Sun, 19th June, 2022 Cockburn Rest Area, corner Victoria & Great Northern Highways, west of Kununurra to El Questro Station, Gibb River Road, WA (Emma Gorge, Saddleback & Pigeon Hole Lookouts)

Another month has passed since Mum moved on and a day doesn’t pass when I don’t think of her and Dad.

Warmer night, only 17 degrees at 6am. Forgot to get a photo of the ‘thong tree’ - needs more thongs. Also the sign out the front on the big rock. Not sure why it is here.

7am on the road again. Over the rise - lovely view of the hills.

Turned onto the Gibb River Road which was constructed to transport cattle from surrounding stations to the ports at Derby and Wyndham. It is 700km through the Kimberley Plateau. We have done the north section up to Wyndham, now to head west on it. Times are changing of course and now it is bitumen to past El Questro turn off and they are working on the road to continue the bitumen across. Seems a shame as that is part of the lure, though those whose cars and vans break would think it is a good thing. Bit like the bypass road to Cape York being bitumen.

Took some photos by the big road sign.

Pulled into the rest area to check out the info boards. Looking forward to checking out all the gorges and waterfalls.

Guys were getting their bull catchers off to do some mustering except one of the bull catchers won’t start and it has just had a rebuild.

Off we go. Funny little hill beside the escarpment.

Great views of part of the Cockburn Ranges from here.

A helicopter buzzed overhead - chasing the cattle out.

Rolling up and down rises and through gullies what would be flooded in the wet. Across the King River (upstream of where we were camped). Just a lagoon here.

Cockburn Range looms up on our right as we cross the river. Bit like the boabs - I take so many then I have say no more but they are so magnificent. One more before we turn into Emma Gorge. The sign said Emma Gorge Resort so hope we are on the right track.

Dirt track in with puddles of water where Emma Creek crosses the track. View up the gorge.

Saw the resort then the car park and signs about the walk up Emma Gorge. The resort is part of the El Questro Wilderness Park so we can pay for our Park Pass when we book into the camping area at El Questro itself. Got a map from reception. The walk is 3.2km return with two pools for swimming though the top on is the best. There is a small thermal pool there too.

We were surprised when the phone rang as I didn’t think we would have reception. It was Annalise returning my call when she was at work. Lovely to hear from here.

I went to the toilets first and a lady squealed. She had a big green frog in her toilet. That brings back memories of living in Redlynch as a little kid - they were always in the toilet.

Off we go at 8.15am. Interesting to read the notes about the damage Cyclone Ingrid did in March 2005 when it dumped 500mm of rain here, burying the resort under tons of sand and debris. Now it is all good again. Wandering alongside the creek though it is hidden by the tall grasses. The original track was made in the mid 1990s.

I just clicked away as we wandered along. We saw a couple in front of us where we have to rock hop over some water. The lady was sitting down so I went around to see if she was ok. She had slipped on the wet rocks and her husband was trying to lift her up so I got behind and helped. She was laughing so much and wasn’t hurt which was good. They were older with hiking sticks so they let up go by and said they would just potter along.

Track getting rockier with pools of water in the creek as we continue upwards. View across to Flagstaff Falls which is dry now. It is a raging torrent in the wet, plunging down the cliff 112m to the ground. You can just see the black where the waterfall starts.

Continued on then the big boulders started. Interesting markings on some rocks. Spotted another dry waterfall off to the right but it isn’t mentioned on the map.

Over some more big boulders then into the rainforest section.

The note said Fern Pool was renamed No Fern Pool after the cyclone rain had washed away all the ferns. They have grown back now. We are following little blue squares. Lots of different plants and some very tall trees too.

Next stop is Turquoise Pool where we can have a dip but we decided to get to the top pool first.

Climbed up the side - the water is so clear. Sheer cliff on the other side.

Up and over more rocks to the top - looking down on Turquoise Pool.

