Mon, 10th Sept, 2018 Mum & Dad’s, Cairns, Qld (Paronella Park)

Overcast morning. Sent Louis and Ian happy birthday texts.

Jess picked me up and we headed south. The sky got darker and then we went through rain. Didn’t think about the weather and we don’t have any umbrellas.

Through South Johnstone – great sign outside the Criterion Hotel – Husband Daycare Centre – leave your husband here so you can go shopping!!

Around the South Johnstone Sugar Mill.

Across the South Johnstone River.

Still overcast but not raining when we pulled into the car park of Paronella Park. The owner, Mark greeted us at the front – very nice personal touch. Picked up our park map and info.

We paid our entrance then turned around and there was Erica and Terry. They had parked their van in the camp area beside the park. Free camping for the night with your entrance fee.

The history tour was about to start so we joined it. Umbrellas were provided as another light shower of rain passed over us. Davin from Vancouver, Canada was our guide. Erica asked him how look it took him to learn all the history – about two weeks. He has been working here for 10 months. Wandered along the paths hearing the stories of how Jose had a dream and created all these buildings. Sadly there was a fire in 1979 that burnt down the ballroom and of course the park has suffered from cyclones and floods but Mark and his team have worked very hard to make it an amazing tourist attraction. Took it carefully down the 47 steps of the Grand Staircase to get down to the picnic area below the Mena Creek Falls. I didn’t take photos then as we will walk back at our leisure later. Ended the tour at the Lower Refreshment Rooms. 

Erica and Terry were here 55 years ago (1963 – I was just born) with Stephen as a 4 year old. They saw the ballroom in its glory with magnificent chandeliers – unfortunately there are no photos of them. The ballroom floor was made from Black Bean Timber.

History off the brochure and a website:

“José Paronella arrived in Innisfail from Catalonia in northern Spain, in 1913. He was engaged to Matilda but planned to make his fortune before going back to marry her. For the next 11 years he worked, cutting sugar cane initially, then purchasing, improving, and reselling cane farms. In 1924 he returned to Spain but Matilda had married. He still wanted a wife so he married Matilda’s younger sister, Margarita, in 1925. The trip back to Australia was their honeymoon.

José first saw this 13 acres of virgin scrub along Mena Creek in 1914. He eventually purchased it in 1929 for £120 and started to build his pleasure gardens and reception centre for the enjoyment of the public.

The earliest structure, the Grand Staircase, was built to shift the building materials (river sand to make the concrete) from the lower to the upper level where their family home was to be and then the Castle. Apart from the house, which is made of stone, all of the structures were constructed of poured, reinforced concrete, the reinforcing being old railway track. The concrete was covered with a plaster made from clay and cement, which they put on by hand, leaving behind the prints of their fingers as a reminder of the work they had done. They laboured with unswerving determination, until, in 1935, the Park was officially opened to the public. The Theatre showed movies every Saturday night. In addition, with canvas chairs removed, the Hall was a favourite venue for dances and parties.

A unique feature was the myriad reflector, a great ball covered with 1270 tiny mirrors, suspended from the ceiling. With spotlights of pink and blue shining on the reflector from the corners of the hall, it was rotated slowly, producing a coloured snowflake effect around the walls, floor and ceiling. During the mid-sixties the Theatre ceased to be, and the Hall became devoted to functions, particularly Weddings.

Above the Refreshment Rooms was the projection room, and up another flight of stairs was the Paronella Museum. This housed collections of coins, pistols, dolls, samples of North Queensland timbers and other items of interest. Originally, food service was from the lower Refreshment Rooms downstairs.

The concrete slab tables forming the lower Tea Gardens and the swimming pool both proved extremely popular, as they still do today. The avenues and paths were well laid out with the familiar shaped planters which are still to be seen wherever you go in the Park. Two tennis courts were behind the Refreshment Rooms, with a children's playground, The Meadow, situated near the creek.
Upwards of 7000 trees were planted by José. These included the magnificent Kauris lining Kauri Avenue. A Tunnel was excavated through a small hill. Above its entrances are the delightful stonework balconies. Walking through here brings you to spring fed Teresa Falls, named for his daughter.

The creek is lined with rocks and traversed by small bridges. Some parts have cascades built out of rocks, so the sound of water is always there. The Hydro Electric generating plant, commissioned in 1933, was the earliest in North Queensland, and supplied power to the entire Park.

In 1946, disaster struck. Upstream from the Park a patch of scrub had been cleared and the logs and branches pushed into the creek. When the first rains of the Wet Season came, the whole mass began to move downstream until it piled up against a railway bridge a few hundred metres from the Castle. Water backed up until the weight broke the bridge, and the entire mass descended on the Park. The downstairs Refreshment Rooms were all but destroyed, the Hydro was extensively damaged, as was the Theatre and Foyer.

