2 Geckos Travelling Australia: Sat, 1st Oct, 2016 Bush camp on Big Bell Mining lease, Cue to Garden Rock, E of Cue, WA (sightseeing)

7.30am 17 degrees, overcast and still windy, jeans and jumpers on as the wind is bitingly cold. Decided sightseeing would be better than detecting today so headed off to explore the ghost town of Big Bell.

It is 29km out of Cue but not that far from where we were camped. As we head in the old hotel stands out in the flat country side with a large tailings dump in the distance. The mine is still marked as active being worked by Big Bell Gold Operations under the Metals X Group.

In 1951 (its peak year) the Big Bell Mine had 470 men on the payroll and supported a town of well over 1000. There were 160 houses, a hotel, picture theatre and a dozen shops as well as 40 houses and 120 two-man huts on the mining leases. Although the first gold was found in 1903 by Messrs H Paton and W Smith, very little was done until Big Bell Mines Ltd – an operating company from the American Smelting and Refining Co – took over in 1936. In 14 years of actual operation from 1937 to Jan 1955 the mine produced 726,298 fine ounces of gold. Mine production was suspended during WW2 to free manpower for armed service and for production of munitions and food. Much of the mines treatment plant machinery was removed during this time ‘for war purposes’. The number of employees fell from 417 in 1941 to 15 in 1944. During the wartime closure, the township was largely deserted, as were many goldfields towns. Home were left standing as their owners had left them, with the Government providing a subsidy for maintenance. The Police Station closed and kangaroos, rabbits and stock roamed the streets. When the war ended the mine returned to full production till its closure in 1955. Houses in the town soon sold for as little as 60 pounds whilst the Big Bell Hotel changed hands for 3,500 pounds. In August 1955 there was a huge auction sale of 4000 lots of mining plant and equipment when the mine closed down.

Info guide says to park off the main road as haul trucks come through here though it seems all quiet today. Amazing to think of all the houses and people that used to call this town home – now there are only a few bits and pieces left.

The hotel certainly would have been majestic in its day.

Across the road was another sign about the street and the railway station that was the terminus of a spur line from the main railway in Cue.

Walked down beside the hotel to check out the township. Certainly was a big hotel.

Another sign at the site of the Palais Theatre. Only a bit of the foundation is left.

Across the road are other bits of foundations, the remains of a thatched/chicken wire cool room and the water tank in the distance.

The drinking fountain and the foundations of the septic/ablutions blocks are all that are left of the school.

The Catholic Church walls are still standing and looks like someone has been using it. There was even a mat at the front for Steve to wipe his feet on. They had hung a cross on the wall too.

Nothing left where the Convent School was as it was moved to Geraldton.

The Presbyterian Church according to the map though it looks more like a home with the fireplaces in the two rooms. They are built with timber flooring inside then concreted around the outside.

Next door only the outside slabs remain.

Back around to the back of the hotel where the ice works was. Obviously it wasn’t removed as the timber and roofing are all on the ground. Lots of old cooling pipes are piled up nearby.

Wandered in and around the old hotel. Like the houses inside was timber flooring with concrete on the outside.

In the main area the walls were covered with brick tiles though it appears they have been pulled off to use elsewhere.

The main entrance, upstairs and the double fireplaces with fancy brickwork.

The hotel was known to have the longest bar in Australia which I think would have been in this room as the cellar is below.

Very bright wildflowers.

Warmed up enough after a cuppa to take off our jumpers!! Continued along the wide graded road through flat country with mulga-like scrub. Another 20km out to Walga Rock which is the 2^nd largest monolith in Australia, being 5km in diameter and 1.5km long.

Eventually we got to a gate to enter the site. It is aboriginally significant so no camping allowed. Through another gate to go to the 60m long overhang which the brochure states there is the largest gallery of hand paintings in the Murchison (and some say in WA).

The main one being a white ochre depiction of a sailing ship which creates much discussion as it is 325km from the coast. Some say it is script underneath but I reckon it is waves – certainly wasn’t done by the aborigines as it is too exact. Could be many reasons it is here – local pastoralist decided to add their own drawing or was it the early Dutch explorers though I didn’t think they came inland. As we had seen the etchings by the landowners up near Marble Bar etch them names and dates over the aboriginal etchings there it shows that it could have been added anytime.

