Fri, 22nd April, 2022 Kimberley Coast Cruise, WA (Talbot Bay, Horizontal Falls, Cyclone Creek etc)

We woke up in Talbot Bay. The sun (sunrise 7.24am) was just climbing over the hill out our window.

I walked around the deck for a look. The entrance to the Horizontal Falls in the McLarty Range. This area was turned on its side so the ridges are the edges of different sandstones - Can’t remember the first one, Pentecost and the furtherest ridge is King Leopold sandstone. The two gaps are most likely creeks the cut through a joint or fault line, eroding away the softer siltstone. As the gap widened the tides would force water into the basins (flooded valleys) behind the gaps. As the tide movement is so vast when the water flows in and out it causes a wall which creates the ‘waterfall’ effect. We saw a tidal wall come down the Daly River years ago.

Slug Island - aptly named.

Unfortunately things have changed after a boat accident a few years back with another company so the zodiacs only go through the first falls which is the widest. We will go up and check out the 2^nd one. Some of the big boats still go up it but they have big engines though they have hit the wall edges on occasion. I thought we would all be going in the Xplorer so we could watch the others but that has changed too apparently. The seaplanes changed their landing site which goes across the entrance to the falls area so the ships have to sit further out like we are. Anyway we have our name down on the list to go on the zodiacs which will be a lot of fun. We are the 4^th group of 6 so we watched the others head off. We put our togs on expecting to get wet but they all came back dry.

Our turn. Had to hold on so no photos as we enter or through the first gap. Jamie was in the rescue zodiac taking photos as we passed through so will get those photos later on. We certainly felt the force of the water as the whirlpools grabbed us but our driver, Corey, was in good control. Although at the top we dipped towards the rock wall and a big whirlpool which took my breath away for a moment but then we popped out into the big open lake in between the two falls. At last I could take a photo - looking back to the first opening and around.

We bounced around in the water taking photos of the 2^nd gap/falls.

I took a video of the 2^nd falls. (I didn't realise I could upload videos - will have to go back in put in all the ones before - like climbing sand dunes on the Canning Stock Route).

Back to the first falls for another run. We went back down which was quick and fun then turned around and zoomed back up again and then down. I would have liked a few more goes but it was fun.

Back to the ship where we put our names down for another run which was great. A seaplane arrived. They go to the end and up Cyclone Creek to their base. Apparently they put it up there for the cyclone season and will bring it out into the bay soon. Then another one arrived. We were going to do this trip from Derby as they have a big boat with big engines but as Jamie says you are feeling the engines power not the power of the water like in the zodiac - which is very true.

The tide as dropped some more - low tide is at 11.39 but only 2.4m and high will be at 5.43pm (9.4m).

Clive and Rebecca were after us so I was able to take their photo.

Back in the zodiac for another run, this time with Dan. Selfie before we started off.

This zodiac is more wobbly so we leapt over one whirlpool as the boat crept like a caterpillar. Another exhilarating ride up the first falls.

The force of the water at the 2^nd falls was amazing as the tide drops.

Another look around before we headed back to the 1^st falls.

Down then back up and down again. Great fun, even Steve enjoyed it though he doesn’t like not being in control of the boat. 

The big boat from the seaplane group arrived but we didn’t wait to see them go through. That would have been fun.

Back on board we had a lovely morning tea. I checked out the moving map again and marked on the paper map where the falls were etc.

11.30am I went for a Bridge Tour while Steve did the Engine Room Tour. We had Jo who draws the route on maps which she said is going to stop soon and it will all be electronic. She went through all the different displays etc and answered all our questions (there was only 3 of us). Steve had a good time checking out the engines with Sarah. She started with the catering staff but liked to help out down below so they suggested she do her tickets which she is and is loving it.

Another lovely lunch. We are getting some exercise with the steps, going up and down and I am now doing more laps around the Promenade Deck to try and work off the delicious desserts and morning teas.

2pm we boarded the Xplorer for a scenic cruise up Cyclone Creek. This area is where the Kimberley plate merged back into the mainland - it was thought to be a separate land piece first. Hence all the twisted rocks and the three sandstone types exposed in the Horizontal Falls area.

Further along we found the base for the seaplanes etc.

Three boats zoomed around the corner - possibly fisherman from Derby. They can get fuel from the community near Koolan Island.

The creek narrows here so with the tide pushing we are in the whirlpools etc but this time in the Xplorer which gave Jesse a bit of practice as this was his first time dealing with them.

More twisted rocks and layers of river stone showing where an ancient water way once laid.

This bluff can be seen from the Gibb River Road - part of the McLarty Range. We will have to keep and eye out for it.

When we rounded the bend someone spotted this crocodile who was eyeing off a turtle. He would have been 3 metres long. He wasn’t worried as we motored past so we stopped and watched him for a while. He went under and then he popped up right beside the boat. I was busy pulling the lady back in front of me in case he lunged than taking a photo. Got the swirl afterwards. He popped up further over so we left him be. At least the turtle got away.

The creek narrowed with more mangroves. Fresh water flows into this creek from up on the plateau etc. We turned around and headed back - Jamie pointed out some Kimberley hibiscus that he spotted earlier.

A better photo of the narrow gap we came through before.

Drinks up on the Sundeck tonight before our BBQ dinner. Everyone agreed we should have been eating up here each night but after the sun had set. It was so lovely.

The sundeck is good but it is a bit hot and sunny - shame they didn’t have another cover over the front bit so it could be used more in the summer months. The BBQ was great and we sat upstairs watching the sun set. 

We have been having a great time with Graham & Brian and Peter & Diane at meal times as well as many others during breakfast and lunch like two chaps from Townsville who for the life of me I can’t remember their names even though we all wear our name tags. There are 3 WA couples who are great fun too but they tend to sit together so we mainly chat in the lounge when watching documentaries etc. 

As our meal was over early for once we stayed up on deck and watched the stars. 

We then went in to watch a documentary ‘Land of the Wandjina’ which was narrated by Leo McKern. Ian had a lot to do with it as he was working with NT National Parks then. 

Just as we walked outside we saw the crew peering over the edge on the deck below. There had been a heap of harmless sharks coming in to feed on the small fish that gathered because of the lights. Wish we had known.

9.30pm the ship is underway again heading to Iron Islands area which isn’t far away.