Lucky I have Steve to find the markers so I can just follow along taking photos.

At Emma Pool at last. Sheer cliffs on each side and a thin stream of water coming down the falls. Time for a selfie.

The water is dripping down from the cliff above us onto the rocks.

Nice spot to get in. The ladies, Janette & Carol, that we were chatting to last night beat us here and were enjoying the warmth of the thermal spring coming out of the rocks behind them. I took a photo of them and will send it too them when we get back in phone reception. Only a few other people here at the moment which is lovely.

I stripped off and in I went. It was freezing. Nearly as cold as Millaa Falls. Then I got in the thermal pool to warm up again.

Steve went in with a splash.

The warm water trickles out of these rocks.

I swam across to the waterfall and on the way back just floated looking up - so peaceful. Steve tried to take a photo but zoomed in and it went blurry as it couldn’t focus.

I swam back out with the camera to take a photo straight up but it doesn’t capture the view like my eyes do. Treaded water and took some more photos.

More people started arriving, then more. Got dressed. So glad we came early to enjoy it before all the children arrive and start having ‘fun’.

Back to Turquoise Pool where a few family groups were milling around. Apparently they had spotted a small freshwater croc but he soon disappeared when the chap walked around the other side. He decided to go in the water any case with a big splash.

Worked our way back chatting with more people heading up. Steve nearly jumped back onto me as a snake who also got a fright we reckon tried to get out of Steve’s way. He was about 1.5m long and we think a python. He quickly disappeared into the shrub.

I missed this on the way up. It is called Ripple Rock. This is formed by sediment deposited in the flowing water millions of years ago. Found some other interesting ones too.

Back to the camper and the car park is all full and they are parked down along the track too. So glad we came early. Had a cuppa then headed back out to the main road.

A big truck full of dirt is heading west - probably to do with the road works underway along the Gibb. Another view of part of the Cockburn Range heading west and on the other side normal hills.

Rolling up and down the rises still through a lot of floodways as we travel along the road 11km to the turn off into El Questro Station. Still a lot of boabs but I think I have taken too many of them already which I have done now with the ranges but they are all so different. Stopped at the info boards. Note the spelling mistake on the board for El Questro.

16km down the dirt track, winding through hills. A few vehicles at Amalia Gorge, then the turn off to Zebedee Springs - will check them out on the way out. Next is the turn off to El Questro and Moonshine Gorges - that has the deep water crossing through the Pentecost River. Then Jackeroo Waterhole. Lots to explore. Couldn’t pass up this Boab for a photo.

First water crossing, Moonshine Creek. Rocky base - all good. The photo makes the pool look shorter than it was.

Bit deeper through the Pentecost River.

Saw the sign for Champagne Springs as we rise out of the creek crossing then down the track past horses and helicopters and lots of bright bougainvillea. Went into Reception and paid for two nights ($100) and our week Wilderness Pass ($44). Their site map needs fixing up as we got a bit confused but eventually found a spot to park in one of the many unpowered areas. There are 4 rows of powered and they are squished together under the trees. We dropped the camper off so we can explore with just the truck.

Went for a walk down to the river where there are more unpowered areas though not flat and lots of shade for those not having to worry about getting solar power. Only a couple of spots with a view of the river. The powered section is full up.

Had lunch, has warmed up to 34 degrees. Walked over to the ‘swimming’ area. Passed some glamping tents with air conditioners.

Unfortunately the pools (rock walled sections) are downstream from the crossing so are brown from all the vehicles going in and out.

Lovely green grass around the ‘township’ where there is an artist creating interesting paintings and on clothing and boab seeds. There is a mechanic, fuel, shop and cafe and bar. A few of the buildings have the rock walls.

