Fri, 2nd Aug, 2024 Bush camp at ‘Jurassic Park Escarpment’, Central Arnhem Road to Barrapunta, Central Arnhem Road, NT

17 degrees min, overcast with a smoky haze.

The haze/fog has settled over the basin as we started to pack up.

Continued along the Central Arnhem Road passing a sign saying ‘Entering Conway Country’ which I figured out is Conway Station. There are a few freehold stations along this section. The cattle we saw in the basin must be theirs.

A few buffalo were on either side of the fence so we pulled up for a photo. They stood still posing for me. Then one lifted the fence and they ducked under it. Glen told us about the buffalo on Elsey Station that were getting through the fence. He put a game camera on the fence and watched as one buffalo would lift the wire to let the others through. He looked at the camera then and after that they didn’t come back. Glen took the camera away and then realised the buffalo knew and had started coming through the fence that way again. Much smarter than cattle.

Another herd further along with some cattle.

Across Conway Creek which was full of clear water.

Passed the station homestead off to the right.

Cattle and buffalo along the side of the road but they weren’t worried about us driving through.

Over another creek filled with water then past an open wetland with lots of birds. I spotted a tall black and white crane which I call a Jabiru - also known as black-necked stork. Unfortunately I missed getting a photo.

Rockier road this section.

Across Flying Fox Creek - probably a good sign not to camp here! Sandy with clear water and lots of tall paperbarks.

The Kaypok trees are in bloom with their bright yellow flower and no leaves.

The fog clouds have lifted at last.

Across another small creek with cattle on one side and buffalo. Crossing into Mountain Valley Station now.

Clear blue sky now. Left turn at Mainoru Station sign - homestead straight ahead. Hundreds of small ant hills.

Continued on to Mainoru Outstation Store and topped up with diesel @ $2.65/L. Chatted with the chap filling up the tanks - he said all these station are freehold. From here on we go onto the aboriginal land that we needed the permit to travel across. He said they are mustering with 3 helicopters at the moment. The wild buffalo are coming down from the north where it is too dry and they are herding them up too with the cattle.

Had a cuppa. Mike and Anne had gotten there first and chatted with a local ranger, Warren. He said to call into Weemol Community to have a dip in their thermal pool. He also said to go on to Barrapunta (past Bulman) and call in and see Kiwi and that we could camp there.

Continued on - crossed over Mainoru River.

Lots of huge piles of limestone rocks that look like someone had stacked them up out of a field, haha.

Spotted 3 donkeys then a buffalo having a nice soak in a lagoon. Pulled up but by the time I walked across he had started walking out.

Up and down rocky hills with lots of rocky sections on the track. Little hibiscus plants by the side of the road, covered in dust but the white flower must have just come out and is all clear and lovely.

Lots of bull dust holes too but nothing compared to what we used to go through into Lakefield NP.

Across a causeway with just enough water flowing over it to wet the tyres.

Onto bitumen then we turned off into Weemol Community - the usual well kept homes and vehicles! Stopped to check directions with one of the local ranger ladies. Over a grid then into an area of pandanus palms.

The track went around to a lovely grassed area by a beautiful clear pool. Got the togs on and in for a dip. Just warmish like Katherine thermal pool. Little fish hanging around my toes but they just wanted me to disturb the sand rather than nibble at my feet.

While I prepared lunch Steve walked around picking up the discarded rubbish and put it in the bin that was here.

Had lunch sitting by the water enjoying the sunshine then back in for another dip. Well I did at least.

Steve went for a wander along the creek and found that the spring started up just up from the main pool. Looking at the pandanus though it appears to go for a long way downstream.

Back through the community and onto the main road again. The pandanus continued on our left so the creek must spread out into a swamp area.

Not far up the road we drove through the edge of Bulman Community. The bitumen finished and we were back on the gravel again. Across Weemol Creek which was bright blue so that must have been the thermal pool water - didn’t get a photo.

Not far along was Wilton Creek which was brown flowing water.

Through flatter country now. No rocks, just light corrugations and some areas of soft bulldust.

Through a section that was recently burnt as there are still logs smouldering. Might be where the smoke haze came from.

Turn off into Barrapunta and met Kiwi. This used to be a community but families moved away when the kids wanted more of what they saw on the internet etc. Now the local families under Mimal Land Management are making it into an area to meet for meetings. They just had over 100 people here to sort out the yearly burn offs. Lovely rock-walled buildings - built in 1989 by some French people apparently. There are a few other besser block buildings as well.

Kiwi is hoping to offer bush camping and wanted our opinions on what he needs to do. Big job but over the years, I think he has been here about 5 years, he has cleaned out the buildings and fixed them up, got the water and power sorted. They have a thermal stream here which then flows down into a big lagoon and then flows into the Goyder River which flows into the Arafura Sea. He took us down to the stream where he has cleared an area and fenced it (to keep out the bullocks etc) for bush camping. The families said he should make it bigger so he has started to clear more area. The pool area needs to be bigger and cleaned out too.

We then wandered along the track where he has cleared more area - just needs sharp sticks removed etc. Further down the creek he showed us a croc trap that the pig hunter had put in - instead of a pig he got a 2m croc which by the snout we reckon is an estuarine croc. He wasn’t very happy and showed us his teeth and a lot of growling.

He is now waiting to find out what management wants to do with it. The trapped crocs can go to Darwin to a farm and then they send them across to Cairns to our croc farm near Edmonton. At the moment he has horse & donkey hunters here that process that meat for the crocs in the Darwin farm. They are set up down by the lagoon which is about 1km away. Great spot for birdwatchers too and there are Barra in the lagoon which is a bonus.

Sadly lots of cane toads here too but at least this one was dead.

Back to the main area and we set up camp. Got to 32 degrees today. Still windy.

Kiwi joined us for a drink after a while and we chatted some more about what is needed to make it a good camping area. He is a great story teller too. Kiwi said he came across to Australia when he was 19 as they were advertising all the jobs available. He still has a home in Napier but loves this life. The mozzies moved in so we headed indoors.

7.30 the wind stopped and it is still 30 degrees in the camper.