2 Geckos Travelling Australia: Wed, 27th Jan, 2016 Morgan Conservation Park, Morgan to bush camp on Murray River, Blanchetown, SA (Cliffs, Weir & Lock 1)

6.30am we had a few drops of rain.

8am it was 25 degrees and all quiet on the river. The clouds are moving away but it is very still.

Hooked up and headed south along the Murray towards Blanchetown. Up high on the cliff top. Great views down over the Murray River as it rounds Pelican Point – downstream then upstream.

Flat and open on the other side. No wineries or orchards here.

Through Murbko where the road was lined with banksias in bloom and a vineyard.

Then a huge fruit orchard as the river spreads into lagoons all the way down to Blanchetown with high cliffs on one side then the other.

Further along was a big poultry farm with another lot of sheds further over.

A floodplain which is where the Roonka Conservation Park is – might have to camp there if we can’t find something at Blanchetown – no free camps listed near here.

Onto the Sturt Highway and across the bridge over the Murray.

Cliffs on one side and the Weir & Lock 1 on the other.

Turned off the highway quickly, as there are lots of trucks zooming by, into Blanchetown. Only a small place high on the cliff top. Down the road to the Weir.

So many pelicans.

Weir & Lock 1.

Zoomed in on the machinery used to lift out the concrete stops.

Walked down past the old buildings, noting the 1956 flood level signs.

Lovely roses in the garden.

Blanchetown Weir & Lock 1 is also called the William Randall after the paddle-steamer captain.

The flood levels.

Mister Pelican waiting for a fish to pop out of the leaking Lock gates.

The Cormorants balancing again.

Lower flow level here.

Upstream.

Engineering plaque. The Weir is 169 metres long, the lock is 84m x 17m and the original cost was $260,000; replacement cost now is $80-90 million. In 2011-2012 there were 604 lockages with 1129 vessels passing through the lock and 12,542 people on board.

Lots of old photos.

The modern way of putting in the stop logs.

Interesting article in the Sunday Mail about the lock workman putting the ‘plug’ back into the Murray at the end of the 1973 flood.

They have a carp trap here where the cod and other fish swim deep the carp swim on the surface and go into a trap as they go through the Fishway. Amazing numbers of carp being removed.

Interesting story about the ferry operator during the 1956 floods making his own ferry. Shame the photos are getting so faded.

Other photos of the flood you can’t make out anymore except this one showing the Lock area - the top of the little building I took a photo of that had the 1956 level near the roof.

I downloaded some info from the Murray River Tourism about the 1956 flood trying to find out why it happened. Great map showing the area affected.

1956 Murray River Floods

The 1956 floods occurred due to higher than average rainfalls in Western Queensland along with heavy rains three months prior in the Murray catchment areas such as the Murrumbidgee and Lachlan Rivers. The floods peaked at 12.3 metres in Morgan. Some areas were flooded up to 100 km from the natural flow of the river.

Victoria and New South Wales

1956 Flood at Merbein

The 1956 flood moved down the Murray and Darling Rivers for seven months and peaked between 11 and 14 August. It was the highest level flood recorded at Merbein since the irrigation district was established in 1909.

The River Road from Mildura to Merbein was initially protected from the flood water by levee banks in three places during the 1956 floods. All three banks are still readily distinguishable.

Two of the levee banks broke and the River Road between Mildura and Merbein was then flooded.

The ‘mad mile’ levee at the bottom of Pump Hill broke on Monday July 30th. Motorists journeying to Merbein at the time recall having to turn around and return to Mildura and come back to Merbein via Seventeenth Street. Merbein residents then had to go to Mildura via Seventeenth Street until the floods receded and the road was repaired many months later.

The Shilliday’s corner (3MA) levee broke on August 7. This flooded large areas of horticulture and houses in the area. A number of properties were on an island with the only access provided by the railway embankment. From this time it was deemed the embankments were not stable enough. The trains to Yelta and Merbein were cancelled for some months.

On Friday August 17, the Mildura Shire announced they had carried out earthworks on the narrow railway embankment allowing the only access to the outside world for the island’s farmers. This was strictly a private road for the residents of the island to get their produce to market. At this time the Old Wentworth Road, past the Merbein Race Course, was also flooded along with the road to the Merbein Cemetery, at the bottom of Second Street.