Undaunted, the family began the task of rebuilding. The Refreshment Rooms downstairs were beyond repair, so this service was moved upstairs, and only the structure of the building recreated. In addition, José built the fountain. The Castle was repaired, the gardens replanted, and the Park was alive again.

In 1948, José died of cancer, leaving Margarita, daughter Teresa, and son Joe, to carry on. In time, Teresa married and eventually moved to Brisbane with her husband. Joe married Val in 1952, and they had two sons, Joe (José) and Kerry. Renovations and maintenance meant there was always plenty of work, and the floods of 1967, '72 and '74 further added to the load. In 1967 Margarita died, and in 1972, Joe died, leaving Val and the two boys to continue the hard working tradition and keep the dreams alive.

The Park was sold out of the family in 1977 and sadly, in 1979, a fire swept through the Castle. For a time, the Park was closed to the public. Cyclone Winifred in 1986, a flood in January 1994, Cyclone Larry in March 2006, and Cyclone Yasi in January 2011 were all further setbacks and challenges for Paronella Park.

Mark and Judy Evans, the current owner/operators, purchased the Park in 1993 and formulated a plan to put the Park back on the map. They see the Park as a work of art, and work on maintaining and preserving, rather than rebuilding. Small restoration projects have been undertaken, pathways uncovered and improved, and the Museum, an ongoing project, is continuously being enhanced.

In November 2009, the ambitious project to restore Paronella Park's original (1930s era) hydro-electric system was completed. At a cost of $450,000, the system once again provides all of the Park's electricity requirements. This work and other environmentally focused initiatives culminated in Paronella Park being awarded Eco Australia's GECKO award for Ecotourism in 2011. Paronella Park's life as a pleasure gardens continues as José intended, for visitors, and with social gatherings, particularly weddings, continuing to make use of this unique location.

Mark and Judy Evans, the current owner/operators, trust your virtual visit has been enjoyable and memorable and look forward to seeing you in person when you visit the Park.

Paronella Park - The Dream Continues…
The Park has been recognised by multiple Regional and State Tourism Awards from 1998 onwards.”

We walked down Lovers Lane to the Tunnel of Love. Jess took a photo of the three of us.

Headed back up the steep road to the camp ground. Passed the remains of the ballroom and cafe.

Had lunch with Terry and Erica at their van.

The sky is clearing. Wandered back into the park and checked out the Paronella’s family home . It was built after the Grand Staircase and served at the Park’s café until the new deck was built in 2006. It is now the museum.

Memorial plaques of the four family members.

Lots of photos and information inside.

Photos of the inside of the ballroom area and the old projector.

People have returned old souvenirs to put on display here.

After Cyclone Winifred.

1946 flood photo. Not sure what date the next two flood photos are from. Amazing shot of the water coming over the falls into the top of the Hydro building.

Great aerial photo.

Margarita and Jose’s wedding in 1925.

Their son Jose and his wife, Vale Ribes.

Their daughter Teresa on her wedding day to Pino Zerlotti.

Lots of plants to check out – love how these bromeliads have grown up and around the tree. Butterfly information.

Joined another couple for a tour of the hydro power system. It ran from 1933 to 1979 and is again functioning after a big refurbishment in 2009. Ergon Energy purchases excess energy from here to go onto the grid.

It was quite an amazing feat when you look at all the work involved. The water comes from the top of the falls into a big pipe, falling straight down to the turbine in the building below. The water then flows back out into the creek. Water is also piped from here for the wishing well near the Ballroom and the fountain near the Refreshment Room – all gravity fed. 

Great view from the top.

Down the very narrow steep steps down the side of the building to the first landing.

Great spot for a selfie with Jess.

Under the falls there is a cavern. Jose had little boats for people to row around the falls.

The roots of the tree above make a nice sculpture.

Down another flight of steep steps to a small landing outside the turbine room. When Jose got the hydro electric system working the first thing he lit was the falls and the hydro rooms. He wanted all to see he had power and lights. The old Bruce Highway road went by the park and across the falls back then.

Another view of the falls from lower down and the pool and picnic area.

Looking down as the water bubbles up after it goes through the turbine.

Very rustic hand-rails – don’t think I will lean on them too much.

Lots of turtles below us and two guys are feeding the fish – jungle perch and black bream. We were given fish food when we arrived.

Climbed back up. The suspension bridge was built in 1988.

Jess walked out onto the balcony so we followed her out. Tree from flood in March wiped out balustrade so a replica was made – no mould yet on these.

