Sat, 19th Mar, 2016 Emu Bay Campground, Kangaroo Island, SA (exploring Kingscote & Reeves Point)

14.4 degrees at 7am with clear blue sky. Put the heater on so we are nice and comfortable for breakfast.

Warmed up quickly so we had our cuppa overlooking the water.

Headed off sightseeing - first stop was Emu Bay Lavender. Lovely old home.

Lots of rows of different lavender varieties as we walked in. Didn’t realise there were so many types. They have 12 cultivars of English lavender.

Alba has a white flower.

Inside are lots of information about lavender and a great gift shop and café.

Tony & Maria started growing lavender in 2001 putting in 5 different varieties to start with. Their first harvest was in the summer of 2003/04 with a total of 1000 bunches harvested and later stripped by hand yielding approximately 13kg of dried lavender. The Farm now has 12 different varieties of Augustifolia and Intermedia Lavender over 1 hectare of land. Augustifolia is known for its relaxation and calming properties while Intermedia contains camphor which may act as a stimulant. With a total of 5500 producing lavenders they expanded in 2007/08 by planting another 3500 plants of the existing varieties. They now harvest 8000 bunches annually producing 125kg of dried stripped flower. Emu Bay Lavender oil production for 2009 to 2012 was approximately 5 to 8 litres.

Back on the road past the Discovery Lagoon where some guys are trying to tow their boat through the dry lagoon!!

A large salt lake but no information about whether they are using the salt from it.

Stopped at the shop to pick up some Pipis for bait. Found this great poster.

Parked near the jetty then headed off on the ‘Back in Time’ walk. The Aurora Ozone Hotel was first built in 1907 and was an elaborate structure with ornate features. It was completely destroyed by fire in 1919 and was rebuilt in 1920. Renovations and extensions have occurred over the years, the most recent in 2009.

The water is much calmer today in the bay.

The old gaol behind the old police station.

Walked around the police station and court house to the info board at the front.

Across the road was the Seymour House which was originally known as the Bleak House, built in 1898. It was a typical four roomed stone dwelling, with a bullnosed verandah, a fireplace in the kitchen and a laundry and outhouse out the back.

Behind the house was the Ice Works which began in 1934 when T Harry, a fisherman, opened a small plant to produce ice needed for the storage of fish. By 1951, it was a much larger facility, making 120 blocks daily, using 2 Ruston Hornsby engines and continued using this method till the 1990s.

Nearby was the Island Resort – originally the Carnarvon House. It was built around 1911-12 by E Priest, a Police Inspector who had a windfall in the lottery and came to Kingscote to fulfil his dream of building a tourist house here. The original holding of 5 acres featured a planted park-like area, tennis court and formal garden at the front. A paddock to the rear housed the cow, chickens and pigs, which supplied the kitchen with fresh produce. Vegetables, almonds and peaches were grown in the garden. Limestone ‘long drops’ were discreetly hidden behind large clumps of pampas grass. The house deteriorated and was purchased in 1935 by W & R Neighbour who changed its name to Woodleigh House. They revived the establishment and business flourished. During the war years, 1939-45, travel outside South Australia was forbidden and Kangaroo Island was the most exotic honeymoon destination for servicemen and their bridges. Woodleigh House accommodated many such couples, who spent the days walking, swimming and fishing and the evenings playing cards and parlour games, dancing, singing and romancing. The resort has undergone considerable alterations by several owners over the years.

The Royal Antediluvian Order of Buffaloes was built from stones carved by hand in 1928. Sounds like the Flintstones!!

Wandered along following the trail to the ones we looked at yesterday. Some other interesting bits out of the guide book. A two-storey wooden cottage belonged to a fellow named Strawbridge (presumably the Point we had lunch at when we first got here was named after him). He owned much of the land in the area and ran a livery stable. As cars became popular on the island, Strawbridge’s business suffered and he ran into financial strife. A timely fire burnt down his stables and he received an insurance payout. A second fire in one of his buggies also resulted in a payout. But in 1922, when one of his sheds also burnt down, the insurance company became suspicious and he was charged. Unwilling to face court, he dressed up in his riding suit, mounted his finest horse and galloped off into the distance. He was never seen again. His horse was found at Pennington Bay, some 40 km away. Several weeks later, his boot was found washed up on the beach.

