5
months on the road and still loving it. Never wore jumpers for so long though.
It is only 17 degrees in the van this morning and cloudy. Decided to drive down
to Cockle Cove to check out the camps etc as everyone has said how bad the road
is.
Passed
Cairns Bay and Cairns Road. Through Surges Bay then Glendevie where we could
turn off and head out to the coast again around to Dover. We took the main road
up the range past all the forestry plantations and into Dover. Definitely
wouldn’t want to be a truck driver in Tassie – the roads are too narrow.
Bigger apple orchards around here.
Lovely
bay at Dover.
Stopped
at the jetty to read all the great information in the hut.
The
anchor is to commemorate the Centenary of the Maatsuyker Island Lighthouse
1891-1991.
Turned
off and drove into Southport (love all the Qld names, makes me feel at home).
Stopped by the jetty for a cuppa. The water is very tannin-stained and lots of
weed. A boat was busy unloading its haul.
Will
have to check out the gem fossicking areas.
Across
the Lune River then Ida Bay where the historical train rides leave from. Will
check all these out later. Into the forestry area and passed the logging tracks
called Southport Spur No. and then South Cape Spur No. Saw a logging truck
about to pull out of one. The road is quite potholed and wet but we would bring
the van down. Back onto the water again at Recherche Bay, the site of historic
French landing sites in the late 1700s.
Through Moss Glen - they have big cleared grassy block with lovely
views, plenty of room to park the van!!
Stopped
at the plaque about Bruni D’Entrecasteaux’s landing sites.
Lovely
view over Recherche Bay. We are at the end of D’Entrecasteaux Channel where it
meets the Great Southern Ocean. Great view over the Bay to the open water.
Across
Catamaran River which flows from South Cape Range. Flowing well after the rain
we have had but it is very tannin-stained. This
area was a settlement with shops, school, coal fields, several mills and
population of up to 300. One of the largest coal mines in Tasmania and the last
whaling station. Annie McDougall (lumber ship) was built here and it was known
as “a poor man’s Venice”.
Around
to the Cockle Creek Campground, nice bay and beach here.
But
the campground is boggy. Further around the sites are tucked into the sand dunes
back from the beach – not so inviting and uneven.
Across
Cockle Creek – tannin-stained also – into the National Park. The mussels Steve
ate would be called cockles. You can’t collect them in the National Park
section.
Reading
the info I have apparently the mountains in the distance can be covered in
snow. Today they are just covered in clouds. The aborigines first encounter was
with the French, which was classed as an amicable meeting. The French
expeditions were focused on the scientific study of native flora, fauna,
geology and the waterways of Van Diemen’s Land. Late, for the aborigines,
contact with British settlers was not as friendly. They were removed from their
country here and placed at Bruny Island across the Channel. Recherche Bay itself,
sheltered from the wildest weather, provided some safe harbour for the influx
of early settlers, sealers and convicts. Early industries based initially on
coal-mining and whaling became established. Coal was sent to Hobart and the oil
produced from whales helped the emerging colony with lighting, cooking and the
manufacture of saps and corsets. The bronze whale sculpture at Adams Point pays
homage to this history. With such intense boating industry, and with early
access to this area only possible by sea, there was demand for ship-building
and local timber-milling was established. One of the features of this somewhat
sheltered coastline was that all forest eucalypts grew close to the shore,
making for convenient, though still dangerous, harvesting. Timber was not only
required for the local collieries and boat building, but for housing and
domestic needs. A number of mills were established around the bay over time,
with one mill at Cockle Creek run by women during World War 2. Tram tracks
spread out into the bush to retrieve logs from the hinterland. Fishing for food
was a necessity in such an isolated area and also became a source of income,
with Recherche Bay supplying Hobart and even London with oysters in the late 19th
Century. Sharks too were harvest for their liver oil and then became fertilizer
for domestic and market gardens which provided fresh vegetables for Hobart. More
info on the board in the Info Hut.
Cockle
Creek is at 43 degrees south and marks the southernmost point of Australia. Did
the pose shots before the rain starts again.
There
is a 4-5 hour walk across to South Cape Bay which is the beginning of the 6/7
day trek along the South Coast of Tasmania – think we will skip the long one.
Will do the South Cape Bay one as we don’t think we will bother with the 34km
return at Wilson’s Prom to the bottom of mainland Australia.
Drove
down to the walk to the Whale Sculpture (15 min) which then goes on to Fishers
Point (2hr return) but as the rain is now falling steadily we will come back
another day. The camp area in the National Park is small though if no one else
around we could park the van and you are well back from the beach.
There
are a few permanent houses here, some with good views, others tucked back into
the scrub.
Stopped
in the Catamaran River campground – good sized open area with access to good
boat ramp.
Would
be ok for us except nothing looks inviting when it is wet and muddy!! We like
our lovely grassy spot by the creek where we are. Might just do another day
trip down here when the sun is out again. Gilhams Beach and Finns Beach are
nice beaches but again they are only smallish campgrounds.
As
it is now 12.30 and there is no nice spot for lunch we just drove back to our
van. Took about hour & half. Nice warm lunch as it is getting quite cool.
The
water catcher has topped up the tanks and Steve has got the buckets out to fill
them too. Though we have the creek beside us it is quite tannin-stained. Quiet
afternoon blogging and Steve watched TV – good to have some down time so I can
catch up. 22 degrees top temp it said on the news, we have 17.6 degrees in the
van at 7pm. Steve took the temperature outside and it was 11.6 degrees at 8pm.
Erica and Terry rang for a chat and to see if we had web feet. Glad they are
both doing well.
Mum and Dad are at Queenstown.
Mum and Dad are at Queenstown.
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