Thurs, 2nd Nov, 2017 Lake Indoon, east of Leeman to Wandoo Reserve east of Jurien Bay, WA (Leeman, Stockyard Gully & Green Head)

7.30am 21 degrees, clear sky and still windy.

Headed back to the coast to Leeman. A nice beach town. All the old fishing shacks are gone and new modern homes have taken their place. The government decided in 1961 to subdivide land here. It was previously called ‘Snag Island’ after the limestone island offshore. It was named Leeman after Abraham Leeman from the Dutch ship ‘Waeckende Boeij’ which sailed the WA coast in 1658 in search of wreckage from the ‘Gilt Dragon’ lost two years earlier. Leeman was in charge of a party that put ashore to search and was abandoned by the main ship when bad weather blew up. After an epic open boat voyage lasting nearly 6 months, he and three of his companions reached Batavia (Jakarta) in their small craft on 23 September 1658. That was amazing.

A few lobster boats are moored out front near Snag Island.

We walked up the path to the lookout – the first sign said it was Gecko Patch Hill then at the top it said Tee Tree Lookout. A sign said that fishermen used the Tee Tree to navigate their way home from 1957 to 2002. Presuming it was this tree or maybe there was a bigger one that has fallen down, hence the end date.

Good view over the bay and the town from the lookout.

Looking south and over the reefs offshore.

Zoomed over the houses to the dry salt lake that runs parallel with the coast.

Continued south to Green Head – home to a Fisherman Island where one of the largest colonies of sea lions can be found. They are also on Beagle Island north west of Leeman. Green Head is named after the headland which is green. It was first used by W Archdeacon in 1875, the hydrographic surveyor off the Admiralty. Land was set aside here for a camping reserve in 1946 and the popularity of the place in the early 1950s resulted in a demand for building blocks. Lots were surveyed and the townsite was gazetted in 1966.

We turned onto a rough dirt track to the Milligan Island Camp Node that has just been finished. It has the same shelters and toilets as Lucky Bay in the north that we visited but they have bays to park the vans in etc. All the free camping on the beach is no longer as this is the only spot available at $15 per night per vehicle. We parked in one of the bays and unhooked the van so we could explore the area. A chap walked by with a few whiting he just caught off the beach.

We continued up the dirt track along the coast checking out the beaches – not that nice really.

Further along we walked up to a lookout over Ti Tree Bay, Anchor Point and Little Anchorage Bay.

Back onto Indian Ocean Drive then south again to the turn off east towards Stockyard Gully Caves. We then turned north onto a dirt road then into the National Park. The road was very sandy and then rough with the limestone rocks and ran between grazing land as this was part of the North Stock Route from Geraldton to Perth from the 1850s to approx. 1925. The cave and gully offered a safe and refreshing place to camp.

Info about the cave.

I put on my fly net as the flies were bad but Steve preserved. We headed along the creek listening to all the buzzing bees in the blooms above us.

Further along the limestone rocks appeared high on either side.

There were heaps of bee hives hanging from the rocks. One of the blooming trees that bees love. In the brochure they are referred to as ‘feral bees’.

Around to the entrance where there were more bee hives and thousands of bees. They weren’t annoying us like the flies were!!

As soon as you entered the cavern the temperature dropped 10 degrees – it was quite hot outside. Also the flies didn’t come with us and the buzzing of the bees ceased. A Welcome Swallow put on a flying display for us. Then I spotted two more on a ledge near their nest.

A little way in – looking back at the entrance.

We had taken two torches and we needed them. It was pitch black as we rounded the corner and lost the sunshine from the entrance.

I took a few shots using the flash and using the torch to illuminate things. It was very grey and the floor was sand. We found a tunnel off to the side that others have explored but we just took photos!!

Mainly the cave was open and high except for these two hanging bits. Someone had put a reflector on one which was handy.

Couldn’t see too far ahead but it was easy walking and we didn’t hear or see any bats or other animals.

The cave is 300m long and the other end has a bigger opening.

Looking back into the cave.

We climbed down over the big boulders to the sandy creek again.

A western blue-tongue lizard wasn’t happy to see us.

The next cave has been closed off now though the brochure said there were two shorter caves for the more adventurous before reaching the final cave which has no exit. Obviously that is where the creek would have gone undergrown on its way to the coast.

More bee hives.

Walked up to the northern car park which showed the flood height in 1999. It would have been amazing to see that much water thundering through the cave.

Some more info.