The Kangaroo Island Courier started publishing in 1907. The current paper, The Islander, began production in 1967. The schoolroom was built in 1908 with the headmaster’s residence next door. A street nearby is named after the first headmaster, Mr Rofe. Former students who attended the school during the early 1940s remember air raid drills being conducted regularly. Each child wore a small calico bag around their neck, containing cotton wool wads and a cork. Upon hearing three blasts of the whistle, which meant ‘enemy overhead’, the children had to dive under their desks, push the cotton wool in their ears and clench the cork between their teeth. This was to counter the effect of any blast, but fortunately it was never put to the test.

The chancel of St Alban’s Anglican Church was built in 1884 as the first public school room in Kingscote. The Town Hall was having a revamp so we couldn’t get in to see the two woollen murals, which were handcrafted in 1986 to celebrate the 150^th anniversary of settlement on Kangaroo Island.

Drove around to Reeves Point picnic area for lunch. Chatted with some Canadians from Toronto who were our visiting their son attending the Melbourne University. They are having a flying visit – 4 days Melbourne, 4 days Kangaroo Island, 4 days Sydney then 4 days at Port Douglas.

The Settlement is on a hillslope that goes down to a point with the Bay of Shoals on one side and Nepean Bay on the other. The South Australian Company was formed in London with the purpose of colonising South Australia. On 27^th July, 1836, the ‘Duke of York’ anchored in Nepean Bay with 42 settlers aboard. Other ships followed and the settlement grew to a population of 300, with around 40 buildings. However, there proved to be a lack of good water and fertile soil, and the Company failing to gain title to the land, the settlement lasted less than 4 years. Although the majority of settlers relocated to Adelaide, there were a few brave pioneers who remained and formed the nucleus of the community today.

This cairn was constructed on the site of the first South Australian Post Office, using ‘Kangaroo’ brand bricks made at Penneshaw in 1880, in addition to some of the original English bricks. Looking over the Bay of Shoals.

Beside it was a plaque remembering the Reeves family.

Nearby was a well.

Walked out to the point where a bird hide was. On the map it says it is Beatrice Point so not sure which point was Reeves Point or it was just the name of the area. Seems someone names something then another comes along and changes the name, like Queenscliffe to Kingscote!!

The Landing info board was near the site of the Settlement’s first jetty which was constructed in 1836.

Captain Morgan held a prayer meeting here when they alighted from the ship.

Looking back to the jetty below the old Basalt Quarry. The basalt was firstly used as ballast for ships. From 1840-41 it was shipped to Adelaide for road building and was used to construct Old Port Road from Port Adelaide to the city.

Heading up the hillside is the original Mulberry tree planted in 1836 by the first settlers and it still bears fruit – none on at the moment though.

Life was hard back then.

Site of one of the houses – not sure why it is dug out – maybe someone looking for relics.

Headed up Flagstaff Hill – Rick found a couple of walking sticks.

On the rock formations around the flagpole were the first four ship’s names – Duke of York, Rapid, Lady Mary Pelham and John Pirie – that brought the first settlers here.

Great view over the Bay of Shoals – even on a bleak day. Glad we have our jumpers on!!

Lots of Rosemary plants around – first I thought it was a different type of Lavender and broke some off to sniff.

The shallow spit goes out a long way into Nepean Bay.

The Bullock Track – a rough track linked Kingscote with The Farm at Cygnet River, about 7 miles away. The SA Company acquired The Farm from its founder, Henry ‘Governor’ Wallen, who with his 3 aboriginal wives, arrived on the island 15 years before the first settlers of Reeves Point. He was ripped off by the Company who didn’t pay him well for the property or his goods.

The German immigrants lived in a row separate to the other settlers.

This faint sketch by George Angus in 1845 is of the house used by the manager (Samuel Stephens) of the South Australian Company. The house was built early in 1837 while the other settlers lived in tents or crude huts. By late 1837 the Company was contemplating leaving Reeves Point so they didn’t build any more permanent structures. Even at the time of greatest population in November 1838 there were 17 tents as well as the 42 dwellings, stores and workshops. Very few stone dwellings were erected here.

Across the road was the cemetery under some lovely big trees. Engravings on the ground as we enter the cemetery of those buried here.

Some sad stories.

Wonder why she was buried above ground.

The boys are waiting patiently.

The grave of Elizabeth Beare who was to be known as the first colonist when she was carried ashore in 1836 as a two year old. 

Mr Powell brought the Mulberry Tree planted in 1836.

Interesting story of another family from Prussia.

A plaque remembering those who died on their way to a new life in the settlement.

Up the road the park has been named after Captain Morgan.