Certainly wasn’t the best art we have seen – mostly squiggles.

Heard some voices then saw people up on the rock.

It was still blowing a gale so on with our jumpers and up we went – hope I get down again as it is bringing back bad memories of Ayres Rock!! It was a good surface to walk on.

Passed a rock pool where the birds where busy singing in the trees.

I kept moving and left Steve behind as I wanted to get to the flatter bit up top so I didn’t feel like I was going to roll down!!

Looking left to the longer walk to the other end of the rock and the short walk to other end where a small cairn is.

Great view over to another big rock. Looking on the Hema there are heaps of ‘rocks’ in the area.

Lots of big rocks on top here being shaped by the wind and rain.

Headed along the top to the longer section where we found two cairns. Of course had to add another rock. Steve got carried away with the size of his though he ended up rearranging it so it stayed on top.

Selfie time though when I look back at the photos I seem to have a lot more wrinkles then I see in the mirror!!

The next cairn got a rock and a stick.

View looking over the longest section of the rock then over the flat land to the end of the rock.

More wildflowers up here too.

Walked across to the other side for a different view angle.

A balancing rock.

Easy walking up here though the wind is still trying to blow us off our feet.

Walking to the other end, looking down on the overhang art area.

Lots of little pools that are dry now but some are full of flowers.

This cairn isn’t as big but we added a rock. The wind is whistling up over the rock and up the slope and nearly blowing us backwards.

View out the end then down over where we are parked.

Now for the downward trek. I just looked at my feet and walked right behind Steve. The wind was blowing us up the rock so we had that buffeting us upwards too.

Stopped at the rock pool to check out the little birds.

Drove around the rock – lots of big rocks looking like they are going to roll off at any time.

A long way round to the other end.

Then passed the striped bit we saw as we arrived earlier.

Back out through the gate and onto the road to head a further 60km down to a meteorite crater which is estimated to be about 50,000 years old. Mr Goanna was in no rush as he crossed the road in front of us. His mate up the road was obviously too slow as he is still on the road!!

Further along we drove in and checked out an old homestead and shearing shed. Just been abandoned and left to fall to pieces. Lots of corrugated iron to fly around in the strong wind so we didn’t stay long.

Off the main road and down a track 17km to the crater. It is the smallest one – at least I can get it all in one photograph!! Doesn’t look so interesting with the trees etc growing in it. Don’t know what the pole is about.

They say the impact came from the west side hence the pushed up rocks on the east side.

Around the back there a lots of smaller rocks scattered to the east.

The wind is still blowing and cold. No camping here either so we headed back. Took the straight road back passed Austin Downs Station so we called in to say hello and let them know we will be camping on the mining lease. Spoke to a chap who said ‘no camping’ and not much else. I asked about the homestead and he said it was an old one – not very friendly at all. There are a lot of stations around this area that take in campers, vans etc on a Station Stay basis but I don’t think this guy would be one!!

Not sure where to go now as now we have asked it is a bit hard to camp on his pastoral lease. Heading back towards Cue we stopped to read this elaborate sign – another friendly place!! It is amazing though as we see these signs and nothing has been happening on the lease for years but as they have a 21 year lease and pay the bills they call the shots.

Spotted a chap detecting off in the bush so pulled up for a chat. He was just detecting anywhere, taking a chance, he is camped in the van park though. He has found a few bits. He said he had been camped on Austin Downs Station for 4 weeks before the pastoralist found him and he was very nice about asking him to leave.

Decided to camp the night on the other side of Cue at Garden Rock camp area (17km out). Passed a teddy bear tree.

Drove around the rock – flatter but still a distance around it. Found a spot and parked up. The sun had disappeared behind the rock but still had a while till it set.

I did some blog then headed up the rock to get a sunset photo. Unfortunately there was too much cloud in the west so no lovely colours tonight. It was a gentle slope up so easy walking.