had his own toilet as he was never allowed to leave the building whilst the mine was in operation. There were a few accidents – once when he was under the weather he hit the wrong lever sent the winder in the wrong direction and a skip crashing back into the mine.

Learnt a new thing here – to make replacement parts they made a copy of the item out of wood. Now I know what a ‘pattern maker’ does when I was researching my family tree.


Outside to the head frame which was designed by Herbert Hoover. It is closed off at the moment so some repairs can be carried out. They didn’t worry about barricading areas off in the old days for men to work!! Originally this head frame was located where the open cut mining is now in progress. It is made of Oregon pine and built in 1899 and is the only large timber underlie or incline head frame surviving in Australia and indeed it is one of the very few timber head frames of significant size of any design dating from the 19th century. It is largely intact and the tipping ramp, ore bin and primary crusher can still be seen. It was extended in 1912-13 to accommodate the new larger winder.


Steve found some new ‘balls’.


Next is the Assay Office. It was constructed in 1898 and is a substantial brick and corrugated iron structure with a hipped roof and a skillion connection (lean to). The prominent brick chimneys were constructed to service the assay furnaces which were required to determine the quality of gold in the ore obtained from the mine.



Inside was also lots of information about the many men who went off to war from this area.








The Mine Office is having some renovations too. It was built in 1898 and was converted into a museum in 1972 by a group of local residents. Display items for the museum were plentiful as a surprising number of personal objects were left behind when the miners moved on. In the 1960s before vandals made their mark, it was possible to find miner’s possessions of all description including photographs, cleverly devised household implements and letters in the debris of the town. What was salvaged is still significant and many of these articles were collected. Unfortunately we couldn’t get in to see them.



Across from that is Hoover House. Herbert Hoover, as manager of the mine, designed this substantial brick home before he left Gwalia; it was built between 1898-99. It took around two years to build, due to the many disputes with upper Management over the cost of the house; at the time when an average house cost 100 pounds to build, this house cost 600. Some of the original furniture from that time survives to this day such as; the built in robes, the sideboard, the small square coffee table and the large display pedestals. Some of the other furniture items are original, not from Hoover’s era rather, left behind from other mine managers who lived the house in the decades following. Hoover left Gwalia before the house was completed but spent his 24th birthday in the dining room and stayed in the partially completed home before being called away to the expanding coalfields of China. Hoover also stayed in the house on his numerous visits to Gwalia after his return from China in 1902.














The grand dining room where the ‘Gold Bar Dinner’ was held.




Beautiful Oregon timber floors.


Down the hall way which the three bedrooms fronted. You can stay here – The Hoover Room was being used at the moment.







This area was the old kitchen and it now used by the Bed & Breakfast people for their meals.

Back outside we explored some more old bits and pieces and huge cacti.


The other side of the head frame. The workmen were finished so we could go in and read the information. 24 men used to fit in one of the skips to be lowered down into the mine – amazing!!



Looking across to Mt Leonora.

Kev and Linda headed back to camp but we decided to drive up to the lookout on Mt Leonora. Bit of a rocky trip so we walked the last bit. Great view over the mine and townsite then around to Leonora, continuing around to where we are camped at Malcolm Dam near the bump of a hill.








  
Steve added another rock to the cairn.

Back into Leonora to the water point. I checked out the signs and stamper display. We still haven’t done all the Loop Trails.



Glad I don’t have to ‘go’.

The stamper display.






Into town and we drove around the streets – found another ore crushing battery but of a later era.

Parked in the main street and checked out the buildings. They use an app for mobiles to get the history – which I don’t have so just took photos of the interesting ones.








Between the two old pubs though they have erected a modern ‘thing’ – why not build something to celebrate the history of the area instead of thing that looks like a honeycomb!!

Mum had tried to ring us so I rang her back. Her land line has gone again so she is back on the mobile. I asked if she had heard about Roger Moore passing.

Drinks around the fire and lots of chatting. After a warm day it cooled off quickly once the sun went down.


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