Mon, 25th June, 2018 Bush camp, Tippipilla Creek, Birdsville Track, SA to Bush camp, Cuppa Creek, Qld (exploring)

7.45am 12 degrees, overcast and very cold wind. Sun trying to peek through.

Packed up in the cold wind!!

Headed off past the ‘closed’ Inside Track. See map.

The Inside Track – not maintained and is impassable when wet.

This track was the route used by drovers. It follows permanent waterholes of the Diamantina River as far as Goyders Lagoon. Cattle were then dry-staged for long distances between semi-permanent and casual waters until they reached Hergott Springs (Marree). Water evaporated rapidly and many mobs of cattle were trapped on the track without water. Thousands died. The first bore was drilled at Marree in 1884 and by 1907 water was flowing from most of the bores on the track, making the movement of stock much easier and safer.

We are going up the Outside Track. Still flat and rocky.

The Outside Track

This track was developed due to the inability of motor vehicles to negotiate mud and creek beds when crossing Goyders Lagoon in the wet. Cattle were still taken down the inside track until the 1960s but they are now moved by road transport along the outside track.

The sky is clearing ahead of us. Came to a sandridge which we have run alongside of and now we are going around the end of it and continuing on more flat ground. Across a sandridge then more flat country. I would miss not having mountains around me if I lived out here. Passed the turnoff south to Walkers Crossing which goes down to Moomba.

Next is the track beside Koonchera Dune. But as you need permission to go in we gave it a miss.

Koonchera Dune

This is one of the largest dunes on the Diamantina floodplain and is protected by heritage legislation. Samples of flora and fauna were taken in this area before cattle were introduced and rabbits drove out many of the small mammals. It is believed that a large number of Aborigines were massacred near Koonchera Waterhole. This was retribution by Europeans for the killing by Aborigines of a European who had taken an Aboriginal woman from the tribe. The dune is protected for these reasons.

Stopped to check out this old car sitting in the middle of nowhere.

Turned around to get a photo under the Birdsville Track sign. Interesting choice of picture as we haven’t done any dune climbing on the track.

Went around the back of the white sand ridge nearby trying to get out of the wind and dust to have a cuppa. Still windy but no dust here as it is all gibber stones.

Looking across the flat to the next sand ridge.

Further along we passed Geake Hill where a bit further east the Page Family passed away in 1963. Such a sad story – I had read the news article about them in the Marree Hotel.

Page Family Grave – Ernest Page and four members of his family left Marree on Christmas Day in 1963 heading for Queensland in search of work. After following a well-defined station track that took them away from the main road, their vehicle broke down and the family tried to walk back toward the Birdsville Track, presumably trying to reach Clifton Hills Station. A steel cross marks their grave near the coolabah tree under which they were found. The grave is on private property, some distance from the Birdsville Track.

More sand ridges appearing – average height 21 metres according to our Hema map. Onto Pandie Pandie Station. The track is running parallel with two sand ridges. Felt like we were back on the Canning Stock Route again though this track is a lot wider and well formed. Sandy flats now rather than the gibber stones.

The clearing sky has disappeared and dark clouds are coming over.

Then it rained!! You should have heard the sound of the mud being flicked up off the tyres. I took a video to record the racket.

Got through that and back onto the dusty track again.

Past some old and new yards then the airstrip and sheds for Pandie Pandie Station then the homestead which is near the banks of the Diamantina River. Average sand ridge height around here is 10 metres. It is looking more like a ‘desert’ here.

Lots of signs greet us as we head to the SA/Qld Border. I like the population number for the shire. The Diamantina Shire covers 95,000 square kilometres, yet is home to just 11 cattle stations.

Got a photo with the SA sign too.

Across the grid into ‘sunny’ Queensland!!

The border fence is called The Poeppel Line. It was named that to recognise the work of Surveyor Augustus Poeppel who led the survey party working on the Qld/SA border from1878 to 1881.

Back in Queensland. More signs.

Driving tips – Mobile Phones do work in Birdsville!

Continued north then turned off the main road and headed into Birdsville past the Race Track. The information plaque is very hard to read but I got one bit of info.

Stopped for a photo under the big info board. Great aerial photo on another sign.

Turned onto a track down through lush green grass as we head down to the Diamantina River.

Checked out the old crossing where the murky water is running under the causeway. Upstream then downstream. Maybe they got some of the storm.

Back out - the green grass is only in one area.

Across the bridge over the river – up then down.

More green grass as we head into town. There is a bore drain that flows down into a wetlands area before flowing into the Diamantina River downstream of the old crossing.

We will explore Birdsville when we return in October so we just did a drive around past the ruins of the Royal Hotel. Will have to have a drink at the pub next time. The airstrip is ‘in town’.

Stopped at the iconic Birdsville Bakery. We forget about the time change so we were late for ‘lunch’. Luckily there were a couple of pies left, lamb for Steve and spicy chicken for me. Must say it was very tasty but the pastry wasn’t cooked. We had camel pie at Lara’s so we didn’t need to have one here which is what they are famous for. There are lots of great photos hanging on the walls.

Interesting toilet roll holder!

Sturt Desert Peas in the front garden.

Checked out the Information Centre. More rain predicted so we will continue on. Lots to look at. Found the Burke & Wills Slash Tree replica, one of the busts of Tom Kruse (the mailman), Poeppel’s plaque and info about Gibber Stones and Moon Rocks.

Great aerial photo of Birdsville and a scary one of a sand storm.

Another wall had more information boards.

Picked up brochures etc and then headed down the road to the Artesian Bore. A chap was working there so the cooling pond was empty.

We drove back out to where people can camp and topped up the water tanks. A cute little bird was having a lovely bath.

A few texts had come through so we returned some calls. Rang Malcolm to give him road conditions in case they want to come up through Marree. Rang Erica to say we are heading their way. They are still at Sapphire so we will join them there instead of Woodgate. Rang Mum and Dad, doing well. Dad said when they were in Birdsville the race track was covered in a foot of grass after all the flood water. Sent the boys texts so they know we are alive!! Pete had texted so gave him a ring too. We have done 7515km so far since we left the van on 1^st May.

Past the old Windmill then down to the Burke & Wills Slash Tree for a cuppa. The sign is facing away from the tree so people drove up and we had to point it out to them. Lucky I took a photo of the replica as there isn’t anything left here.

Rang Bob & Margaret then Kev and Linda for a chat.

Turned onto the Birdsville Developmental Road – bitumen for just a bit. A few more drops of rain then it got heavier. There is a lot more places and things to see out here but we will do that one day when we explore this region in more detail. We have done the Matilda Highway with the boys years ago.

Over a few red sand hills then crested one for a lovely green view - water from a dam on the right. Back into red gibber stone country with a few hills as we enter Roseberth Station.

A few bitumen sections over floodplains and crests. Over a RFDS landing strip on the road.

Storm clouds are still around us dropping rain here and there.

Onto Durrie Station, over flats then red sand ridges with more gibber stones. Good road.

Lots of trees in Cuppa Creek but the creek was dry.

We found a spot up the creek to camp. There are lots of dead trees for the fire.

The sun is shining in the west under a big cloud. The wind has settled and no more drops of rain – so far!

Our route for today.

The wind picked up then we heard thunder rumble and a few flashes of lightning. That storm went west – great watching the lightning strikes. The wind then changed and it blew straight into the bed side of the truck. We shifted things around just as the rain came down. Closed the kitchen door and climbed into bed then pulled that door down too listening to the tarps flap in the wind, hoping the awnings hang in there.