I asked at Reception about the history and they said ‘you learn that on one of their tours’. So I googled it instead. The pastoral lease was first established in 1903. El Questro was named by Torrance McMicking in 1958 when he pegged the claim - why that name no-one knows. The pastoral lease has changed hands many times. In 1991 Will and Celia Burrell purchased it as they saw the tourism potential and over the next 14 years developed it into a Kimberley Experience. The pastoral station is 700,000 acres, 80km north to south and 60km east to west which includes the Cockburn Range. The Burrells sold it to General Property Trust in 2005 then they sold it to Delaware North (Buffalo, New York) in March 2010. In 2021 it returned to Australian owners with G’day Group purchasing it. There are three types of accommodation - Emma Gorge offers safari cabins, The Station (bungalows and camping) and The Homestead (luxury rooms & suites). Will have to win Lotto to stay at the Homestead and to take the helicopter rides which go up to Lost City, Miri Miri Falls and Amaroo Falls. There is also a cruise up Chamberlain Gorge, tours and horse rides.

Will have to keep an eye out for Jill.

There are info boards for each of the walks and a paper map of the area.

Back to the camper for a cuppa. A young boy was getting his whip-cracking practice - he was very good.

Headed out the campground and along side the airstrip. There are 30 ‘private sites’ along the river too which have tracks going off this main track. There aren’t much dearer ($65/night) but we didn’t no about them when we booked. Passed a few of their tracks then turned off to go up to the Saddleback Ridge lookout. 

Across the Pentecost River.

Glad we don’t have the camper on. I spotted a car making its way up the hillside. Bit steep.

No more photos as I was holding my breath but Steve was very comfortable and Smokey did it no worries. There were a couple of tight switch-backs, one we had to do a back up to get around. Stopped at the top of the first hill to check out the view. The dust is the road heading out to the other lookouts and Chamberlain Gorge etc. Looking across the ‘saddle’ to the lookout then down to the back of the campground where the water tanks area.

Zoomed in on Champagne Gorge.

Watched another couple wobbled its way down the slope and across to the lookout then we followed. Another look over ‘The Station’ then along the road and the Pentecost River below us.

Watched some others head back. Rocky ‘step ups’ as they climb up the other side but Steve is confident Smokey will do it with ease.

Our turn, wobbly but no worries. The photo doesn’t do the ‘step ups’ justice. Down the other side. I can take photos going down!

Heaps of rosellas in the long grass but we still have plenty of jam left so we didn’t stop to pick them.

Back through the Pentecost again - looking upstream this time.

Along the track following others so just seeing dust as we head towards the setting sun. Pigeon Hole Lookout is good for sunset apparently so we decided to get there early to get a park. Across the river again. Photos all around this time.

Up the steep straight track to a junction. No signs but a car was coming down so we checked with them. Lookout to the left. The other track goes up a rough track and down to the billabong which the lady had marked was closed on our map but there isn’t a road closed sign here. Backed up so we can put the chairs on the back for drinks as the sun sets at 5.03pm. We are an hour early so we went for a walk. First down to a platform overlooking the Pentecost River.

Walked up to the top of the hill - looking back over the track we came here on back to Saddleback.

There is a track through the grass on the ridge which we followed. View down to the Chamberlain River/Gorge where the boat cruise leaves from.

On the other side the rocky area of the Pentecost. The Chamberlain meets the Pentecost below this hill and then the Pentecost continues around and across these rocks then down the other side we were looking at before then continues out to where we will cross it on the Gibb River Road.

Love the sloping hills. The dust looks like mist over the trees.

Headed back - can just make out a bit of the Cockburn Range from here too.

Back to the truck and set the chairs up. There is a tour group on the other spot and a couple of others up at the picnic table at the top so it isn’t as crowded as I thought it might be.

The sunset was a bit of a fizzer as the sun just descended behind the hill but the later colours were nice with a few smoky clouds.

5.30 drove back in the dark through the dust. The ‘township’ generator is noticeable now the campground has quietened down but it is a constant sound. Like the roar of the rapids we have camped beside before.

Had dinner and watched a movie as it is cool outside.