Security of the Merbein Pumping Station

During the flood Sunraysia was very vulnerable as the district’s electricity generators were on the river banks at Red Cliffs and Mildura and there were no other sources of electricity coming into Sunraysia at that time. The Merbein irrigation pumps were reliant on the Red Cliffs generator and were therefore at risk both from local flooding and a lack of electricity, if the Red Cliffs Power Station was flooded.

Merbein was very fortunate in that, for the greater part, it was situated well above the flood plain. The pumping station was, however, below river level and protected by a levee. The local growers, many of whom were returned service men from World War 1 & 2, rallied the Merbein community and rostered ‘blockies’ (farmers) to use tractors and trailers and fill sand bags to build and reinforce the station’s levee banks. The electric motors were removed to safety at the Mildara Winery.

With the flood nearing its peak, the wash from the passing paddle boat PS Wanera is believed to have caused a break in the levee bank on the river road; suddenly dropping the river height at the pumping station and affording temporary relief.

The growers and townspeople were successful in protecting the Merbein Irrigation Pumping Station at the foot of Pump Hill which was owned and operated by the State Rivers and Water Supply Commission of Victoria. The pumping station at the foot of Pump Hill supplied water to 10,000 acres of vines and citrus for over 400 irrigators in the Merbein Irrigation District.

1956 Wentworth Floods

Wentworth, NSW, lies at the heart of the Murray Darling Basin, at the confluence of Australia’s two greatest rivers, where the Darling joins the Murray. The town is vulnerable during flood times, but Wentworth has endured many since the ‘biggest on record’ in 1870.

For those living in Wentworth today, the 1956 flood lives on in their memory. A clay levee bank surrounding the town and a tractor monument are reminders of the flood that threatened the town.

The flood

The 1956 ‘event’ was unique as a sustained deluge occurred down the east coast of Australia, along the Great Dividing Range and beyond. Floodwaters raced towards Wentworth from two rivers – the Darling and its tributaries from the north, the Murray and its ‘feeders’ from the south.

Local knowledge played a big part in determining what could be done. Day and night for several months the townspeople, Ferguson tractors and the Army and Navy worked to avert disaster by building levees around the town. Those levees held back 80 miles of water for months.

The Fergie tractor

The NSW government had provided Harry Ferguson TEA20 tractors to WWII returned soldiers when they gave them their federal land allotments and irrigation systems. The Ferguson tractors were light, manoeuvrable machines, with Harry’s unique 3-point linkage for the interchange of implements, and were indispensable in the huge task in front of everyone.

During Wentworth’s 1959 centenary celebrations the first tractor monument in the world was unveiled – the then Town Clerk was quoted as saying “By God and by Fergie, we beat the flood.”

Fergie Tractor Rallies are held every 5 years to commemorate a mammoth effort by a community committed to fight enormous odds and determined to win.

The Fergie Tractor monument, Australia’s first monument to the Fergie tractor, stands at the corner of Adams and Adelaide streets in Wentworth.

South Australia

The Flood - 1956 - Renmark and Paringa

The first signs of warning came in May, when reports were received of unusual high levels in the Darling. This coupled with heavy rains in other parts of the catchment area, saw the Murray rise steadily. By the end of May, low lying areas were already inundated, and people and livestock were being evacuated.
In early June, Renmark’s 21st Street was closed off, and by the end of the month, the Sturt Highway between Renmark and Paringa was also out of action. The situation was eased by the introduction of a rail shuttle service between the two towns.

An emergency flood committee was formed, and the whole community became involved in the fight to save the town. ‘Crash Gangs’ were formed - standing by with trucks laden with sandbags and emergency equipment.

By mid August, 1,500 people had been evacuated, leaving some 800 men, women and children to battle the rising floodwaters. Shops and businesses operated with minimum staff and for reduced hours, so that as many people as possible were available to fill and transport the sandbags. Volunteers came with heavy machinery from other areas to help. A canteen was set up in the Institute, providing up to 700 meals a day, for weeks on end.

The highest level of the official gauge at the Renmark Wharf read 27 feet (approx. 9 metres). An extra length of 3 feet (approx. 1 metre) was added, with the words - ‘After this, all out.

The gauge itself disappeared underwater; with the official peak of the 1956 flood being determined as 30’ 7 ¾ (approx. 10.2 metres). The peak came towards the end of August with the High School, Hospital, and homes and properties in Hale Street flooded. The Ral Ral Bridge collapsed, serious breaks in the levee banks at Angove’s and the No.3 irrigation pump and the Crescent area flooded.