Across to the Ballroom/Theatre and Café. They sold light refreshments here for the theatre even ice cream since they had power to keep it frozen. Only one section has retained some of its original paint.

The wishing well is out the front of the café. Jose was always trying to make money. He would tell people to stand with their backs to the well and toss a coin over their shoulder. If it went into the top pool they would have good luck, if it went into the bottom pool – bad luck, so people would keep tossing coins until they got one in the good luck pool. Margarita noticed she was receiving a lot of wet money from children buying ice creams and worked out the children were getting the money out of the wishing well. Jose caught a big eel and put it in the well with a sign ‘electric eel’. That stopped them.

Along the building and under to climb down the Grand Staircase.

Not the smoothest hand rails!

Looking back up. The signs on the steps mark the water levels of three major floods. The top one is 1946, next one 1967 and 1994 then under that 1996 and 2018. Obviously they got a lot more of that rain earlier than Cairns did.

He made the picnic tables out of the concrete and sand too. Not for use now but it looks good with the moss tablecloth.

Another selfie with my camera this time.

Terry fed the fish. Some good sized ones. They are all well fed.

Looking across to the falls with the Hydro Electric building on the right. That was an engineering feat building that to start with.

The Grand Staircase. Obviously he had to clear all this land to create his dream then he planted so many trees and plants back.

Croc warning sign as there was a 2.5 metre croc in here after a flood so who knows how many others are lurking about. Can’t be too many considering how many fish are about.

Watched Mr Turtle painfully climb out only to turn around and fall back into the water. An eel was weaving around through the fish.

Terry was having fun identifying the trees. This one is a Milky Pine (alstonia scholaris). His chainsaw finger was getting itchy!!

Next stop was the lower refreshment rooms. These rooms operated as a café until extensively damaged in the 1946 flood. Then the cyclones caused further damage.

The water fountain inside was for washing dishes or was our guide taking a lend of us.

Terry pointed out the rusting railway lines Jose used.

The change rooms were on each side – not very big!! They had wooden doors for privacy.

The plants are taking over the place now.

Beside the main building was the kitchen. More rail lines supporting the ceiling.

A lovely waterfall pond is between the main building and what used to be the tennis courts. One of the past guides donated some Barramundi for the pond. Terry fed them some of the fish pellets. One took a pellet but the rest just didn’t move. Too well fed I think.

Walked out on to the tennis court area for a full photo.

Got this photo out of the brochure. Jose originally created the courts with crushed termite mounds. As they were difficult to maintain through the floods they were resurfaced with asphalt and remained in use continuously till the late 1960s.

Nearby was the toilet block.

The sun was shining down Kauri Avenue so Erica suggested I get a photo in case the sun went out.

Walked back to get a photo of the pool and falls – again.

Passed the pond again from the other side  – it looks so pretty.

Back through the tall straight Smooth Bark Kauri Pines that Jose planted in 1933. Erica told Jess how to measure the height of the tree. Keep walking away from it and when you can see the top of the tree when you put you head between your legs then walk back counting the metres. She did it – did look funny. She said about 28 metres which was pretty close.

Looks like Big Foot.

Followed another path towards the turtle nesting area. A big tree had fallen and people have been poking coins into the cracks.

Lots of skinny bamboo along the side of the creek.

Snapping turtles nest in the sand around here. There were heaps of turtles and fish waiting for a feed and a big eel. Terry fed them the rest of the pellets. They were climbing over each other and the fish were boiling the water.

Meandered along and found Teresa Creek with its own little bridge. It was the last of 8 bridges to span Teresa Creek. It is regularly covered by water in the wet season and has stood the test of time. Boy he did so much work.

Path divides – back to Tunnel of Love or on through the Bamboo Forest. Took the Bamboo walk.

We climbed up a little ridge then down the steps.

Jose made hundreds of these planter boxes.

Checked out the Tunnel of Love. Now home to lots of micro bats. Zoomed in on the gate at the other end. The dirt removed was used to level up the ground of and around the tennis courts and for the coating of the buildings.

Jose’s daughter, Teresa married and went to Brisbane. She visited many years later and told Mark & Judy her memories of the place. Jose wanted to put in fish tanks in the alcoves along the Tunnel of Love but that didn’t work as they leaked. As it was wet and cool in there they grew mushrooms. Margarita was scared by a micro bat that moved in so Jose would go with her to protect her so the name Tunnel of Love name was created. The Spanish people charge a small fee to enter their tourist attractions then charge fees for each of the other things to do once you are inside. Jose carried on that tradition and there was an entrance fee booth at front of Tunnel of Love and down at the picnic area for the hire boats. Enterprising.