Back down to the creek and we decided to go back through the tunnel rather than the bush walk – no flies in the tunnel. Steve resorted to a twig as they were so annoying. I spotted a falcon of some sort fly off with something in its talons and then we spotted another one sitting on a branch looking very regal.

Interesting holes in the rocks as we climb back into the cavern.

Steve showing how big this entrance is.

Back inside I tried to photograph the only column we found.

Back to the truck and into Green Head. Had lunch overlooking Dynamite Bay – not sure why it is called that. The sun is shining but the wind is strong and cold. Such a change from the hot walk we just did to the caves!!

Walked up to the lookout. Great view over the bay. 

Looking north to Point Louise and Anchorage Bay.

Looking east over the township then south to South Bay – original name! Further along the coast to Sandy Cape.

  

Called into the Caravan Park to see Trish and Claude who are working here for a while. Will catch up with them again somewhere.

Great sunset photo on the wall - it is Lipfert Island in Billy Goat Bay, just south of where we left the van.

Back to the van but we kept driving down the track to check out the rest of the coast. Big white sand dunes are sending fine sand into the air – and probably into the van as I left the top vents open.

Turned off the track to the beach where the sign said this is Milligan Island with Lipfert Island a bit north of it. Will check it out on the way back for a photo through the window.

Went to the end of the track. Looking back over Anchorage Bay to Green Head and around to Point Louise. It is nearly becoming an island.

Continued back along the track to another little bay.

Back to Lipfert Island to get my photo. No sunset – just a wave breaking.

Walked down to the water’s edge – looking south then north of Billy Goat Bay.

A lower view through the rock window.

Hooked up the van and headed south again. Turned off and climbed a hill to Grigson’s Lookout. Good map showing where we have been and heading to.

Interesting information.

Great photo of the Stockyard Creek flowing through the tunnel.

Followed the track up to the lookout. Steve added another rock to the cairn then we read it was actually a historic one.

Looking north-east over the salt lake and Grigson’s Farm.

Looking south-east over Cockleshell Gully and Mt Leseur.

Looking south-west over the gypsum mine and sand dunes. (So annoying how it turns my photos around!!)

Finally north-west over Fisherman Island where the seals breed. Bit hard to zoom in on with the sun heading down.

Continued south to nearly Jurien Bay then we turned east to find the new 72 hour free camp spot at Wandoo Reserve. Up and down the rolling dunes and then back into cattle pastures. The camp spot is a picnic area just off the road so not a place we would leave the van alone but fine for overnight. Another motorhome was here so we found a spot and parked up.

A couple of kookaburras were having a great laugh. I think it is a baby as the parent came and helped it along with its laughing. So nice to hear their laughter – reminds me of home.

Rang Julie and Bruce to make sure they will be home tomorrow when we go into Jurien Bay. Julie said to come stay which will be nice.

Quiet arvo doing my blog listening to all the birds – no wind. No TV reception either!!

Wed, 1st Nov, 2017 Freshwater Point, sth of Dongara to Lake Indoon east of Leeman, WA

Lovely calm sea this morning so had our cuppas outside enjoying the view. Warmed up quickly without that wind blowing.

Headed off to check out the next free camp at Knobby Head North. Not as nice as the last one – more exposed to the wind and the beach was covered in sea grass. Looking south to Knobby Head itself with the fishing shacks then north up the beach.

We continued south passing more fishing shacks along in the dunes and low scrub. On the east side of the highway is Beekeepers Nature Reserve. Can’t find any info why it is called that.

Turned east across a dry salt lake which runs south parallel with the coast for a long way. Up and over a rise as we had views over all the agricultural land again. We continued on to Lake Indoon. It is a freshwater lake but suffers from the algae problem like Ellendale Pool. Lots of birds like it though and bees and flies and ants!! So glad we have flyscreens.

Another couple were just leaving so we took their spot beside a big tree. Unfortunately they just dumped their water on the ground so the bees moved straight in. Steve ran the hose out into the bush so the bees won’t coming buzzing up my drain pipe. Maybe that is why it is called Beekeepers Reserve because of all the bees around the area.

32.5 degrees in the van at lunchtime – lovely. The wind has picked up a bit but is warm.

Played a few games of Skipbo and Steve reigned supreme.

I uploaded my blog and checked Facebook where Jon had sent me a photo from the Bar on an Island at Fiji that they went to today. 

Then my laptop started ringing and Jon and Jess were on the screen chatting to us – don’t you just love technology. He moved the camera around their room so we could check it out. Jon got up at 6am to play golf – Jess enjoyed the sleep-in. They had a fabulous day on the island with only 30 other people there. They were heading off to meet the groom and bride to have dinner to celebrate the bride’s birthday. 7pm there to our 3pm here.