The people of Renmark never considered that the fight to save the town could not be won and it was their faith and determination, which helped them to fight for victory.

Despite the town itself being saved, the damage to houses, horticultural properties and town facilities was wide spread and the effects of the flood lasted for many years. Government grants for rehabilitation work in Renmark amounted to more than $770,000 and assistance was also given to families from voluntary donations to the Lord Mayor’s Relief Fund.

Mannum 1956 Floods

The Murray River floods are an essential element in the ecological system.

Bird life, fish breeding and growth of trees and shrubs require periodical floods to sustain their place in the life system surrounding the river environs. Unfortunately, major floods have also been disastrous to the modern economy along the river.

River dwellers, farmers and business people have seen their homes and properties submerged and often damaged beyond repair. Big floods mean great trauma to some people and they often do not recover.

The 1956 Murray River flood is considered to be the greatest catastrophe in South Australia’s history and is the largest flood ever recorded in the state. 1917, 1931 and the floods of the nineteenth century had been large, but nothing like this. The flood occurred due to excessive, heavy rains in Queensland, New South Wales and Victoria which supplied the interstate farmers with more than enough to irrigate their crops. The Murray and the Darling were both in flood at the same time and the swelling excess water made its way to South Australia. Main river towns suffered enormously with much of the commercial and residential areas submerged for several months. The flood waters hit Mannum in July 1956.

Mud and debris were deposited everywhere and smelt horrible.

Six hundred homes in the district were flooded, as well as two hundred holiday shacks. Some were totally destroyed. The ferry was out of operation for over six months and new roads had to be built on higher ground above the flood level. Children were ferried across the river in a boat to get to school and the bus was kept on the Cowirra side of the river. Many of the businesses operating on Randell Street were devastated. The bowling green was underwater, the bakery was temporarily relocated to Adelaide Road and men had to row their boats to the pubs which were serving from bars on the first floor.

However, life went on as close to normal as possible. Rowers trained in Mannum’s main street.

Further up river, orchardists lost trees and vines. These had to be replanted and the owners lost several years income. At the height of the 1956 flood an estimated 15000 people visited Mannum in one day just to see the flood. – disasters seem to attract the crowds.

The Museum’s street scene is set up to recreate Mannum’s main street, Randell Street. Photographic records show major floods of 1890, 1917, 1931 and the biggest and most recent major flood of 1956, including television footage and stories from the newspapers of the day. Visit the Mannum Museum.

Cyclone Agnes came into Queensland then headed south from 23 Feb to 7 Mar, 1956 – I was wondering if they had any impact on the unseasonal rainfall.

This is the Harrison Report, for the River Murray Commission.

I went into the office to ask about campspots and if there were any boats coming through the Lock today. He said the big Murray Princess is due about 3 so come at 2.30 in case she is early. He said we can camp by the river for free near the bridge on the other bank. Thanked him – very helpful chap. Near the truck was a little house and sign about the 1841 original settlement Moorundie, the first settlement on the River Murray in South Australia. But after lots of flooding they moved here and settled Blanchetown in 1855.

Headed back up the steep road through Blanchetown and across the bridge to set up our camp. You can see the original shore line (the dead trees and island) before the Weir backed up the water.

Found a nice spot – not sure how the road noise will be tonight as it is the Sturt Highway over the bridge and there are plenty of trucks going back and forth.

We can see the Lock from here.

The houseboats are moored under the high limestone cliffs.

Had lunch then I worked on my blog while Steve took the rubbish down to the bins. 2pm and I can’t find him anywhere. I walked down to the ski/swim area.

Not there so headed down towards the bridge and there he was wandering along!! He had been picking up rubbish – can’t believe people can be such pigs.

Drove 2km down along this side of the Murray to the lookout high on the cliffs, overlooking the holiday homes on the bend. The ‘Murray Princess’ was heading to the lock so I snapped some photos then headed back to the Lock.

They have laid down the artificial smoke stacks so they can get under the bridge.

Down to the Lock as she came into view. The gates start opening.

The Cormorants all waiting in line.

In she comes – takes up nearly all the Lock. The two tenders helping guide her are tied up at the front. Got her on video.

She’s in, close the gates. The captain was rolling the paddle wheel back and forth getting her in the right position.

