2 Geckos Travelling Australia: Wed, 22nd May, 2024 (afternoon) Primitive Campground, Collarenebri to Coocoran Opalfield, Lightning Ridge, NSW (exploring Lightning Ridge)

Back out across the Naomi River to head up to Lightning Ridge following the Castlereagh Highway. Past a big goat farm. Then we spotted some emus.

Lunch at the Lightning Ridge Rest Area. Plaque about this being the site of the lightning strikes that killed the shepherd and sheep which is how the town got it’s name.

Across the road is Stanley the Emu. Created by artist, John Murray. VW for the body, bonnet for the beak and satellite dishes for the eyes.

Continued northward then turned right at the big cement mixer - what they use to clean the dirt off the rocks when they are looking for opal.

Headed into Lightning Ridge area (elevation 170m). We spotted a few opal mines - white piles and some machinery. Some have a lot of bigger machinery.

Stopped at the Information Centre to book the Opal Centre’s Spark video presentation for tomorrow night - will have to pull out the big coats as it is an open air show! Rang up and booked the full tour at the Chambers of the Black Hand for tomorrow morning - sculptures on the first level of the mine and then down to a mining tour on the second level. Took the ‘tourist’ miner photos at the fossicking area.

Drove down the main street then parked near Down to Earth Opals which has the Opal Centre next door. Di talked about the centre in her book so it feels like we know all about it.

We went into the small Opal Centre next door where the lovely lady said to take all the photos we would like. They are building a bigger facility out at 3 Mile but it is taking time to get done. Amazing sculptures, fossils and so much to look at and read.

We went next door to check out the opals and jewellery for sale. Amazing. The ladies were very helpful and informative. Met Vicki Bokros, owner and gifted jeweller designer. She explained the difference of the types of opal and gave me a pamphlet. She cleared up my confusion - black opal is not black but it is the black potch under it and that is only found here. I like the crystal ones the best actually but they are all beautiful. I would love to find my own piece though rather than buy one. They have a free ‘tour’ of the jewellery making process so we will come back for that at 3.30pm.

Continued down the street. Cooper’s Cottage was built in 1916 and just hanging in there. Even has the ‘out house’.

Found a great mural depicting the early days of the pioneering digging for opal.

Along to John Murray’s Art Gallery with lots of his art on the outside for us to enjoy and take photos of.

Down the side there was an ‘alley’ full of murals of other ‘artists’ too.

These were on the floor.

This is the book we just finished reading - she writes amazing stories woven around actual places in Australia. She did one called Rain Song, which was set around our friend’s place on the North Palmer River.

Inside it was ‘no cameras’ of course. There was three big canvas showing a scene of the open dirt road going over a cattle grid and you could just feel yourself going along it. If I had a house and a lot of money that would be one thing I would love - unfortunately it isn’t for sale! We wanted to get a sticker of the emus for the camper but they only had very big ones. In the end I got a fridge magnet.

Across the road was Steve’s cafe - though he can cook a good roast in the camp oven I wouldn’t say he was gourmet!

Wandered back to the main street and found some more of John’s fabulous art works.

He even features on the front of the Opal Cave shop with owners Sandy & Herman. Lots of different opal pieces and jewellery for sale inside and it was made to look like a cave too.

Another lovely old building that I hope is being restored rather than torn down.

Found a park to have a cuppa. As we drove back we found more artworks that he has only just completed, I am presuming the number after his name is the year he completed the paintings.

Another art work about Narren Lake which is further north from Lightning Ridge on the highway. It is not open to the public except on special open days.

Back to Down to Earth Opal for the jewellery tour. One group had gone in so we waited and chatted with the sales lady. I also read their website information about how Vicki came to Lightning Ridge and created this amazing store etc. Steve got a cuddle from the sculpture outside. He was impressed with the work involved in making it, and its shape of course.

The sales lady said people used to be able to ‘fossick’ on leases etc but with WP&HS etc it was too dangerous with mines about so the miners now bring in loads of their washed rocks for people to have a dig through in the area near the Information Centre. Recently a lady brought in a rock she cracked open from there and there was a few thousand dollars worth of opal in it - bet the miner wasn’t happy! The lady certainly was. She also showed us a beautiful carved crystal opal that was carved by another jeweller working it down to the shape of the opal rather than just grinding it down to the smooth surface. It turned out looking like the Tree of Life set in a circle - amazing.

Another fabulous one on display was found during the filming of one of the Outback Opal Hunter episodes. Vicki offered to buy the stone in natural state for $55,000. The miners declined and later sold it to a southern buyer for $167,000. The buyer left it with Vicki to be on permanent display - what a lovely gift to the town to be able to see it rather than it kept on one person’s safe.

Only 4 of us this tour so it was great. Vicki took us through the process of cleaning off the outer sandstone layer to reveal the opal then slowly and carefully bringing out the colours. They don’t put any lacquer on their pure opal pieces. She uses another ‘paste’ in the final polish that makes the surface shine. It is definitely a great shop to visit and there is something in there everyone’s budget.

Back to the truck and we headed back out of town to follow the Green Door Tour - I think these were put into place to stop tourists driving around through the mining areas and getting lost as there are tracks going every direction. Great map and there were plenty of car doors to follow.

Lots of interesting and quirky things to see along the way. Plenty of leases too.

The end is at the Coocoran Opalfield - where the first shaft was put down in 1902.

Someone has put up another sign to correct some history misinformation. Found another bonnet with the info about the Coocoran Opalfields around us.

As well as watching for mine holes there are lots of cactus plants everywhere.

Another feature is the Beer Can House, built in 1977. No information about it unfortunately. It is amazing - so much work involved in creating this house and a lot of drinking!

There were some round shafts - made by auger drill and the rectangular ones are hand dug.

Some people have created a Labyrinth that the kids were having fun in. It was made by 4 people and took 6 hours.

We are up on a hill and there is a body of water below us. Lots of piles of rocks too.

There was a dead tree that was painted white which was the focus of all the photographers especially with the brilliant blue sky behind it. The moon is nearly full and it has risen now.

Lots of people were here already and more arriving to watch the sunset.

A chap is working his lease at bit further over. Took a while but eventually a bucket of ore came up and was tipped into the truck then lowered back down into the shaft to be filled up again.

It was a beautiful sunset. Wandered around getting photos from different angles.

The moon has risen higher. Everyone is enjoying the views.

The chap came out of his mine and drove off. Steve was wandering over to have a chap as he drove off. This is what they mark their lease with and then mark the 4 corners of the 50x50m lease.