Wednesday, 20 January 2016

Mon, 18th Jan, 2016 Plush’s Bend, Renmark to SS Ellen Park, Lyrup, SA (exploring the area & Lock 4)


6am sunrise – cool breeze. Lots of corellas squawking in the distance.


28 degrees at 7.30am. The boom boom has started to get rid of the birds on the orchards.

Packed up and headed south along the Sturt Highway to the Almond Hut. The almond plantation we saw just before we came into SA is one of theirs. Bought some cinnamon covered, hot & spicy and smoked almonds to enjoy with our afternoon drinks.


Continued down the highway (110km/hr) passed the Murray River National Park area of Lyrup Flats. Of course there are fees for camping in the National Parks so we are heading for a free camp near the Lyrup Ferry. They have left a few ferries along the Murray so tourists can enjoy the experience of the bygone era – though they are all modern ferries now. The first Lyrup punt started operating here in 1918.



Down into the SS Ellen Park just near the ferry. Parked under the trees as it is going to be 38 degrees today.



Lyrup is first and one of 11 settlement sites chosen along the upper Murray of South Australia to become the homes for many unemployed men around Adelaide. 40 men, their wives, 49 single men and 114 youths and children had been selected to occupy the Lyrup Settlement. They were brought up by train to Morgan then along the Murray on the SS Ellen which arrived here about 8am on Thursday, 22 February, 1894. The food supplies, bedding, furniture, tarpaulins (intended to become shelter) etc were unloaded onto the riverbank. Iron timber, ploughs and heavy items followed on the Paddle-steamer Gem. What an amazing experience for them all. The settlers immediately set to work. Men went into the bush with axes and saws to fell native pine trees to make the framework for shelters. The women and some men set to work cutting and sewing the old, flea infested railway tarpaulins. A baker’s oven was constructed and a vegetable garden was dug. Seeds of turnips, peas, beans, cabbages, cauliflowers and seed potatoes were planted within the first week. Our pioneers were willing to try anything. Sadly a 10 year old boy drowned in a nearby creek on the 28th Feb so they had to quickly decide on where to put the cemetery. Lyrup is the only village of the 11where the Village Association still exists. Today the function of this association is the ownership and operation of irrigation and drainage facilities for the horticultural blocks now owned by the association members. It also supplies domestic water to the Lyrup Village area.



Had some lunch under the trees by the river as it was already 36 degrees in the van. The other vanners are from Adelaide – they plugged into the power for $5 a day so they can run their air conditioners. Must admit we put the aircon on in the truck as we headed off to explore.

The site of the first Lyrup pump near the park area.



Along the road was the site of the second Lyrup pump.


Along the back roads through the Gurra Gurra wetlands area. There was even a Tortoise Crossing area.


Onto Bookpurnong Road over Gurra Gurra Creek bridges.


A steep climb up the cliff face onto the high ground then we turned off towards Lock 4. Got a view from up high for a change.


Down to the carpark.


Pretty vine taking over the gardens.


Weir & Lock 4, Bookpurnong, is 516 km from the mouth, 13.2 metres above sea level and was construction completed in 1929. The maximum lift from the lower pool is 3.4 metres. Each lockage at this head of water would release approximately 4,850,000 litres of water. Interesting to note that the locks downstream of the Darling River (Wentworth) are larger (83m) locks than those upstream (51.5m).









The flow meter and another flood height chart.

Looking downstream.

Just love the colours in the river red gums – though I should remember to take my sunglasses off as the colours are much better with the glasses on!!

The weir and looking upstream.


Information about Katfish Reach – another style of fishway.


The Salt Interception Scheme.


The lock master’s house.


Back out to the main road then we turned straight away to travel down the side of the hillside towards the Murray, upstream of the Lock. Across the Murray is another part of the MR Nat Park called Katarapko.

Followed the road down to the end to look at Booky Cliffs.


Back up the main road towards Berri. Berri began as a sheep station in 1910.Over the bridge spanning the very wide Murray River.



Unusual Info Centre on the riverfront.

Stopped to check out ‘A Special Place for Jimmy James’, an aboriginal tracker who helped the police a lot. Nice spot – the dead trees would have been on the original river bank before the Lock raised the river level.