I think I have worn them out!!

This tree fern is determined to wind its way into the sunshine. Jose had planted lots of palms and ferns in this area to provide shade and visual stimulation for his guests.

I left the others resting and went back along the path to the steps then went around the hill that the Tunnel goes through to check out Teresa Falls. More of the little bridges Jose put in over Teresa Creek. They don’t go anywhere but he wanted somewhere for couples to stand and gaze into each other’s eyes etc. This section was known as the Fernery. This water is from a spring 50m upstream which was the Park’s water supply till the 1990s. The billabong ram pump was housed here to transfer water to the upper level for the Park’s needs.

The other side of The Tunnel of Love.

There was only one flow of water here so Jose altered the top so it would replicate Mena Creek Falls. He named it Teresa Falls after his daughter. When daughter Teresa came back she wanted to see the falls but there was only one flow. She said how her father had altered it so Mark explored and cleared out the channels so the three waterfalls flowed freely again.

I found a Treasure Box. I didn’t open it so don’t know if it was a Geocache or just someone’s treasure.

Picked up my weary companions – in the need of a cuppa. Went up the road again – no one wanted to climb up the 47 steps. Walked into the ballroom/picture theatre area this time. A little room off to the side – probably to store the films etc.

The other side was a toilet block. 

The back of the family cottage.

Some old machinery under the new patio area.

Checked out the flower on the Cannonball Tree – no balls to show Erica though. There is a great tree on the way to Crystal Cascades.

A big Kauri growing out of the patio area. The poles are Turpentine trees – white ants don’t like them hence the name.

Cuppa time back at the van. After a rest we wandered down again. Interesting flower on the Lipstick Tree.

Around to the suspension bridge. Erica and Jess not too keen but they made it across. Great views as we wobbled our way across. Jess pointed out that the timber between the metal bars was only held there by some conveyor belt. I said ‘just don’t look’.

The light is on at the power plant.

Across the other side. Read the information board there.

Looking back at the bridge and park.

Walked up to Mena Creek pub and store (est 1931).

The old church is now a private residence and is having a refurbish. Next door to the church is an empty paddock that Paronella Park owns and allows people to stay there in their self-contained vans etc.

The courtesy bus dropped off some people to pub so she said she would be back to pick us up at 6pm for the night tour. Rested for a bit at the pub.

The courtesy bus picked us up and we had a quick ride back to the park. We were checking out the things for sale when I noticed a sign about an air raid shelter Jose built during WW2. Now it is a wishing well by the looks of the coins.

Joined some other guests for the night tour. Ryan from Ontario, Canada was our guide and handed out torches. The sky has cleared and it is a lovely evening. Still a bit of light around as we go to the Ballroom ruins and he tells us more stories. To avoid paying tax in Australia foreigners would go back home for a while but the government starting getting wise and grabbing as they left on ships. Jose grew beard and changed name for a new passport to go back to Spain. Needing money for his honeymoon sent a message to his bank for money but they didn’t know him by his new name. He said it was the Spanish version of his name so they said ok and sent him the money – things are so different these days.

Down the steps again to the picnic area. Ryan grabbed our cameras and used his torch to highlight us for photos. Jess’ phone camera was better than mine in the dark.

Through the Kauri Avenue.

Past the entrance to Tunnel of Love and around to Teresa Falls.

Back to the Refreshment Area. We lined up opposite the building with a lot of other people who we didn’t know were wandering around too. A light shone in the bottom section where the little fountain was and then a smoky mist came out as more lights and music started. It was beautiful and so tranquil. I took a video for a bit.

  

Then we all moved forward. My camera managed a few good photos – lots of blurry ones I deleted.

The guides then took photos for us. Terry was resting on a seat. Great service. Used Jess’ phone again for these photos.

Erica and Terry took the courtesy bus back up to the main area while Jess and I walked up with all the other visitors. Mark was there to greet us with a little gift. A small bit of the Ballroom walls after it collapsed. He said that next year the String Family from Wollongong  will be playing live each night as the lights come on for 6 months. He talked about his wonderful staff and how he employs people who have passion so that they can love the place like he does. He said how cyclones etc have challenged them over the years but now they aren’t afraid of them as they know they can overcome the obstacles. He said they had to close for a couple of months once so they created the 2 year pass so people can come back again to visit.

Jess and I said bye to Erica and Terry and headed back home. We stopped in Innisfail to get some dinner. It was wonderful to spend the day with Jess and get to know her. We got home just after Mum, Dad and Steve got home from Brothers. Steve was very happy – he won $70 on the pokies. Well done. That paid for my day out!!

Had a cuppa and told the others all about our day.