Tuesday 12 July 2022

Sat, 25th June, 2022 Bush camp by Pentecost River, Gibb River Road to Bush camp by Gibb River, Kalumburu Road, WA (Ellenbrae Station, etc)

6.30am 13.6 degrees but it warms up quickly as the sun shines in. 7.30 up to 20 degrees.

Lots of birds on the water this morning. A ‘family’ of cormorants were popping up and down in the shallow - like the parents were teaching them how to catch fish. There was an egret, magpie geese flew over, hawks sitting on the rocks and then two ibis wandered along in the shallows. Lots of little birds around us in the trees who are always tweeting etc.

Packed up then a chap stopped to take Steve up on his offer of help. He had broken the exhaust flange off the turbo and had used his friend’s vehicle to go back to El Questro to get it welded. Stations don’t do mechanical repairs, just tyres fuel etc. We suppose it is to do with liability etc. They had come past last night and Steve asked if they were ok as we had seen them working on it last night on the other side of the crossing. Steve commented about support brackets and he hoped it would be ok but this morning he decided to get Steve’s help and put a couple on. Steve had some steel that the chap used and was most grateful for Steve’s help to get them on their way again.

Said farewell to Nat and Simon and drove down onto the crossing.

We drove half way then I got out and walked the rest to get the iconic photo of the crossing with the Cockburn Range in the background. Morning is not the best time as the sun is there but it will do for us.


Across and up the dirt road to the sign stating we are now on Home Valley Station.

The facilities there are still closed. We had the phone plugged into the aerial and picked up reception as we neared the turn off into the homestead. Fran had sent through a photo of a letter Daniel received from his boss thanking him for all his devotion to his job and some money to have dinner on them. How wonderful - we are very proud of him too as he has always prided himself in doing quality work. Also wished Fran a happy birthday for tomorrow.

We drove up the hill (bitumen) to the lookout where we still had reception so I took a photo of the view over the Cockburn Range and sent it off to the kids and Erica. Rochelle had sent a photo of the birthday ‘party’ they girls gave her for her 50th before the end of term. I sent the view photo to her and we chatted back and forward by text. I sent Jenny one for her birthday too and her back about how she spent her day.


Chatted with a few other travellers while we had our cuppa and enjoyed the view. One couple we had drinks with in the Keep River National Park campground.

Fabulous view over the Pentecost River as it heads towards Wyndham where it joins the Durack River and flows into the West Arm.

Scanned around over the Cockburn Range. Last one looks like a castle with a great wall behind it.






Bitumen continues up the hill then around through a gap in the hills. Along the ridge then we headed down to the flats - nice hills in the distance.

Onto the dirt with light corrugations. Stopped at a rest area near the track into Bindoola Falls. Steve went for a walk to check then we drove down the rocky track to the info board. Cute little lizards everywhere.




Easy walk over the flat rocks to the big hole with resident croc who disappeared quickly as we peered down. Would be fabulous to see in the wet.




Wandered along the edge - lots of big slabs have fallen off so not walking too close to the edge just in case!






Walked over the flat rocks - the water flows down along that edge into the big pool. Upstream is the ‘cascade’ but as it wasn’t flowing we didn’t go on but we can see another lagoon up there.



Back on the road then onto bitumen as we go up the ‘jump-up’ on the other side of Bindoola Creek - only a few puddles of water visible behind the trees.


Onto the dirt road which is good by our standards.

A few vans heading east and the wind is blowing the dust away from us. Doing an average 60-65km/h with the cold tyre pressures as 35 front, 50 middle and 40 rear which come up another 5 once they are warmed up. It is a comfortable ride - no teeth chattering etc that others talk about. Steve has adopted the ‘Thumbs-up’ to go with our gecko stickers as vehicles pass us.


Down Gregory’s Jump-up on the bitumen.

Turned off onto a track to the site of the ruins of the Durack River homestead but there is a locked gate and sign saying no access to Jack’s Waterhole. Vine looks like a big snake going up the tree.


Only a bit of water in Bamboo Creek.


Climbing up Rollies Jump-up on the bitumen.

Bumpier corrugations for a bit then a smooth ride to the turn off to Karunjie Station. The road gets rougher again as we near the Durack River. Turned off into a parking area up on the high bank named ‘Top of the World’ on Wikicamps and stopped under a tree for lunch. Room enough for a few people to camp for the night.


Walked further down the slope for a better view down over the sandy area and waterhole of the Durack River.



Made lunch and was delighted that nothing has moved in the camper and no dust so all is good with our little world.

Decided to keep moving and drove down to the river crossing. A couple of little spots to park up by the river on a return trip. Big lagoon upstream too.



View from a crest as we near the turn off into Ellenbrae Station - famous for its scones. Bit of a muddy puddle as we head in.


We had noticed a trail of water along the track and found out it was coming from a van who we parked beside. The pipe had broken on the water tank so Steve got out his bits and pieces and helped the chap fix it.

Lovely lush gardens and green grass.




Lovely memorial to the two brothers who started the tourist vision of Ellenbrae. So sad, they were so young.


They used a lot of bits and pieces to make the furniture etc.



Headed into the ‘homestead’ and checked out the photo board.


Bit of history of the station and scones.



Ordered scones and a mango frappe. Unfortunately I won’t say they were the best we have had and the jam was bland and the mango a bit tasteless so I think the quality has gone with the change of ownership. Still lots of people come and there are campgrounds with a lagoon to have a dip in too.

Cute little wrens came into the feeder but no Gouldian ones here.

As we went through the puddle again I saw it was part of a creek which runs parellel to the GRR. I think is the one the chap is on the tractor going through to get their mail from the plane.

Rocky corrugation but not bad. Rolling up and down the hills which are all covered in rocks.

The trees are getting bigger and closer together so it looks nice and green.

Red dirt on the road now which makes ridge corrugations but still ok. Some people had told us this section was terrible - all depends what you are used to I suppose.

Stopped at the rest area at the junction of the GRR and the Kalumburu Road to read the info boards.


A few kilometres up to the actual Gibb River crossing. We went across to find a spot to camp but decided the other side was better where a couple of other campers were parked up.



Map of our travels today.

Pretty yellow flowers as we headed in.


Not the flattest ground if you want a view of the river but we found a spot but ended up with a very high climb up the steps. Steve put up a safety line just in case.



There are rosellas everywhere but I still have enough jam.

Got out the chairs and had a late cuppa.


Chatted with a couple from Perth doing a 5 weeks trip with their kids. There fuel tank had broken its brackets so he had strapped it up hoping to get it fixed at Drysdale Station. Again no mechanical work allowed so they will continue on with the straps, checking it constantly. They decided to spend the money on the flight and helicopter over the Mitchell Plateau and said it was fabulous but so expensive.

A few black cockatoos flew down for a drink then the ‘boys’ flashed their tails at the girls but they weren’t interested. He then flew up into the tree and started pulling the bark off.




Very picturesque.

Had our drinks watching the sunset colour through the trees but it got cold quickly so headed into the camper for the night.


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