Around to Hope Cottage Museum. Hope Cottage was built in 1859 by brothers Charles & Michael Calnan who arrived at Nepean Bay in the baroque ‘Africaine’ on 2^nd November, 1836. They were successful in the Victorian goldfields and outwitted bushrangers by hiding their gold in the hollowed out axle shaft of their wagon. Using the gold the brothers, aided by a ship’s carpenter, built three small cottages from local stone. They called the cottages Faith, Hope and Charity.

Sadly Faith was demolished in the early 1900s when it fell into disrepair. Charity was opened as a museum from 1965 to 1972 and is now a private residence. In 1972 the National Trust acquired Hope and established it as a museum.

A few stuff animals and birds.

Downstairs in the cellar was all kinds of cooking implements, bottles butter and cheese churns.

Timber splitting guns – they were filled with gunpower then hammered into a log or tree and the fuse lit.

Wonderful displays.

Brick stamp and brick made on Kangaroo Island in the early 1900s.

Pictures of the Queenscliffe Family Hotel which was destroyed by fire in 1918.

The story of the three cottages and the families here.

Back outside there are more sheds full of lots of displays. Horse Works – a belt ran from the large pulley on the end of the shafting and was used to drive a small chaffcutter, grain winnower, corn grinder, etc. The cogs and shafting were turned by one horse harnessed to the pole or two horses and poles if needed to drive a larger machine.

A bit more information about Yacca Gum from the grass tree. The yacca gum industry, once exported more than 2,500 tons annually from the Island. Much of the gum was exported to Germany and England for use in the manufacture of varnish and explosives.

This washing machine, complete with spin dryer, three-armed agitator and water pump, is one of the earliest electrically driven washing machines. It was made in the United States to a design patented in 1912.

Lots of other ones too.

Another room full of phones etc.

The next room was the Masonic Lodge Room of the Island Lodge No. 54 which closed in 2002 after serving the community for 94 years.

Continued through the sheds full of farming equipment. Mitchell Seed Drill might have been one of Rick’s relations!!

Wool and blacksmiths displays.

Another shed was full of transport items like the steam ship ‘Karatta’, built in 1907.

A model of the ‘Duke of York II’, a whaler, captained by Captain Morgan.

Found the others up the lighthouse. The light mechanism was built in 1872 by Chance Bros of Birmingham, England and was called the Sturt Light but commonly known at the Cape Willoughby Lighthouse from 1923 to 1974. It was removed and saved by the National Trust. A new ‘lighthouse’ was built here to house it.

Climbed up the spiral staircase outside to the viewing platform and the huge light.

Great view.

Another shed was full of tractors and next door was a garage.

An eucalyptus still.

Back to the front of Hope Cottage and the rose garden. Very good museum – neat and well displayed.

Looking back over Reeves Point Settlement site and out to Beatrice Point.

We had missed this first part of the information.

Looking down on the old Basalt Quarry and jetty.

Stopped for a cuppa on the cliff top near the Pioneers’ Memorial which was unveiled in 1936. The bronze kangaroos look towards Kangaroo Head where Matthew Flinders landed in 1802 and named the island ‘Kangaroo Island’.

A flock of pelicans flew overhead.

Looking across Nepean Bay with the mainland on the left and Dudley Peninsula of KI on the right.

Looking across the bay to Red Banks.

Headed back towards the van then turned off to travel around the edge of the Bay of Shoals. Lovely neat pastures.

Trying to get to the most northern point of Kangaroo Island – there is a lighthouse on North Cape. The road took us across the peninsula to Boxing Bay.

Bad hair day and look at those wrinkles!! On the most northern point.

Hey Malcolm – found a Sherwell Silo.

Turned off and headed east along another road trying to get to the lighthouse. Very rocky ground here.

A fence stopped us going any further.

Looking back to Red Banks.

Back to the edge of the Bay of Shoals – looking over to Reeves Point and Flagstaff Hill.

Looking north I noticed a building which I think is the lighthouse.

Back to the van then drove down onto the beach to see if we can catch a whiting with our pipis. Lovely long beach.

A guy was exercising his horse.

Stopped about the middle and threw out our lines near a sea grass patch. Zoomed in on the houses of Emu Bay. No fish.

Headed back to the van for dinner and to watch the V8 race I taped in Melbourne where they were racing as part of the Formula 1 Grand Prix – missed 2 races yesterday as I didn’t look up the telecast timetable.

Watched the news and weather where they said it was 8 degrees in Kingscote last night – no wonder we were cold.