Jimmy was named South Australian of the Year in 1983 and awarded the Order of Australia in 1984. He passed away in 1991 (born about 1910) and is buried at Gerard Aboriginal Reserve. Nice spot and the mural is so shiny the river is reflected in it.





A bit further along was a boat ramp into a pond off the Murray. All this would normally have been dry except that the Lock keeps the water level up now.

Walked back to the truck – looking up at the bridge.

An old pump but no info about it.

Even though it was hot we decided we needed the exercise – hopped on the scales this morning!! Continued along the riverfront. What is now used as a boat ramp used to be the ferry crossing up until 1997. The round concrete thing held the wire rope. Looking across to the other side.



Droughts and Floods – bit hard to photograph as it is shiny and the plastic over the top has been scratched up. The Murray River around Berri has an average width of 200m and an average depth of 6 metres.

The Berri Resort Hotel and foreshore.



Berri origins and photo of the foreshore in the 1920s.


Riverfront and Recreation – we think these are the steps down to the Olympic Pool they had created beside the Murray – as there is a sign saying ‘Beware submerged structures’.


Paddle steamers and river trade.

Wallis Terrace – fancy living in those tents.


Surveyor’s bench mark – marking the commencement of the Berri Bridge construction.


The pumping station.




Walked over the pipes to under the bridge.

It took over 30 years of lobbying the government to get a bridge over the Murray here as the queues to use the ferry were getting so long. It is designed that if one of the piers is knocked out the rest will hold the bridge up.


Under the bridge was a mural of aboriginal dreamtime.






But don’t get too close!! Though it looked like someone’s worldly possessions were scattered everywhere.

Back along the riverfront – looking up the main street with the War Memorial in the middle.



At the Info Centre we found the flood marker by the water.

Another one of the River Boat Trail boards showing where the wrecks are and why there aren’t any Murray Cod left – looks like a photo of my dad with the barra he caught up north!!



Lovely mosaic chairs along the walk.

Checked in the Info Centre for more brochures and maps and Steve asked about the speed boat USA v Aust race this weekend - $25 and $30 a day to come and watch.

Back to the truck for a cold apple and water – got a bit warm out there!! Drove down to Martin Bend where the ski club have a lease over some riverfront then there is a cheap camp area $5 per night but back in the bush – no water front views here. We have been spoilt with our campsites so far.

Back into town and up the main street lined with pine trees.

We thought they were art work but I think it is a climbing frame for whatever is growing inside.

Stopped at the water tower that is now a lookout. 100 stairs up!! The last ones were inside the tower.



Nice view over Berri and the Murray River.



Zoomed in on the Booky Cliffs.

Good time to check out the top of the truck is all ok. Our $1.50 windscreen reflector has been a godsend.

Part of the wetlands.

Continued on the Old Sturt Highway to Barmera and Lake Bonney.

Went down to the water’s edge for a cuppa under a shady tree. You can camp along the edge of the lake where it isn’t lawn or fenced – so that will be the scrub area on the other side.



Around the edge to the Information Hut. The lake is fed from the Murray River through Chambers Creek wetlands.


Drove into the tracks checking out the camp spots. Found  a few but there isn’t much shade so might come late one arvo so we can watch the sunset and sunrise and then head off before it gets too hot. I think my little camera takes some wonderful photos!!

At the northern end of the lake is site of Napper’s Lake Bonney Hotel.







The store and cellar have been completely vandalised.

Across Nappers Bridge over Chamber Creek. I see on the map there is a Pelican Point further down but at the moment I think they are all here.


Back on the road and into Glossop where I managed a few photos of Berri Estates Winery which has been a fundamental part of Berri’s existence since 1918 making it one of Australia’s oldest wineries. Berri is surrounded by 3000 hectares of irrigated vineyards and orchards.






The tall date palms stand out.

Across the bridge and down Old Ferry Road – the other side of the ferry crossing.

6pm and back to the truck and it feels like midday (40 degrees in the van)!! Had a drink and some of our almonds while the birds entertained us with their chatter.

One water hen and some ducks came to visit too.


The great maps they have for each area are really good.

Erica rang, returning our call. All well there.

Sat outside for dinner and watched TV till 10pm then cold shower and off to bed. Nice spot but the ferry is 24 hour so between that and the street light we will be happy to be back in the bush!!


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