We walked down to the edge of the Lock for a closer look. Chatted with the lock worker – he said most of the passengers are over 70 and it is a three night cruise from Mannum – will have to tell Mum and Dad about it. Told Steve he can take me on that one when we are ‘older’.

The Lock chamber starts filling.

Zoomed in on the steering wheel though the Captain was using the controls on the side of the boat to guide it into the Lock.

The Lock Chamber is filled to the 3.2 metre height of the weir pool. The tenders head out first.

Now she is up higher.

Off she goes upstream, gently going out the Lock.

Cranked up the paddle-wheels and off she goes towards and under the bridge.

Went in to chat with the lock workmen again in their air-conditioned room as the wind has picked up from the west and is quite hot. Asked why there are two bridges but only one used. The closer one was built in the 1960s when trucks were lighter. When they started using B-doubles etc the bridge was deemed unsafe. For many years the trucks had to go up to Morgan to cross the river on the ferry. Eventually in 1990 the new bridge was built – it is actually part of the Sturt Highway.

The river level sits at 0.6 metres above sea level most of the time. It can drop to 0.4 and go up to 1.2m depending on what’s happening downstream. If there are king tides or strong winds pushing the salt water upstream, they close the barrages, hence the water doesn’t flow down to the mouth for a while.

We chatted about their job which they agree is a great lifestyle and one that you don’t give up till to retire or die, so it is hard to get a job. It used to be a ‘hand-me-down’ type job from father to son, some are four generation lockmen, but now it isn’t so much.

The 2010-11 flood got to about a foot below the yellow line on the lock chamber wall or just under the walkways on the pier. They pulled out the navigable passage as they hadn’t done it before but they didn’t let any boats got through it. Nice chaps.

We drove down to the park just downstream of the lock to make a cuppa. Found some more River Boat Trail boards.

Lock 1 and Weir from downstream.

Just noticed they aren’t letting water over the navigable pass – maybe because it is the widest weir they don’t need to.

The Murray Princess has moored near our van.

The guys said to drive down the end of the road for a good view of the cliffs at sunset. Passed all the holiday homes lining the river edge – not sure how they would go with a good flood!! Parked at the old boat ramp on the bend. Looking back upstream towards the lock.

Around the bend they have a great view of the cliffs.

They said to go through the fence – everyone else does but I think we take the hint, not to. Don’t think there is any chain, it is all locks.

Drove back passed the lock to check out the houseboat moorings under the two bridges.

Back passed the old ferry crossing. The ferryman’s house is for sale and needing a lot of work.

Up the hill to the main road where the roadhouse was selling diesel for 107.9 and unleaded for 116.9 – haven’t seen that for a while. Penny had put on FB that she just paid 99.9 for diesel on their way to Dunolly.

Turned off onto the old road to walk across the old bridge which was opened in 1964.

Walking the Line!!

Great view downstream over the weir. Our last lock on the River Murray.

Good view over the houseboats and main channel under the bridges.

The Murray Princess is just down from our van.

Back across the bridge. Old building built out of the yellow limestone.

Drove passed the van and under the bridge to the other side of the ferry crossing which is used as a boat ramp. Steve did some cleaning up near the canoe tree.

Looking across the weir to Blanchetown then along the cliff face to the ferry crossing.

Back to the van, 5pm 34 degrees. Certainly a stickier day – looks like a storm might be building in the distance. Happy hour time so we got a drink and walked back to the Murray Princess. Lucky there are plenty of big trees to wrap the ropes around. The passengers were bussed up to the winery nearby.

Lots of sandbags protecting the edge of the bank.

Fascinating how these trees grow even though half the trunk is dead.

Cooked tea then headed back to the cliffs hoping the sun will come through the clouds to give the cliffs some glow. Went down another street and found a great home-made penny farthing. Someone advertising his turf – doesn’t look like he has sold much around here as everyone’s yards are dirt. We have seen the artificial turf being used as mats for caravans.

This one is called ‘Bedrock’.

Walked down between to properties for a better view of the cliffs but the sun didn’t come out well enough.

Some of the houses are very nice with green lawns and others are just shacks in the dirt.

Rang Mum & Dad to tell them about their new holiday idea. Her and Val had been out at the pokies having wins again. Chatted with Jon. Still couldn’t get onto Dan, but Jon says he is good. Rang Kaylene for a chat too. The sun set behind the cliffs but created beautiful colours in the clouds.