Mon, 21st May, 2018 Well 43 CSR to Well 46 CSR, WA (exploring CSR)

I woke up early but didn’t see any movement with the camels so went back to sleep. Heard them grunting a while later and realised the boys had three loaded already. They have a saddle on one that they can ride but they find it easier to walk in front of them.

Got up at 6 and wandered over to watch them load up Mrs Brown. More videos. She was named after a pub in Freo – they were hoping for free drinks because of that but no joy yet. There was no breeze blowing so it was quite comfortable.

Once she was down they tied her front legs to stop her from getting back up. They checked her over for rub marks etc. She grunted a bit but was quite happy. Took two videos of it all. On with the loaded specially made rack then other bits added and all tied together.

We went back to have some breakfast while they finished off and started on the last camel. 7am and the wind is picking up again. 16 degrees but now it feels like 10!!

Last bits to go in on the lead camel so they had to get her to sit down again. She wasn’t very co-operative but eventually she settled down and they got it all sorted. More videos and photos of each of the girls.

After a final check (made sure that clip was done up connecting the lead with the other 4 camels) they headed off. I videoed their departure then took a photo as they headed along the track.

We packed up and were on the track too by 7.45am – our earliest. Heading east on a long straight section on the flat between two sand ridges – a bit corrugated.

Turned north and straight over a high sand ridge which needed two attempts – got that on video. 2^nd gear low range for these ones because of the dug out holes in the track and the soft sand at the top.

Very long straight sections between the ridges then straight over them – no running alongside looking for lower bits up here. More videos – that was fun.

One was a double crested ridge and we got up the first one easily then slowly went up the other one for a look as it was quite bumpy and had a big pile of sand at the top. It had a big anthill off to the side so he couldn’t go up the edge to avoid the holes. I got out and he backed down for go so I videoed him coming up it.

A bit of wispy cloud appearing as we went over the last one then turned east on the flat between the ridges again to Well 44 – more corrugation.

Found the remains of the well – no sign other than the old mark on part of the trough. Lots of camel droppings from where the girls were tied up the other night. No water for the camels here.

Well 44 (43 feet, 13.1m)

Completely burnt out and now only a hole in the ground. Canning claimed this was the worst area for feed on the whole of the stock route.

Turned north and back over the sand ridges again. Another video of a very bumpy slow climb. Flat section where shrubs are closing in. Lots of anthills just off the side too, ready to take out a passing traveller if you go off the track too much.

Over a couple of lower ridges then wound our way through a spinifex plain to Pijallinga Claypan.

Turned west to Gravity Lakes. Around the edge of ironstone ridge with a nice view over another clay pan. Out of the wind so we stopped for a cuppa.

As we are elevated we have a good view across to Gravity Lakes – dry of course.

Over a couple of low ridges and onto Gravity Lake. The sign was on the north side again.

Looking across the lake to where we had our cuppa beneath the ridge.

Cloud band appearing on the horizon to the west. Met the other end of the bypass road. Definitely no one has been using it.

Through more ‘whipping’ shrubs and spinifex on the flat.

Over a few soft low sand ridges and then over ironstone gravel and some more ironstone ridges to the next sand ridge climb. Long flat run with bypasses around the ironstone corrugated sections. Lower ridges and wide flat section till we reach Well 45. Big blue sign welcoming us to Halls Creek Shire.

Well 45 (28 feet, 8.5m)

This is another well Canning said had excellent water but is now totally unpalatable. Perhaps a well needs regular cleaning to maintain the water quality. A more direct track from 45 to 46 was built by a group under the leadership of Peter Vernon. It reduces the distance considerable.

 Not much left of this well but there was another shovel. Apparently the shovel at Well 43 wasn’t the boys so someone is leaving them behind. Nice camp spot here under the gums. 

A bit further on we stopped to check out the first wrecked vehicle of this north section of the CSR. This Jeep definitely went up in flames, rather than a fire went over it – too much spinifex caught under the vehicle and lit up from the heat on the exhaust pipe. So hot it melted the outer casing of the gearbox. Oops. Now it is a visitors’ board – looking at the dates it was prior to 2015.

Up and down low sand ridges and over spinifex and shrub covered plains. Through paperbark and red sand section into large clay pan covered in saltbush. Limestone sections across the track slowing us down. Through sections of grass, anthills and gumtrees. The spinifex took over the grass as we continue on this flat section of the CSR to Well 46.

As we drove in we spotted a vehicle near the well then the Nissan that Steve heard about and wanted to check for parts. Which we went to first to check out. All the good bits are gone – need a new radiator!!

Went over to chat with the other couple. They are from Perth and heading south. Just stopped here for lunch and a wash. They said the water is tainted. We told them what we have been over and about the flooding around Well 25. They said the sand ridges from now on are easy.

Took our Well photos and read the plaques.

Well 46 – Kuduarra (21 feet, 6.4m)

This well was restored by Peter Vernon’s CSR Road Construction Co in 1991. The well was built about 25 metres from the Kuduarra native soak. A track closer to the original stock route was built by Dave Moreton from Alice Springs who linked Well 46 to a seismic line running close to Well 47.

Lots of caramelised limestone rocks around or is it a type of agate like we saw at Norseman.

We decided to park over near the Nissan in the shade of a tree so I could do some blogging since it was only lunch time.

Our path on the CSR today.

Steve went over to the well and after he cleaned out the bucket pulled up lovely clean water. We had washing in the ‘machine’ so he gave them a rinse then hung them up – he is better at wringing them out though with this wind and heat it doesn’t take long for things to dry.

At 3pm the clouds have come over, 30 degrees. The other group from Sth Aust have come in and set up camp near where the other couple were. Steve went over to chat while I continued on my blog. Steve checked over the Nissan again and decided to pull out the universal joint for a spare.

The washing was dry so I put it away then we grabbed our drinks and joined the others. They were making a big fire and invited us to join them after dinner. The wind settled and it was a lovely temperature by our fire cooking dinner. Spotted a satellite and a slow falling star as the clouds have cleared overhead but were still hanging on the horizon. Went over to join the others and had a great evening chatting. One lady likes blogs so I gave her my card and two others had cards so when we get to SA we will give them a call. They said the German group is Otto’s and he is an arrogant chap. The other couple early said they passed him and he wouldn’t pull off the track.

9pm back to camp for our hot shower. They had their bird baths as soon as they pulled up. We like more luxury than that!!