The wind got stronger coming straight across the lake to us but it wasn’t a cold wind like on the coast. 3pm still 31.8 degrees.

Chatted with a couple with 3 kids from Sunshine Coast taking 3 months to see WA. I gave them some ideas of good places to sea around the bottom end.

Back to the van for drinks inside as the wind is really howling now. Had to close the window and door facing the lake it was blowing so hard.

Erica rang to say she got her postcard and gifts we sent her and also Terry got his birthday card. Another of her cousins have passed away – it is that time of their lives unfortunately.

We did have TV reception but as the night went on it broke up with all the wind so we had to watch a movie off the hard drive.

Tues, 31st Oct, 2017 Cliff Head, sth of Dongara to Freshwater Point, sth of Dongara, WA

7.30am 20 degrees, clear sky and still. Last night we could see a light out at sea. We had noticed a shape that looked like a whale tail and now with the sea calm we can see clearly that it is a gas or oil platform

The breeze picked up early though.

Jon and Jess rang from Sydney airport while they were waiting to board their flight to Fiji for a week’s holiday and to attend their friends’ wedding there on Saturday. Sounds like they will have fun.

Had a cuppa and packed up then headed 10km south to Freshwater Point. This and the next one Knobby Head are part of the shire free camp area – you can spend 72 hr either at one or 24 hr at each. There is a flat open area beside the ridge with a lighthouse/beacon on the top.

Zoomed in on what I think looks like a dragon head.

We parked beside some trees near a couple of fishing shacks that area risk of heading into the sea as the bank there are on is being eaten away by the big swells.

Set up the chairs in the shade then we spotted a snake coming down the tree. A bird had just landed and must have chased him down. He went quickly under the truck and into the scrub on the other side of us.

After lunch played a couple of games of 3 to Kings – Steve still trying to beat me!! We laughed at this hard life we are living – it is so good.

Rang Mum and Dad for a chat – they are doing well. Dad even had a win at Brothers which was exciting.

The wind is strong but we are reasonably protected here though we ended up closing up the van as it got chilly. I braved the cool breeze for some lovely sunset photos.

Mon, 30th Oct, 2017 7 Mile Beach, nth of Dongara to Cliff Head, sth of Dongara, WA

7.30am 15.8 degrees – when I got up at 5 it was only 14 degrees with the van all closed up. Clear sky and no wind at the moment. Weather forecast is for easterly wind which is hot and a top of 30 then the wind will change back to the south-west bringing the cold wind again.

Packed up and headed back into Port Denison for a cuppa next to the marina. Peaceful this morning though there is still a big swell rolling in.

Headed south through low scrub covered sand dunes which are being mine for lime. East to the Brand Highway then south to our next camp spot on the coast at Cliff Head. There is a mining lease sign saying Gypsum was mined here. A few old fishing shacks are scattered in the dunes. The camp is north and south up again the limestone cliffs. We chose the south as it had a bigger area.

Got a nice spot with sea views but sheltered from the now blowing strong south-westerly.

Had lunch then relaxed for the afternoon. Rick rang to say he has to have more surgery – poor guy. Hope it all goes well and he can get on with enjoying his life.

After smoko we went for a walk along the beach as it is lovely and sunny though the wind is still strong. Steve found gold on the path - $2.  Looking back to the van with the limestone cliff on the right.

Not the prettiest of beaches with the sea grass and the water is dirty looking probably due to the minerals in the sand.

Zoomed on the cliffs that give the spot its name.

Found a few shells along the way as we walked around to the North camp spot.

Under the limestone cliffs – this rock looks like if fell here and split neatly in two.

Steve’s always on the lookout for treasure but he couldn’t get it out of the sand.

He found a big coin shell and this interesting coral thing.

Looking back to where we are camped.

Around the cliff to the next point. A few old shacks here and some vans parked up in a small turnaround area beside the cliff.

Headed back with the wind pushing us backwards. Found a lot of lobster carcasses.

Continued past our camp over all the seagrass looking further south.

The kids have created a nice display with all the flotsam off the beach.

Drinks in the shade shelter out of the wind with the other couple we met at 7 Mile from Bundaberg – didn’t get their names. I had pulled out steak and sausages thinking there was a BBQ here as we can’t have fires now until April but there isn’t – just a bench.

Closed up the van again to keep out the chilly wind and cooked inside.

Watched the new game show – The Wall. Different.